XXX_er profile

Back in the day I met a certain local character at a demo so i asked buddy where he was making his bikes and it was Taiwan so why not Canada?

He told me Taiwan is where its at cuz the best welders are there the best factories are there, he can hop on a bike and ride up the street a few KM to find components or tubing factories or anything he needs ... its all right there  

and the beach was at the other end of the street

the guy who told me this^^ was a bike tourer who had done 8000km in AK & northern BC  he was on a bike with a der and his partner was on a Roloff ... said you tell coasting down hills

looks great but I wonder what compromises in chainstay length/placement there would be in the BB area that were eliminated by going with 1x ?  Also someone mentioned drag going down hill, I've been told a Roloff hub will have noticable drag coasting downhill compared to a traditional der setup?

yeah I looked at the Switch infinity path of movement on line and then the R3ACT thinking i had the answer but while it is a moving pivot I'm thinking so do the other VPP  ... another thing I don't understand along with religion 

yeah I read about the water bottle thing all the time and I think its just one guy making many posts

It looks to me like a single pivot with a main pivot that moves which reminds me of the Yeti Switch Infinity system SO its an obvious comparison ?

are the lakes uniformly wide everywhere ? I need a wide forefoot but a narrow heel & instep which has been up till now specialized shoes

I should say I was holding the bike up by the pedal when i gave it a tap with the hammer and it came easy but a  self extracting kit sounds like a good idea so where do you get them ?

Just like derailleurs and derailleur hangers there is no way to quantify how hard you hit something before it broke ... anecdotal

Yeti put that crank on their cheapest (a relative term) 5.5 sb and I like them, I went to a 28T ring so I had to pull the crank, my old crank puller was broken so I put an 11mm socket in the hole gave it a tap with the hammer and  bob's yer uncle

I was expecting yet another another anti- cannondale rant

just steal some trucks ... ezee peezy

Anybody trys to get one serviced the shops will be checking those S/Ns pretty much all the thief can do is strip the bikes for parts and toss the frames

its linked to the water proof shorts thread, wearing too many layers and overheating yer junk

https://cyclingmagazine.ca/mtb/160-rocky-mountain-bikes-stolen/

don't buy a hot bike

https://cyclingmagazine.ca/mtb/160-rocky-mountain-bikes-stolen/

don't buy one

Posted by: andy-eunson

So I’ve been using the Revgrips for a couple weeks now. I’ve not been riding very hard due to a dislocated finger and the fear that if i crash on it and damage myself again it will be embarrassing to tell the doctor. Anyway, I didn’t notice any real difference using the grips. They feel the same as any other normal lockon.  I thought maybe it is one of those things where the difference is noted when you go back to the standard stuff. Nope. Rode my other bike today and I didn’t notice anything. Would not buy again. My elbows still hurt a bit but partly from changing the summer tires to snows last week.

try ductaping the dislocated finger to an adjacent finger

Posted by: tungsten

So after tearing down, cleaning and lubing the entire lower end of the bike the creak only went away after liberally greasing the seatpost and tightening the clamp slightly. lulz........

I had a squeaky Fox seat post on my Yeti, i knew it was the seat cuz if you pedal sitting down it squeaks, but if you stand up the noise stops, my son had the exact same squeak on his Yeti, i tried grease, tried wax based chain lube, tried a bit of teflon pipe thread tape but nothing worked to completely stop the squeaks.

Finally we tried the carbon fiber paste which eliminated the squeaks entirely

IME you wana use CF paste on any CF part and apparently it works well on non CF parts

sometimes you can fix that kind of thing with a  loctite sleeve and bearing retaining product

it is loctite  green but there are 2 kinds of green one that seeps into already fastened threads and one that will hold bearings and sleeves and requirs heat to undo

a train mechanic told me they used it on Locomotives and so I used some to fix  squeaking RF  cranks on a square taper back in the day

A mechanic at another store and I and another guy at my  shop spent a bunch of time on a bike for a clicking noise, it  turned  out to be a SLIGHTLY loose rear quick release  ...  so IME it could be ANYTHING

something I learned after a lot of phucking around with a noisy seatpost on the Yeti is that you MUST use carbon paste on a carbon frame

I heard carbon paste is also good for any thing that creaks