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illomatic's posts

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Nov. 12, 2005, 2:44 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Recoemmend best Island wheel builder

Troy at Pro City Cycles in Vic is your man

Where's Pro City? They're not in the phonebook -at least not the yellow pages.

Nov. 12, 2005, 8:56 a.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Recoemmend best Island wheel builder

32 hole hubs, but how many spokes per wheel? I use 20 front, 24 rear and haven't had any trueness problems on my road bike. I weigh 165.

I have been thinking about buying a shimano WH-R550 or WH-R560 set for $150 off ebay to use as a 'beater' set…

I'm gonna go full 32 frnt and rear. Weight isn't that much greater vs 20 spokes per wheel and a hell of a lot stronger.

I've heard good things about the 550's - somewhat heavy but durable and inexpensive. A good winter set.

Nov. 12, 2005, 8:54 a.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Recoemmend best Island wheel builder

You might want to consider a stronger spoke for the rear drive side spokes. That's the way I build my wheels, but see what your builder says.

Yeah I'll probably go dble butted drive, 14/17 non-drive.

Nov. 11, 2005, 10:57 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Recoemmend best Island wheel builder

Thanks boys.

My only question now is whether Lorien has any experience building road wheels and whther or not he deals Campagnolo.

My build will likely be as follows:

Campagnolo Record hubs (32 hole)
DT 14/17 Spokes laced 3X front, Radial/3X rear
Mavic Open Pro CD rims

Tough and light

Nov. 10, 2005, 11:10 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Recoemmend best Island wheel builder

I'm looking to have some wheels buit up in the New Year for now I'm just buying parts. The shop last shop I had build wheels for me has closed. Who builds a good wheel in Victoria or thereabouts?

It's gonna be a cough road cough wheelset, but that shouldn't matter.

Sept. 2, 2005, 10:20 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Paying Taxes and Duty when buying online???

Funny you should ask. I just bought a jacket and vest totalling $366 CAN. upon arrival the UPS man handed me a COD slip for $166. The website mentioned nothing of the duty or brokerage fees involved.

Brutal.

Most of the time the discount you get fron buying online is far less than the duty, tax etc associated with cross-border shipping.

Good luck.

Aug. 8, 2005, 7:23 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Road bike advice

Thanks SC Blur, but I'm picking up an Allez Elite. Probably best to buy new and get help from a shop as I'm just starting out.

Aug. 5, 2005, 5:52 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Road bike advice

Shop preference. I'm sure you'll adjust to either bike/components/wheels, but it's a serious drag to have to take your bike into an LBS that you hate. Unless you do all your own wrenching.

In that case I'll go with the Allez Elite. Snappier handling through corners anyways, which, considering I live around some very tight and twisty rounds could be really fun!

Thanks for all the advice - especially Sanrensho

Aug. 5, 2005, 5:24 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Road bike advice

Like I said, I'm new to road and don't know what's what in terms of component quality.

If wheels are the most important things, which one should I go for?

The Specialized is made of Columbus whereas the Cannondale frame is appranently very good.

Assuming both fit equally well, which bike is better? Should I overlook the slightly slower handling and crappier spec of the Cannondale in favour of its lightness and quickness up hills?

Aug. 5, 2005, 6:47 a.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Road bike advice

Another question:

The slope of the TT is different on both bikes. The Cannondale looks like a standard road bike and slopes down towards the headtube, but the Specialized slopes in the opposite way - towards the seatube - like a mountainbike.

What does this difference mean other than increased standover height on the Specialized?

Aug. 4, 2005, 10:27 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Road bike advice

Thanks for all the advice - keep it coming!

I guess I forgot some details. I am 5' 7" and will be riding for fitness two or three times a week for a couple hours at a time. I may get competative in the future, but I'm just starting out. I just don't want the bike to limit my progression.

I took the time today to try a number of frame sizes and was fitted for a 52cm in both bikes. Both the Cannondale and the Specialized retail for about $1600. Slightly nicer component spec on the Allez Elite.

Of the two, the Cannondale had the best feel at slow speeds, but is slightly lazier at speed (more stable?) and harsher than the Specialized.

The major problems for me with the 'Dale are that it looks so much cheaper than the Specialized and the shop that sells 'Dales in my area are a bunch of twats whom I don't really want to deal with much.

Thoughts?

Aug. 4, 2005, 4:33 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Road bike advice

I'm looking at either the 2005 Allez Elite Double: http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=9356

or the 2005 Cannondale R700:
http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/05/cusa/model-5RR7D.html

I've ridden both but don't really feel confident picking one over the other. The spec of the Specialized is better and an all-around better looking package, but the frame of the Cannondale is much lighter and more lively.

For those of you on the board with some road-riding experience, which should I go for?

July 4, 2005, 11 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
grrr stupid drop off triples!!!!!!!!

i would suggest also going heavier, the rebound is damping is virtual non existant unless you go to heavier oil. And all this end stroke adjustments and blag blag, its the lowest model marz makes, its got air caps and thats it.

Sure, I've never ridden the DOT. Bump up the oil weight if the rebound is too fast.

Dante, it may be a lower-end model, but the end and beggining stroke can still be adjusted, just not externally. I was just trying to break it down for him so he knew what he was tuning by adjusting oil height and the like.

July 4, 2005, 9:44 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
grrr stupid drop off triples!!!!!!!!

As far as I know the air assist is only an small bump (beginning stroke) compression adjustment. Cranking it up will help some, but that's why your wrists are hurting.

What you really want to do is increase endstroke compression (bottom-out resistance).

Two options there:

1. Increase oil height. Add 5cc's (ml's) oil to eash leg until incrementally until youi aren't bottoming. Too much will limit your travel so be careful.

2. Heavier spring, though at 140lbs you shouldn't need them. Marzocchi ALWAYS sends their forks low in oil, probably to cut shipping costs.

Oh, and as for heavier oil, increasing oil weight will only effect rebound.

June 28, 2005, 9:03 p.m.
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Joined: Feb. 3, 2003
Pike floodgate valve hitting frame

Silly.

File down the knob princess.

agreed…unless you want to sell it soon :rolleyes:

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