andy-eunson profile

I like my GD1 Ergons. At first I didn’t like them  more than my previous grips, Rev Grip medium diameter but after a week they disappeared under my gloves. Grips are such a personal thing though, like saddles. I have medium hands but I dislike slim grips. I find that too small a diameter pounds into my hands and they hurt a bit. I like grips that I don’t need to death grip to hold on. The Ergons do that for me due to the pattern and rubber. These new models look good too. Is there a 32 mm diameter one as well?

I have a pair of these. I rode them for about a year but it made no difference at all to me. When I grab a non rev grip and “rev” my hand, the soft tissue on my palm moves as much as a rev grip. While riding with rev grips I can’t feel any difference as Andrew says. I never ride park though but I do ride some long descents. I do cramp at times in my forearms but that’s more to do with being out for too long. I’ll get those cramps road riding too. 

I think they will help some riders with certain issues. I had elbow issues that were solved by rotating the bar a bit to change the sweep. Too wide with too little sweep causes me to have shoulders too high. 

Sometimes I think a person’s review of something is affected by how much they spent. I read ski reviews of boutique skis like DPS or Black Crows which can cost upwards of $1400. But I have also seen videos of those same people skiing and more often than not they aren’t t strong skiers. And I know really strong skiers that tried those boutique skis and sell them. There is a reluctance I think for someone to admit they spent a lot of money on something that does nothing.

Yes 69 cm from bb to saddle. I’m about 5’4” ish. 31 inseam so I do have long legs. I can often fit a medium in older bike models but small for most newer models. I’m starting think my proportions are at the freakish end of the spectrum.

The “referenced seat height” in the geometry chart seems way too low. 600 mm for the small is I assume seat height from the centre of the bb? I run my seat height at 690 with a 175 crank. That 600 seems a little unlikely. As are the other referenced seat heights. So the effective seat tube angle is not as steep as they indicate. I’m looking at the Geo chart and thinking I’m between small and medium but I’m not so sure.

So those wiggly wobbly 27.5 Assegais in my garage might actually be worth something?

Yes. Communication is key. I worked in a service industry. We relied upon others who relied upon others to perform jobs. A delay from one contractor had a knock on effect. I used to joke with bike shops when I ordered something that I would apply Andy’s Constant. 2X. If the thing was going to arrive in a week, I applied 2X to my expectations or, two weeks.

I remember chasing a rider over the Second Narrows bridge years ago. I was slowly catching him. He kept looking back and stood up to sprint. Went down hard. He said was OK when I asked him. He said his baggy shorts caught the top of his stanchion and hauled him down. Ouch.

As someone who rides a Trek with a knock block I can confirm that the lack of turn radius is a non issue. There are a couple of uphill corners where I come close to knocking my block but never on any downhill trails here in Whistler. Dual crown for longer travel forks only makes sense. No one in their right mind buys a long travel bike for it’s climbing prowess. Or lack thereof.

Back in the late ‘80s we had Rokko Lever Skins. It was a motorcycle product. Two skins in an air sealed package was enough for four bicycle levers. You slipped the skin over the brake lever and they would shrink when exposed to air. Really durable. I don’t recall them being much warmer during Toronto winters though.

It’s quite simple. Steep seat tube angles are needed for taller riders on bikes with ridiculously short chain stays. The reason I think is that it’s cheaper to make every frame size use the same rear triangle. The manufacturers tell us short stays are more (I despise this word) playful. Yet we see longer and longer bikes. That’s more stable.  Make up your mind guys. Twitchy or stable. Maybe. Just maybe if the rear end was a bit longer the front wouldn’t need to be so long? My Chameleon by all accounts should suck. I have the 29er fork so I can use plus tires, but I don’t. Over forked with a 150 36. I run the adjustable dropouts as far back as they go.  Seat tube angle is, gasp, 71 static. Probably 73 ish at full 3 cm sag. It climbs better longer and I didn’t really notice any lack of (Puke) playfulness either. 

I’ve never read a real reason why steep seat tube angles are said to be “more efficient”. I can guess it’s all about tall riders and dinky stays but when I see guys riding one of these bikes they are sitting really upright. Sorry that’s less efficient. No cross country racer sits bolt upright. It’s not better. Might be more comfortable. But that’s something else. If seat tube angles continue to get more steep I see a real market for gel seat covers.

My first experience with a 29er was probably ten years ago now? I had an Ibis Tranny 26 hardtail and I bought a frame and fork and built wheels for a Giant XTC 29er. I had. 100 mm fork on the tranny and a 120 on the Giant. The big wheels felt very similar in terms of steering input and output but when I rode those big wheels up Hyannis past Bridle Path on that rubble section the difference in rolling was really apparent in an eye opening way. I find 29ers tend to climb better too primarily because of the longer rear centre required by the bigger wheels.

On that note I’ve ordered a new 203 rotor because my old one is worn. So. Assuming brakes pads will be hard to get, which aftermarket Saint compatible pads are worthwhile.

Posted by: Ouch

Those that use riding glasses, any issue with fogging?

I can fog anything. The Ryders anti fog is pretty good but I fog those when it’s really humid and cool and I’m going slow. They scratched easily. I found Smith also scratch easily. Oakley like others have found are more resistant to scratching. I have a couple pair of Oakleys with the switch thing on the nose bridge that puts the lens further forward and it works quite well. I’d recommend it.

Posted by: craw

Back in my day we had 3D violet and we liked it.

For ten minutes. Oil slick is the modern version of purple, sorry 3D violet. Black or clear ano is safest. Maybe a coloured stem but I dislike the matchey matchey shit people do.

Or something a little more meaty https://youtu.be/F1DJFNSideQ

Another fantastic cover. https://youtu.be/NxPkxUMLH8g

https://youtu.be/4BYzRmiBwRE

Random YouTube find last year.

My neighbour has a Tundra with a Dakine or maybe EVOC pad and it looks like his tri fold tonneau closes but I’m not positive. Mine won’t close on my Dakine. EVOC make a short two bike pad that might be easier to remove.

Posted by: D_C_

In my experience, X01/XX1 Eagle chains last considerably longer than GX Eagle and are worth the approximately double in price, with well over double the lifespan. Getting the good chain is useful for protecting that $300+ cassette.

Yes and no. In terms of elongation absolutely. They don’t seem to elongate much at all saving the cassette. But I think they become sloppy laterally which affects shifting. Maybe the result of chain angle in lower gears? I’m still very impressed with longevity. I’m replacing my chains annually as well as the chain ring. I seem to hear noisy rings if I put a new chain on without a new ring.

One thing is dislike about 4WD is that you have to switch into 4WD. I’ve been in situations where you think you’re on pavement in 2WD then start sliding on black ice. My Ridgeline is excellent in snow. It has great off road traction in summer too but it does not have ground clearance for real off roading.