metacomet profile

I liked the dissector a good bit, but there's room for improvement.  Mostly in the cornering knobs.  And the two-ride then refund theory is probably due to how f'ing quickly the side knobs give up and begin to fold over and undercut.  
I'd like to see a re-run of the dissector, shaped more like a Assegai.  Big, wide, and well supported side knobs like the Assegai, and with similar center knobs, just much shorter to roll quicker and maybe even save some weight as a result.  The Dissector clears better than the Aggressor and holds a lot of promise, but it just doesn't hook up as well when leaned over. They just seem to get overwhelmed on hard surfaces like slabs and hardpack and such, fold over, and then wear to near nothing at the base in just a few rides.  Assegai/DHRII has been the killer combo for me, but it would be nice to have a better'er at faster rolling rear option like we hoped the dissector was going to be.

Is it possible to replace the E-13 Wintek cartridge with the Crank-Bros Wintek cartridge? Or do they use different fixing mounts/hardware/actuator/design, etc that make them non-interchangeable?

I think SRAM may be a different matter all together, but I haven't had the bearings in XT/XTR/Saint pulleys start feeling crappy or give me any other sort of issue, but the SLX ones always seemed to get contaminated and feel crappy rather quickly in my experience. I’d clean them and grease them and keep them running until eventually replacing them.  I haven’t personally ran a SRAM drivetrain since the 90’s so I cant really comment on them other than seeing many broken mechs and lots of friends complaining about persistent issues trailside. Mostly crapped out clutches, messed up pulleys, and being delicate and finicky overall.

Do the 12 speed SLX pulley wheels still run on bushings, rather than cartridge bearings?  That was always the biggest/only thing separating the SLX from XT derailleurs.  I have swapped out the SLX pulley wheels for nicer ones in the past after they crapped out, or when I needed to add another small item to the cart.  It does make  a noticeable difference especially once the SLX ones are worn out or contaminated.

Awesome!  Thanks for posting your early impressions.  I've been running the tubed Tannus inserts on my DH bike for two seasons now, and have been really liking them for that application.  No flats in all that time, no mess, and dead simple.

Personally speaking, my post is full up or full down 90% of the time I'm using it but I definitely want to have the infinite adjust.  Not So much for the ability to constantly vary the height, but to be able to just quickly get the seat down and out of the way without Needing to get it all the way down. If I lower it, I want it to stay wherever I lowered it to.  With the indexed posts, you either hit that spot or the post comes back up with you when you stand, which is a very scary thing when you need and expect the seat to be down and out of the way during very quick situations involving committing moves with consequences and high potential for things to go wrong.  There's other times such as on tech climbs where I'll drop it just enough to move around a bit more freely, while still being able hover and get some weight on it for traction when needed.

Haven't ever owned a DOSS.  I'm using 9point8's and OneUp's.  Neither of those are soo fast or loud, but they come up quick enough and have just enough of a thunk to know they're definitely at the top without needing to give it any more thought.  Same with the Bike Yoke's I've tried.  Smooth and quick with a little thunk at the top.   I think the scariest post I've ever stood over was the Command Post from Specialized.   Those things could do double duty as a pneumatic hammer! KAPOWWW!  You do Not want to have your bits be anywhere near the saddle when you press that trigger! Sounds like a similar experience with the that DOSS.   

The PNW has a nice speed and very smooth operation, but its Dead silent when it hits the top. I kept thinking it wasn't coming up all the way the first time I tried it on a friends bike.   Awesome to have so many good options these days.

The new PNW posts are definitely super nice. I really love their design for the travel adjust, and the price point is...on point! Ha! One thing I would see as an improvement is to have an audible cue at top out. For whatever reason, I like hearing and knowing that the post has come all the way up.

If he's been using TriFlow for that long and hasn't seen the light yet, he has long been a lost cause.  ;-) 

What went wrong with the WPL fork oil?  Think it was specific to a certain fork/damper design or viscosity?  My experience with it has been with DVO, so the 2.5wt in the damper and the 7wt in the lowers.

Boeshield T-9 for my chains and cables for the last many years with good success.  The chains just seem to stay clean longer with no gunk build up, and its simple to clean and apply.  Can't see how you can go too wrong with it no matter the season. It's one weakness is maybe longevity during the wettest and muckiest of conditions, but there's nothing I've seen or experienced that actually works better in those conditions anyway. 

For all my suspension stuff I have really loved using WPL oils and grease.  Its a pleasure to work with and isn't harmful to your skin or the environment, which means no harmful crap when cleaning and disposing of it.  The grease works awesome on suspension seals and the oils have been perfect for lowers and damper services.  The forkboost lube does exactly what it says, and is great on dropper post stanchions too, and mixes well with the grease.  I like to add a drop to the grease I'm putting on the suspension seals.  I also use the grease on threads and low rotation bearings like headsets with really good success.  That stuff stays put and gives really slick lubrication despite how thick it feels in hand.   

The Kluber Isoflex LDS 18 Special A grease that Onyx uses for their clutch assembly works awesome in bearings as well.  Really expensive to purchase, but a little goes a long ways and damn it seems to last forever and resists contamination very well.