velocipedestrian profile

Does the copy writer know what tractability means, or are they using it as 'creating traction'?

Those Germans have a nice piece which pleasantly rubbed my confirmation bias about deleting strava.

I'd found myself feeling disappointed if a ride that felt good was slower than expected. Unless you're racing, how fast you went is a shitty metric for a good ride. 

I'm all about the smiles-per-hour again since removing the virtual race from my fun.

"where it matters" stirs a memory of [Gracia?] advocating maximum stiffness between the stem and cranks, then tapering out to give flex at the tyre contacts.

Stiff where you're adding power & inputs, flex for traction.

Provided folks can hear the people around them I don't mind.

I do get grumpy at artificially deaf trail users (I've been unheard shouting from ~4m back) and those who decide what others hear by inflicting their Bluetooth speaker on the world.

Thanks for the details.

Does 'closest thing' still mean 'less grippy'? As a long time clipper, I want all of the grip when on flats, but would like a stiffer sole than the freerider.

Huh, my partners older Lapierre Spicy has that. Hadn't thought about it from the sprung / unsprung angle before.

Moto style levers? Seems like a good place to cross over.

Still loving mine.

I have some changes to make before it's really suitable to ride.

Different rear tyre, zee shifter + derailleur, 36 to coil Lyrik. These were the more period appropriate parts I had around.

Obviously the giant Protaper.

Posted by: RAHrider

Posted by: velocipedestrian

I have no oil slick parts, but am a big fan of being able to choose funky colours.

My F purple, R orange hubs, red rims, green bar and pedals, and mismatch orange body / blue face stem mean I only diss 'murdered out' bikes. Any other scheme you choose won't offend me.

Is there a picture of this bike somewhere I can see? Sounds either awesome, interesting or both.

I've been meaning to post it in the FS thread, but want to get my min-max / followers of DrewM thoughts in order. I'll hurry up.

Posted by: syncro

Posted by: fartymarty

Is anyone on here still running 10 speed?

My current setup is full 10 speed, XT shifter, HG95 chains (rotating 3), Zee mech (11-36), Shimano HG500 11-42 cassette, Works Chainring or similar.  I run this on my HT and FS bike (Starling Murmur).  Even though the Zee is only rated to 36t it works fine on my frame for 42.

I'm running 11-42 slx 10spd with a 32 up front on one bike. I thought about getting an 11-46 Sunrace and adding a One-up RAD cage to avoid getting a new RD but sat on it too long and they're no longer available - even used. With the proliferation of 11/12 speed systems and pie plate sized cassettes it's unfortunately no longer an option, an inexpensive one to boot, to gain gearing. TBH tho, for the riding around here the 11-42 range is totally fine unless I let my fitness lag. I still like Andrew's idea of wide range 8 or 5 speed as that's all the gears that are really needed. But I guess that doesn't keep riders separated from their cash and the bike companies happy so I doubt we'll ever see it.

Wolf Tooth still stock the goat link - makes my 10spd SLX derailleur play nice with 11-42, and would probably be the same with 46, given the amount of B screw thread remaining.

I have no oil slick parts, but am a big fan of being able to choose funky colours.

My F purple, R orange hubs, red rims, green bar and pedals, and mismatch orange body / blue face stem mean I only diss 'murdered out' bikes. Any other scheme you choose won't offend me.

Posted by: RAHrider

Posted by: heathen

1, Download Pro Bike Garage and sync it with your strava. It automatically tracks your service intervals and tells you when they are due.

This is amazing! Thanks.

Delete strava, then go back to manual logging.

Posted by: nobby

Posted by: UFO

Posted by: mammal

Whether bleeding the whole system or just doing the lever, it takes a LONG TIME to make sure all the air is out of the lever. 

This.

When refilling the front system top down and then bottom up, and I'm so sure that all the air has bubbled up into the funnel, on more than one occasion I've still had the brake lever go spongy overnight after hanging the bike on the wall front wheel up

I also have found the wandering bite point just means my brakes need a bleed. I find if you use a strap of some sort, like a oneup gear strap or zap strap, to hold the brake lever fully engaged for about an hour before the bleed it speeds the process up quite a bit. I think I got that tip from a WC DH team video at some point, they guy said "it brings the bubbles to the lever". While the strap is engaged I also orient the bike on my stand to ensure the calliper is more directly below the lever. Then I find the bleed is quicker.

Yeah, tieing the lever closed and brake vertical is useful. The increase in pressure shrinks the bubbles, which lets them rise more easily.

Posted by: T-mack

Posted by: heathen

Posted by: RAHrider

Posted by: Vikb

Posted by: heathen

What are these mystical creatures?

Does anyone know if the shimano wandering bite point is solved by replacing the caliper with a magura?

That was my exact thought when I saw it.

All a caliper is mechanically is a piston that slides inside a square profile O-ring. The retraction is just the O-ring going from a Parellolgram back to square which pulls the pistons back inside the caliper. The wandering bite point couldn't really be anything to do with the caliper. My theory is that when you bleed a shimano system, you push fluid up the system into the cup on the master, well you're essentially taking all of that grime from the caliper and pushing it back through the system which gums up the seals in the lever body. I bet the spring is trying to push the plunger back when you release the lever but the seals are slow to move so when you go pull again, the pads are still closer to the rotor than they should be causing inconsistent feel.

The 'official' shimano bleed is top down, so the gunge is more likely to collect in the caliper. 

I've heard the theory that the servo-wave amplifies any bubble issues, as the lever has to move further. But the m9000 race lever mentioned doesn't have it, so no more clever thoughts.

Posted by: RAHrider

Posted by: velocipedestrian

[how] does the dropper get triggered?

The dropper is on there because it is the only 27.2 post I had in my parts bin - and it's a thompson. It is external cable routing so you can just reach down and trigger it. Wolf tooth has an adapter for 31.8 bars that I considered buying but I figured I'd see how often I use it before buying an over priced bar clamp. Turns out I don't actually like descending with the seat down on this bike; I think you need side knobs in order to lay a bike down into a corner.

Ah, gotcha. Nice. 

(inner pedant shrieks that there's no P in Thomson)

[how] does the dropper get triggered?

DMR v-twin when running clips. Similar dimensions to a Mallet, with the SPD interface.

When I find a shoe

/that I'm willing to pay for

/with a deep enough cleat pocket that the tread can rest on the pins like a flat 

/and a soft enough shank to feel like a flat shoe 

I will have found the grail - a combo that feels like flats, but never blows a foot. As per Hepcat.