I noticed that the mechanic has cut off the rubberized coating on some of the Wera hex keys. Sometimes he leaves a band near the elbow and some times it's near the tip of the long end. Would he mind sharing the reason for this? Is it just to toss them on the magnet more easily?
How well does the hose quick disconnect feature work?
What a great deal. Interesting timing, as Push is now performing cartridge-only tuning, though you have to send it in. What do you guys think about the need for custom rebound tunes? It seems like those who are playing with tokens might want to adjust HSR as well?
It's never been harder to sell used bikes than it is now.
Look at the third pic from the end. Does anyone else see the non-drive side side knobs tearing at the trailing end?
I wonder if the future is a lighter tubeless procore type system (only the blue part) with some UST type bead locking into an inner channel on the rim. I'll wait and let others be the guinea pig on the first gen stuff.
I think next time I have a warranty issue, I'll lie and say I'm writing a review for a bike website, ask them to overnight it.
Word, they're falling off around the cleat interface for me.
So what's the price?
I've noticed that after doing a slider service, it can be difficult to bottom out (with no tokens) sometimes. Most recently, I tried letting all the air out of the air spring, and fully compressed the fork before I put the foot nuts on, and now I can bottom the fork more easily.
I've been riding my 160mm pike for about 6 months now, and in answer to you
1) Within 3 months i noticed a knock coming from the damper side when the fork was unweighted. If you put your finger between the arch and stanchion you can feel the slop. When the fork is weighted beyond 10% sag, this goes away. I do not notice binding or harshness in bermmed corners.
2) The csu started creaking in the same amount of time. If you pull the wheel, flip the bike on it's back, and grab your choice of legs you can feel it clicking at the top of the stanchion where it meets the crown (both legs). To be fair, I've had this issue with Lyriks and Float 180's, and it's just the reality of modern single crown long travel forks, imo. While mildly irritating, I love it, as I wait until near the end of the warranty period and send it back, and am rewarded with a brand new fork after two seasons.
I found there is an optimal rotation for the boot. If you align the seems of where the two pieces of the boot were bonded together so that they line up along the long axis of the bike, the boot will compress more easily.
If GD could 1) make a prettier boot and 2) make a more ergo lever, these posts would be very competitive. A light neoprene sock would be awesome. Maybe widen the grooves where the ends of the boot snap in currently, enough to zip tie the sock on.
Any chance your friend who modified the DOSS lever would be willing to post a tutorial? That sounds ideal!