How to Rebuild Crankbrothers Stamp 7 and 11 Pedals

I could be perfectly happy riding these pedals forever but there are some others I'm fond of as well. I'd like to get some silver ones because they have no colour to get scratched off - and they look dope.

The key to this task, aside from tools, is the Crankbrothers Stamp 7 and 11 refresh kit which costs 25 USD.

Step 1. Remove the two 2.5mm hex head bolts that hold the bearing retainer in place.

Step 2. Once both bolts are removed you can pull the axle out of the pedal.

Step 3. Remove the bolt covering the grease port with a no. 1 Philips. Note - while this bolt is small, it may require a larger Philips head than you think because of the pitch of the slot, so check before you twist.

When I went to remove the bolt in the second pedal, the head had become damaged, likely due to a rock strike, and it was completely strippe I drilled it out a little and then reversed the direction of the drill, engaged it slowly with downward pressure, and it came out just fine.

Step 4. Use a pick or a straightened paper clip to push out the outer conical bushing and o-ring toward the opening. Push it as far as you can and then use a small screwdriver (or put a hook in your paperclip) to pull them out the axle hole. Don't forget the o-ring, which sits outboard of the bushing. I use a bent spoke, with a loop for a handle and a sharpened tip, as a pick for these tasks. (Note - those hands belong to Sebastian from Crankbrothers. I stole a screen grab because I forgot to get a shot of this. And yes, he should be the hand model.

c. Use a small flathead screwdriver to lever the bushings off the axle. They have a flange that is contained by the plate but they should pry away easily.

d. Remove the remaining outer seal.

The second axle was slightly corroded but it came clean and pretty after some Scotch Brite pad time. Some very fine sandpaper could also do the trick but apply only light pressure.

This set of bushings did not look pretty.

These are all the pieces you'll be replacing.

Step 7. Replace the inboard seal. Place it so the thicker portion is nearest the threads. When I removed mine they were both oriented the other way so this isn't likely mission critical.

Step 8. Place the bearing retainer. Just push it into place so the counter-sunk holes are oriented to the outside. I applied grease on the bearing surface here, quite lightly but I made sure to get full coverage.*

*Igus doesn't recommend lubrication because they say their polymers are embedded with PFAS and that lubrication could cause binding. (Future IGUS bushings will be PFAS/PTFE-free apparently). My pedals were indeed a little tight after I rebuilt them but I'm confident that they will spin fine after a ride or two.

Step 9 a. Replace the outboard bushings. This photo makes this look awkward (a specialty of mine) but it's not bad at all. You just need to snap the two halves into place. They have a collar that extends into the hole in the bearing retainer plate which needs to be inserted first. Then just snap them into the bearing recess.

1. 1. Replace the o-ring that holds the bushings in place.

Step 10. Install outer bushing. This simply slides on the end of the spindle. Apply a thin layer grease to the bearing surface first.

Step 11. Apply some grease to the outside of the outboard conical bushing and then place the small, thick o-ring on the end, using the grease to hold it in place.

Step 12. Slide the axle into place until the bearing retainer is flush with the pedal body. If this is difficult, your o-ring may be misaligned or the old one may still be inside.

Step 13. Install new bolts to hold the bearing retainer in place. These came with thread locker already applied so you should be able to skip that step. Tighten to 5Nm, or if you have experience with fittings on your bike, use your own judgement. These have never come loose on me.

Step 14. Install the grease port bolt. This also has thread locker applied so don't be overzealous with your torque. Philips head bolts are very easily stripped. Crankbrothers says 0.5Nm.

This attempt to cut the slot in the middle wasn't very successful but I had enough material on the narrow side to turn the fitting without it peeling off but this is a fine balance.

The best method I have found, assuming the head of your pin isn't flush with the pedal body, is to use a small hacksaw. Mine is called the Close Quarters Hacksaw and it's a very useful tool. It comes with a blade but after that you can cut a portion of a full blade to replace it. You can use a full size hacksaw but you'll probably have to put your pedal in a vice because you'll be using both hands on the saw.

Apply some solid downward pressure on the screwdriver to ensure it doesn't strip your slot.

Literally good as new.

This feels like winning the lottery when everything works out. I have been harping on companies to include a few spare pins with their often expensive pedals (these are 180 USD) but few do so. Crankbrothers sells complete sets of pins in seven colours and either 10 or 11mm length for 12 USD. My preference is longer pins when possible but be aware they will be more prone to rock strikes and damage or shearing. I haven't yet ripped a pin out of a Crankbrothers pedal or damaged any threads.

Now you are ready to go and enjoy the invisible internal beauty of your beaten up pedals. Below I have added Crankbrothers' excellent video of this process.

Below you'll find an excellent video on this topic by our friend Sebastien Salvant.

Crankbrothers Stamp 7 and 11 Refresh Kit