metacomet profile

I’m generally a size 34ish waist, but I found it was more so the thighs that were too tight in the size L’s, so I gave my size L DP3’s to my pretty skinny 15 year old son and they fit him great. I’d even still consider it a pretty racey fit for him, and for me in the XL DP4’s.   If you like your XL’s I’d really recommend trying on size L’s before making the jump. Easy enough to add an arcade belt if the waist is at all loose on the XL’s. And it’s a Lot easier to throw a slim base layer under my XL’s if I needed.

They’re quite narrow, especially at the ankle opening.  Maybe if you sized up, but even then maybe not. I already size up as I find the sizing of the pants and shorts to be Very slim and race oriented. I’m usually a Large in everything, including their shirts and jacket, but I am far more comfortable in XL for their pants and shorts, and they’re still not what I would call loose or baggy at all by any means.

I've gotten along quite well with the jacket. Ordered it as soon as it dropped.  It is very comfortable and durable, and actually not that bad to sweat in a bit, and offers a good deal of protection in a variety of conditions.  Its not a rain shell, but its not trying to be and I think that's a great thing.  Its definitely on the warmer side for a riding jacket, but its breathable enough that it doesn't boil you like most all of the nylon hardshell types, and it is WAY more durable.  It is definitely not an ultra packable jacket, and that made me a bit reluctant, but for the temps and rides it works for, I just keep it on anyway and its done a great job of keeping me comfortable.  I've actually used the jacket quite a bit off the bike as well and its been great.  I do wish the chest pocket was oriented vertically though and I would probably use that pocket more if it was. High and horizontal makes it a bit awkward to get things out of it.   Some vents would be great, but I'd be hesitant to introduce more zippers and compromise anything about the fit and the simplicity, and more zippers would potentially add more bulk and remove flexibility as well as another point of failure.  I could take or leave the dual way zipper personally, and think its a bit finicky and more delicate feeling when zipping it up or with the bottom open, but can see how some people really value this feature. 

I haven't had cold enough temps to use the heavyweight pants yet, but they fit great like the DP4's.  They are WARM. One thing I would Really like to see, especially in the heavyweights, is either a straight leg/bootcut option , or a zippered gusset at the ankle so it could be opened up, and fall over the outside of my shoes.  This would make them way more useful off the bike as well for hiking/trail building/fatbiking/snowshoeing/other winter sports and just daily use.  I'd honestly love that option in the DP4's as well, but maybe that's just me.  The very tightly fitted ankle really limits their functionality since it funnels everything into your shoe.  Maybe its an option, maybe its a whole different pant designed more around daily versatility but with the same fabrics and some of the design elements as the DP4/heavyweight pattern.

That IS a fear I have with every single mtb out there.  Which is why this one seems like there is just SO MUCH MORE expensive shit to break and go wrong, and go wrong spectacularly with enormous headache inducing service requirements.  Maybe the frame is burly, but what about all the plastic bits hanging off it?  Head unit ripped off by your knee in a crash?  Scratched stanchion, blown shock, cracked frame, etc etc etc.  But add a batteries and flight attendant and the whole host of synced electronics and replacing that scratched stanchion, or ripping the flight attendant off the fork or shock during a tumble, and I bet the dollars involved in replacing and resetting things are going to be a lot higher and more complicated than me swapping a part on a non electronically integrated part with headset cable routing.  

I guess what I am getting at, is that bikes of this nature just seem so much less serviceable in the long term.  Things will break.  Maybe they will be repairable, maybe they will not.  If they are, its certainly gonna be expensive as fucking hell.  If they arent, what are your options for salvage?  Ebikes dont come as frame only.  And even if the broken item is replacebale/repairable, the replacement may be so complicated, expensive, and labor intensive that you may be left wondering if the repair is even worthwhile.  On a 16k bicycle!   The same 16k bicycle that stopped working when you rode it through a stream.  What will happen when its on the back of your car during a near freezing temp downpour after a soaking wet slick ride with maybe a crash or two.

There is so much unnecessary and fragile stuff going on with this bike that I really dont think I could happily live with it even if I could afford it. Mtn bikes live a pretty hard life and things already break and go wrong.  My philosophy with mtn bikes has always been that you should be able to afford to buy your bike and whatever you are putting on it, twice, and some things even three times, because shit is going to break if you ride it.  There is very little about this that looks like it was built with any amount of longevity in mind, and with all of the inter-dependency of all the integrated electronics, systems, separate batteries, headset cable routing, bar mounted and exposed control unit, one piece bar-stem, etc etc...  This seems like it would be a really fun toy for a year, maybe two at best?  Or maybe only until the first or second time you crash and send it tumbling and sliding off into the rocks and trees.  After that... What will the cost be to get it back up and running?  Is there anything breakable that would straight up kill the bike outright? Cracked frame?  Will they still support any of this stuff in even 5 years time?

No reservation about drilling holes in frames, but this is an Aurum HSP, so really not an option.  Not totally certain how well the insertion/extension/dropped height/extended height combo will work with the revive anyway, but there’s a chance! Will have to take some measurements.  The bike has decent insertion depth with the shape of the seatmast, so I’m fairly hopeful some combo might work. 

This would be sweet to make some areas more accessible with the DH bike, and be a 2 second job to take it off and put the fixed post back on for straight DH days.

The level of information shared here is just awesome.  I’ve always really liked all the bike yoke droppers I’ve played with on other peoples bikes, but I’ve never owned one myself.  The extra short overall length for max-drop of the one-ups has always won me over.  BUT, because of all the information shared here, and the mention that you can actuate this post with a hex key through the revive function, sans remote, may have just put me in the market for one.  This functionality could be the solution to putting a long dropper on my DH bike since it was obviously not designed with internally routed dropper posts in mind.  I’ve been waiting for a remote-less dropper for that exact application, and had no idea it already existed.

Wow!   Really enjoyed that!  Awesome artwork and execution of the idea.

The ¨bike industry¨ by direct influence of the consumers, seems to have lost a LOT in the translation between the things that would legitimately improve our riding experience, and always making every unreasonable and unnecessary effort to make things as light as possible along with making every unreasonable and unnecessary effort to make things as sexy looking as possible. 

Good, clean, well considered external routing can easily preserve and really even enhance the looks of a bike while making it logical, affordable, and even enjoyable to work on.  

I guess from a manufacturers standpoint, good clean well considered external routing costs a lot more development money than just deciding to shove all the cables in through a hole in the side of the frame or through some godforsaken tiny slit in a stem and headset and letting the consumers deal with the expense of both money and time, and as an extra bonus they can sell it as a feature because it looks sexy in pictures?   Logical cable routing most Definitely influences my purchasing decisions because living with and working on a bike with shitty routing is f´ing shitty. 

Wouldn't it be something wonderful if manufacturers made more conscious efforts to properly and effectively fully Seal frames and components from any water/salt/dust/sand/mud whatever intrusion, protect bearings with robust seals and shields, and use more appropriate and larger and incredibly well sealed bearings where it makes sense LIKE THE BB and HEADSET?  Wouldn't that be worth some grams?  Wouldn't it be worth having cable routing that lets you or your shop easily perform the most basic and minimal maintenance your bike will frequently require?  Instead we prioritize putting holes everywhere to seemingly guarantee that frames will invite water and salt and sand and mud to come hang out inside and rot those bearings and everything else out as rapidly as possible.

Its pretty good, but I wish there were individual guides and clamps under the cover to help keep the cables organized while you route everything, and then the cover would just hide it all.  As it is now, keeping the cables sorted under the cover while you tighten it down is annoyingly finicky, and it makes replacing an individual cable/housing that much more annoying as well.  I also wish the dropper cable was routed into the other side of the headtube/downtube before entering the frame so it gives the cable a more natural radius.  GG must be one of the only manufacturers that I am aware of that routes the dropper cable into the non-drive side.  I actually have two revved GGs in the house, mine and my sons, so these obviously arent a deal breaker, but it could be better IMO.