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extraspecialandbitter's posts

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May 24, 2019, 11:39 a.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: BC XC tires

Last year I raced with 2.3 Minion DHFs front and rear... but I was on a single speed so rear wheel traction while standing was important.

This year I'm mechanical doping with everyone else and I've had a 2.6" Rekon on the back (which was pretty good at first, but I've flatted 3 times this year).  On Wednesday I realized it was bald and so I panic mounted a 2.6" Slaughter last night.  I'll let you know how it goes in the Nimby.  

The Slaughter is noticeably smaller than the Rekon.  2.41" vs. 2.54"

What tire did you end up choosing D_C_?   It would be interesting to compare our impressions with the damp weather.

April 30, 2019, 11:39 a.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: long travel wagon wheelers


Posted by: pedalhound

Interesting to hear about the Ripmo, that bike is very high on my list.

It might just have been my body not feeling happy with the medium Ripmo. Or it was the different offset fork. I don't know. It's definitely worth a demo though. It might work better for others.

April 30, 2019, 8:30 a.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: long travel wagon wheelers

So I'm looking at joining this long travel 29r band wagon.  The bike I got 2 years ago was that weird Tantrum bike and it's been super fun, but it bottoms out like a mofo.

Anyway, I'm one of those people that's stuck between sizes.  Mediums are a touch too small and Larges are a touch too big, however modern geometry mediums seem to fit like a dream.  So I'm looking at something with a longish reach.  It needs to be boost so I can use my hubs, and I don't want to support any company that uses $$$ to develop e-bikes.  I don't really care if it's carbon one way or another.

I demoed the Evil Offering and it was pretty magical.  I was instantly comfortable on it.  I could sort of feel the big wheels, but it was super fun at speed and still managed to handle some of the tighter stuff.  I was most surprised by how active the anti-squat was and it climbed really nicely.   I thought I needed to sell a kidney to buy one, but the tax man was greedy through 2018 and he owes me a lot of money now (hurray?).

I also demoed the Ibis Ripmo and it was quite the opposite.  The numbers looked right, but it felt super upright and a little twitchy.  I've come to conclude that I actually know nothing about geometry and I should ask strangers on the internet about the subject.

Anything else I should be looking at?

Sept. 10, 2018, 1:46 p.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: Spokes and wheelbuilding

Hmmm.  I should try some of these nipples.   Sounds interesting.  Do you guys get the DT Pro Head or the Squorx?

Mike-E: 
- Don't cheap out on spokes.  Double butted high quality spokes will be stronger and easier to build with.

- I like the Pro Wheelbuilder calculator: https://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator 

- tension comes first, then trueness.  Ideally you have a perfectly tensioned wheel that is also perfectly round and true.

- If you have problems getting an even tension, think of spokes in pairs (the spokes that cross).  Sometimes the leading is tight and the trailing is loose and by balancing them out you maintain trueness and fix your tension.  Also think how tightening that one spoke will affect all the others.

- A good way to learn is to break it up into sections.  If you have a 100mm front or 142mm rear, then try tensioning the drive side (if rear) or brake side (if a front wheel) to about 2/3 tension first, while only worrying about vertical truing (roundness).  Then do the other side while only worrying about side to side truing.  This breaks the steps up in your head and lets you only worry about one thing at a time.  This method doesn't work as well with boost, but it depends on your hubs and how even the spoke tension is on each side (the more even it is, the less the method works).

- Over tighten 1/4 turn, then back turn 1/4 turn to minimize spoke wind up (e.g. if you want to make a 1/4 turn, turn it 1/2 way, then go back 1/4).

- Show us pictures afterwards.

Aug. 30, 2018, 3:19 p.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: Naked Bikes

Photo

Aug. 30, 2018, 3:15 p.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: Naked Bikes

Nice. I was there the day after you.  It was pretty smokey though.  Did you join the Sunday ride?

But ya. I bought my partner a Ti hardtail from Sam.  I personally would get steel, but she loves the Ti.  Steel is easier to modify later on as well.  Titanium is really hard to modify / fix later on, but it should last for a very long time.   Assuming it's not too big of a change, Sam has modified bikes he sold long ago to work with modern standards.

I would say that if you're thinking about it you should send them an e-mail and stop by the next time you're on Quadra (bring beer). 

Also, Sam was also doing "Super Boost Plus" before it was a thing, just so he could get the shortest possible chainstays.

Aug. 30, 2018, 1:08 p.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: NSMB - 2018 - Hardtail Thread

So I updated my Single Speed calculator.  Now you get all possible gear ratios in a nice table. 

https://goo.gl/forms/uD9uy0h4SZghqlF33

Something I learned.  The Chromag Primer and Rootdown BA have a magic gear.  30-19 shouldn't even require a chain tensioner.  Less than 1mm of tensioning required (0.66 mm).  This also gives you a pretty nice gear ratio (1.58).  Somebody want to test this out?  Make sure my math is accurate.  If you're in North Van / the Sea to Sky I might even lend you a 19 tooth cog.

June 13, 2018, 10:48 a.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: NSMB - 2018 - Hardtail Thread

Posted by: TheWhiz

Thanks for the information. Very tempting. I currently run a 30 tooth narrow wide but would probably go 32 non-narrow wide (so I can run a half-link if necessary) and start with 19 or 20 tooth cog (on my 29er.)

Cheers.

I don't think you can run a half link on a narrow wide. The link itself is too skinny. And it would mess the timing of the chain up since you would have an odd number of links. So every 2nd revolution your narrow would attempt to mate to your wide and vice versa.

June 13, 2018, 9:06 a.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: NSMB - 2018 - Hardtail Thread

Posted by: TheWhiz

That's awesome. Dumb question for you, is it hard to set up the Stinger to tension the chain? I have a rootdown and sometimes think I would like to try it as a singlespeed. I have another bike I converted to ss with a dmr kit (it's not too bad) but this looks like it would be cleaner and perhaps hold better (as the iscg has 3 holes instead of something that just attaches to the derailleur hanger.) Is installing the stinger and setting up the tension for the chain as easy as I would think it is?

It was pretty easy. 3 screws. Most chain rings don't seem to interfere with the screw holes.

I personally liked the Stinger because it was nice and clean looking.

Stinger

Edit to add:  The Stinger becomes less effective on smaller chain rings.  I wouldn't go any smaller than a 28.  The photo above is a 32 tooth.

May 30, 2018, 2:27 p.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: NSMB - 2018 - Hardtail Thread

2016 Chromag Samurai 65 (pre super slack HA)

Last year I did some updates. I sent the frame to DeKerf and he put in a port in the seat tube so I could run more dropper post options.

I also built it up as a single speed last year by using a Blackspire Stinger as a "tensioner". And it's pretty easy to switch between gears and single speed. I usually run a 32-19, but can remove a link and run it 28-19. It takes about 5 minutes to change gears.

Here's some Bush Doctor from Sunday

bd

I'm Currently building up a set of Chromag Phase rims on an old set of Hope Pro2 Evos (24 point engagement) and I'm going to throw some 2.6s on there.


Speaking of single speed, I'm going to try to be an enabler. You should try it out on your hardtail.

I made a little calculator to make it easier. You probably want to be somewhere around a 1.6 gear ratio on a 27.5 and around a 1.5 on a 29r.

https://goo.gl/forms/RfM8Wf3z6Cf3i8x72

May 30, 2018, 12:20 p.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: 2018 Nimby50

32-19 on a 27.5 wheel with 2.3" minions

It's a bit of a grunt on the steep climbs, but that's what the granny gear (walking) is for.   I must have gotten passed by 30 people on the flat section to Happy... that's what sucked the most.  Then it was Sunday cruise speed up the climb for the next hour.

Descending it was totally fine.  Although I was feeling pretty destroyed on all the descents.

May 29, 2018, 9:47 a.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: 2018 Nimby50

Where were all the single speeders?  

It was lonely out there.

Nov. 10, 2017, 5:38 p.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: Chromag Samurai

Well, if you want to hop on for sizing you're welcome to (North Van).  But I'm away next week.

FWIW, the M/L fits me like a glove 5'10", long legs (32" inseam).  I have enough space for a 175 mm dropper.

Nov. 10, 2017, 5:31 p.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Re: Art - sort of

Posted by: Endur-Bro

CAn't see shit.

How's that?

Nov. 10, 2017, 3:18 p.m.
Posts: 24
Joined: Feb. 24, 2017
Art - sort of

I re-purposed some of my old bike components and made a Picasso rip off.

The backing is also off cuts of hickory that were too long for the sidewalls on homemade skis.

This was actually pretty easy. I used a 27.2 mm seat post and then the stem, bars, and saddle from my old 2002 Banshee Scream.
There are 3 Beer can shims in between the stem and the seat post to make up for the 1.4 mm diameter difference.
The seat post is cut super short and I used a star fangled nut for a 1" steerer (yes, 1"), which fit in the seat tube really nicely (easily hammered in). Then a bolt and 2 sizes of washers to tighten it all down. Ta dah.

It's now hanging in my office at work, since apparently we have too much bike themed stuff at home already.

The original Picasso piece: Tete de Taureau

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