jt profile

I had a set of Prime Comps which were problem free as well.

They patented it back 5 years ago if I remember right. No one really saw it since they haven't released a noteworthy brake until now. I think the last brake they released was the Radar and that was hardly noteworthy.

Hydro's generally can have 3 functional issues  (i.e. not related to pad or fluid contamination) and if no leaks are present: Bad bleed, ruptured brake line, or blown master cylinder piston. 

It's easy to test for all 3 in one go. Hook up an overflow bottle (syringe without a plunger will suffice) to the master cylinder with the MC in the bleed position. Insert a pad spacer/bleed block at the caliper, slowly pull the lever. Watch the fluid rise up into the overflow as how it behaves tells you what you need to know. If the level spikes up consistently with no engagement, likely a MC piston. If the height that it rises decreases with each lever pull, likely a brake line issue. In both of those instances, the lever will travel to the bar as long as it's pulled slowly. It may begin to engage if you pump it fast. For the final scenario, if minimal to no fluid rises up but the brake engages then it's likely a bad bleed. If you want more info, PM me and I'll be happy to break down the why's of it.

Depends on your definition of worth. I find it worth it as I enjoy tinkering, enjoy learning how an item functions, and arguably I'm a bit frugal. I find worth in the learning experience, and if I can help someone out later on all the better. Kinda surprising how a bit of knowledge can get someone back to the trail head.

I'd bet one of the higher end versions would fit perfectly since they have (relatively speaking) the same geo due to their job duties. Not speaking from experience on SRAM, but it's helped me out on Shimano more than a couple times.

Word. There are so many examples of this on bikes. Bent derailleur cages can be replaced. Crappy working shifters can be overhauled. Some brakes have ALL their parts available for repair. It's even easier to dive into these repairs and tweaks with the advent of video platforms. 

We can bemoan planned obsolescence, but it doesn't mean we have to be active participants in it.

Take a smaller diameter tube (say a 26" if using it on a  29er), split the outside surface all the way around, and install on the rim with the tube hanging off the side. Also known as ghetto tubeless in some circles. Works amazingly well.

Exactly what I was thinking.

Always happy to dole out kudos when deserved. You cats earn them often.

I was also thinking about wear I'd seen on comp shafts from the end nut used to hold the compression assembly inside the stanchion. Most forks have some sort of bushing in there, but not all. Decoupling the piston and the comp rod and allowing them to both remain parallel to their respective glide surfaces just seems so obvious.

First, I love these articles still. You may get bored reading that comment, but it opens one's eyes to what the heck is happening inside the goods. That leads me to secondly, and correct me if I'm incorrect here, that interface between the comp rod and the air piston appears to be a ball joint, and if so BIG kudos to X Fusion for designing their air piston to work with the inherent flex of a sus fork. I've wondered for a long time why manufacturers haven't taken that route to get rid of side load interference and friction on their air pistons. Might bit curious to see how it holds up.