sospeedy profile

“every crankset comes with a nice metal tool to install and remove the chainrings.”

My bike came from the manufacturer with SLX as OEM spec. Will I need a special/new tool to remove the chainring from the crank when the time comes? Or does it use some sort of pre-existing bike tool?

Thought I’d be happy with bearings on my new bike, and not having to service the bushings on my recently departed Rocky Mountain Altitude. But this has me reconsidering that thought! Thanks for the tips, which no doubt will be handy when I dive into bearing replacements in the future.

Ride Wrap that went on my Patrol this year had cut outs for the BB and seatstay drain holes.

Just checked my Patrol...it’s a good size, a 3 mm hex key fits in with room to spare. Seatstay holes are smaller but also work well when hoisting the bike onto its back wheel.

But the Strega has no apparent drain hole in the BB...and guess what came out of the seat tube when I flipped the bike over?? Great tip Andrew, thanks!

This sounds great. Can’t wait to read more about your prep for World Champs Tim! And the bike is neat too.

I’m currently installing a second kit from Ride Wrap. It is taking me a bit longer to install on a curvy frame, where a hair dryer comes in handy to help mold the wrap around some areas. Great service by Ride Wrap and product works as advertised .... can’t ask for more!

Hi Cam, for general aggressive riding the S2S, I’d be interested in your thoughts on the conventional 2.5/2.4 vs 2.6? I’ve never used 2.6...is there any real advantage?

Watch those little bottles of Stan’s... I, too, carried one. Finally, in a moment of need, I pulled out the bottle, gave it a good shake, and opened it up to find...a white congealed mass of latex, with only a bit of watery liquid left. Seems these things might have a limited shelf life!

That’s great, thanks Andrew! I was hoping someone would know. And hoping this is not a case of e13s update to “interface 2.0” doesn’t render the one I’ve had for about a year obsolete... I’d 

Ike to just replace the worn alu part, and keep using the steel part, rather than replace the whole thing.

While this kit isn’t for me, I do have an e13 cassette with the ‘old’ interface needing e13’s proprietary lock ring tool. It has worked well. But...the aluminum portion is finished and I need to replace it. Will a new aluminum half (with the new lockring interface)  fit with the old steel portion (which is still going strong)?

Thanks!