Hmmm. I should try some of these nipples. Sounds interesting. Do you guys get the DT Pro Head or the Squorx?
- Don't cheap out on spokes. Double butted high quality spokes will be stronger and easier to build with.
- I like the Pro Wheelbuilder calculator: https://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator
- tension comes first, then trueness. Ideally you have a perfectly tensioned wheel that is also perfectly round and true.
- If you have problems getting an even tension, think of spokes in pairs (the spokes that cross). Sometimes the leading is tight and the trailing is loose and by balancing them out you maintain trueness and fix your tension. Also think how tightening that one spoke will affect all the others.
- A good way to learn is to break it up into sections. If you have a 100mm front or 142mm rear, then try tensioning the drive side (if rear) or brake side (if a front wheel) to about 2/3 tension first, while only worrying about vertical truing (roundness). Then do the other side while only worrying about side to side truing. This breaks the steps up in your head and lets you only worry about one thing at a time. This method doesn't work as well with boost, but it depends on your hubs and how even the spoke tension is on each side (the more even it is, the less the method works).
- Over tighten 1/4 turn, then back turn 1/4 turn to minimize spoke wind up (e.g. if you want to make a 1/4 turn, turn it 1/2 way, then go back 1/4).
- Show us pictures afterwards.