I'm with you, why hasn't DVO released a 29" 180mm travel variant of the Emerald?
Joined Feb. 24, 2017
Posted in 2017 F1 Thread
3 months ago
That was a really entertaining fracas/debacle. I ...
Posted in Protective Frame Tape?
3 months ago
That all makes sense, it hadn't occurred ...
Posted in Protective Frame Tape?
3 months, 1 week ago
I can't possibly be the only person ...
Posted in (+) 30mm on the bars - am I going to notice?
3 months, 1 week ago
You should definitely be able to scoot stuff ...
Posted in Strong, Durable Wheels
3 months, 1 week ago
Not many places have them, but the WTB ...
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Dunno, sounds like a potentially useful plugin to the trail navigation apps out there to have a 'flag trail work' option that could also accept photo uploads. Sure, it would get larded up with since standard internet faire, but as a mechanism to track and organize sorts of work get done, it would be reasonable. Attach it to some Google docs, and spend winters mapping out some of the desired trail work, and it could spread out the burden. Might need some catchy name like Open Source trail work, but in other hobbies where I'm equally mystified and grateful for how much effort, skill, and brilliance get dumped in voluntarily by a dedicated few to further the sport, the best currency to offer is recognition for work done, and the community that emerges from collaboration.
I just see this as an opportunity to make park bikes better as park bikes, and without the fuss of trying to make those setups so double duty as DH race rigs, they can be much better for lapping something lift served, or shuttled. There will be good options that can do both, but I see no reason a company couldn't make frames that can be ran single or dual crown, adjustable geometry to run 26" or 650b, maybe even adjustable travel from 180-200mm... If the dropouts are themselves adjustable, then whatever existing wheels will drop in.
I think the wider gear jumps seem trivial in isolation, but because 11 speed chains don't really self-destruct without having hundreds of miles on them (at which point the value proposition gets a lot better), then it looks a lot more like a feature which is lumped in with the lighter and cheaper XT/NX equivalent option.
I'd still like to see a manual granny setup ship stock - it's not as though a 22T ring adds that much weight, and would in my estimation quell a lot of the concerns of people with questionable knee meniscuses (myself included).
@jeffgicklhorn: I totally agree that they need to come up with something different... although it is a shared damper architecture they use, so not technically disingenuous.
Considering that it's SRAM, I don't know why they haven't just added some alphanumeric designations at the end to simplify it [and do the same with the Charger setups], which would a) denote the actual type and parts used, b) convey a key figure of merit or dimension, such as stanchion size, and c) look more technical and awesome to anybody who encounters them.
Only perceptible downside of jumping the shark is that cassette weight. Fine for a big beefy bike, and hardtails, but that kind of unsprung weight when compared to the e13 setup can dig the weight weenies out of the closet when when 2g/$ is on the table.
The Eagle GX groups have already inadvertently broken cover in Santa Cruz spec sheets, so that's a thing. It should be around the same money as a Shimano XT setup with e13 cassette (Still wants an XD driver), for basically the same range.
I think budget winner here (particularly for Clydes on a budget running DT-350 hubs) is actually taking a stock XT cassette and just adding the OneUp 10t kit for another $96. Seems pricy, but north of 100kg, being able to come down 2 teeth on the chairing is really nice, and opting for a 46t granny setup but still getting a 3.0:1 tall gear ratio is great on a do-everything wagon wheeler.
I've gotten to ride all of those, but only on demo bikes (which for the most part were larger bikes). If given the option I'd only ever ride Saints (or Saint calipers and XTR levers on both ends), because I adapted to those brakes almost instantly. They're unequivocally better, I just can't bring myself to spend more than I spent on M785 XT's
The servo wave nature on the XT/SLX/Deore brakes to most feels really on-off, but to me I feel like it's just a steeply ramped spline area where I'm trying to do all my modulation work with the finger within 3-5mm of lever travel. While not ideal, I've just gotten used to it - every brake I had ridden before moving to XT/SLX was garbage (Formula R1 & T1, Tektro cable-disks, and Avid Elixir 1's)...
but a grain of salt is still required because my other bike that sees the most miles is still running Elixir 1's on small rotors. Despite the practically worthless tires I run on that bike (utterly worn out Maxxis Aspen's - semi-slicks, but anymore the 'semi' is in name only), I'm pushing the thermal envelope on those brakes anyway.
So- I tend to be pretty indifferent about brakes provided I can get enough power to overwhelm the tires
The simplest and most cost friendly approach would be to simply increase rotor size up front - stepping up to 203mm out front is the biggest incremental bump in stopping power. Slight weight penalty, but that's a ~$60usd answer.
That said, despite being a large oaf, I'm not that hard on brakes because I'm almost always traction limited, so XT brakes on 203/180 rotors and finnned semi metallic pads works fine.
Great point, and a question I'm curious about as well.
I think the Hawk Hill beats the Precept 120 and edges out Precept 130 as a value proposition (with the 1x drivetrain, wheels/tires, and brakes - though the suspension might edge towards the KP 130).
The Precept 150 - I'd be curious about that against the Min-Max-Marin, because the Hawk Hill, after being dragged through an upgrade catalog, would be the more expensive one, but hopefully have a better (longer, better actuated) dropper post, brakes, tires, and kinematic setup.
They're an inch apart in travel, and to a degree intention, but those two bikes would be exactly where I'd point people looking to get into the sport.
I think the Hawk Hill is intended as more of an all-around bike, while the Precept 150 definitely has that feel of being enough bike to let you embarrass well-heeled riders on descents and laugh all the way to the bar with how much less it costs... but I'd like to see that comparison and/or those two bikes be the type used as test mules for reasonably priced components.
Either way - with two good bikes, both at reasonable price ranges - it's a good time to be a mountain biker.
That was a really entertaining fracas/debacle. I'm genuinely happy for everybody on the podium. Seeing the still shot of Valtteri's cat from lap one, the fact that he scored points was insane... having a legitimate shot at the win (if one more safety car happened) is just unreal - dive of the race to me, even though Ricciardo was brilliant, and Lance proved he belongs in that seat with his pass on Massa and the Force India pair. Wehrlien is still keeping Sauber ahead of McLaren in the constructors points, which may hold through the end of the season.
Seb thew away a race win, without doubt. I think that in and of itself is significant, and Ferrari management can only forgive and forget at a certain rate - more wins and it becomes a footnote, more problems and whoever replaces Kimi has a better shot at being lead driver sooner.
Ocon shoving Checo into the wall took Force India out of what could have been a double podium/probable first race win. I hope Verstappen and Red Bull can put together a complete race, because a real Newey car next year in what is now an aero efficiency formula could be his best shot. I feel bad for Hulkenberg (self-imposed) and Grosjean (less so, but there had to be a way Magnusson is driving around those issues).
That all makes sense, it hadn't occurred to me that the reason mine looks only mostly trashed is that I covered it in electrical tape. Considering that it's an out of production diamondback frame, I'll probably never have the occasion to remove it.
I think I'll pony up and go with helicopter tape on my other carbon bike.
I can't possibly be the only person who had tried hockey tape on chainstays, over a thin section of inner tube... No idea how awful the tape residue is going to be, but I also see no reason to remove it.
You should definitely be able to scoot stuff in and see how it feels. Is trying a 10mm shorter stem a realistic possibility? A lot of the bars feeling much wider is that you also end up a bit further forward with your center of mass, which draws more attention to that change
Not many places have them, but the WTB ST i25s are pretty tough rims, but not exorbitant in term of weight (580g in widest 29er).
I ride like a fat oaf, but somewhat quickly (usually into rocks, or cacti). That run has lasted the longest for me, the wheel is actually on its second SLX hub rebuild with the same rim.
They'll still dent, but I was writing off tires due to sidewall immolation at the same time, and they bent back easily. Hadley hubs, Hope, or if you want to look at the hubs as as potential investment, DT350.
Posted by: jan
How do you know! TELL ME YOUR SOURCES!!!
I was curious about that as well. I had heard rumors that there would be an early June and an early July announcement, and we have the N4... but I haven't seen anything definitive.
As for the 160 front, 150 rear setup that comes with the 57mm stroke and going to a longer fork, I think some of the magic is added capability up front. I got to beat on the full Enve/X01 demo build, and it still wasn't that snappy climbing (technical or flat) - just eminently capable. Longer shock isn't going to take that away.
Since it's already a bit of a bulldozer downhill anyway, I can see the appeal of adding A2C while keeping the bb drop close to stock. On a larger negative air spring shock, some of the kinematic hyperactivity from punchy pedaling efforts calms down slightly, while achieving a more supple feel on small stuff. The other contributor to why people love their long shock setups is that many went from a Monarch RT3 DBA, a good but not great shock, to a Float X2, Topaz, Ohlins TTX, or Vivid Air.
Posted by: ReductiMat
If this were a case of an insurance company suing on behalf of the person, would it be general knowledge?
Usually situations that are screwy (or at least really obvious to anybody with common sense) but go through litigation anyway fall under that category... I think part of the reason is that the ramifications of this are mostly positive financially for new bike parks.
Posted by: sjshaw672
Any guesses on when the first 60T sprocket will arrive? We could all run 34/36/38s then...
I've always had the nagging feeling that the Eagle setup would win out over the e.13 type (9-46T) for the simple and tragic reason that people could e-peen harder about how large a chainring they run.
I've found that unless I'm on a long ride with over 2000ft of climbing, the 30(oval)/42 on my 29er isn't what's holding me back. Even then, my biggest range limitation is on the top end. I'm tragically slow on climbs anyway, but I'm spun out on a few high speed descents that in my mind are worth climbing to (30-11), so if I go to a 9-46T setup then I solve both of those issues at once.
Personal preference, and based a lot on how people approach cornering. I run 810mm bars on my trail bike and 780mm on my XC hardtail [50mm and 70mm stems respectively] (6'2", +3 ape index - somewhat broad shoulders, so I'm not totally off the deep end with this). I try to attack turns on initiation, and want stability when I'm mindlessly plowing through rocky sections on both bikes, so I run wider bars. I'm not a finesse rider, and manage to collide with trailside trees and cacti even running 680mm bars, so I lose comparatively little.
I still use as my primary metric for bar width being adequate how much push-up force I can generate at halfway through pushup position - which is where my poorly built upper body is basically at its weakest. I think it biases me towards wider bars, but my compensation mechanism has been to go full 'duro and slap on some handguards for the cacti and drive on.
I think a non-trivial amount of the hype for wider bars is that it's always possible to trim bars down slightly - for each person it's individual preference. I think the reason the default answer is always 'buy wider bars' is that cutting down bars to fine tune is always possible, and trying wider bars with shorter stems typically comes with more enjoyment, and among the few who decide to trim down, it's usually not all the way back to the original size.
Even though Maxxis advertises the WT line as optimized for 35mm, the 2.4 DHR2 on a 29mm internal setup is still right where a 2.3 DHR2 is (in terms of shoulder knob angle, and ease of getting onto them in flat turns).
I'll take the extra volume from the wider sizes on offer, but they're fine on 30mm rims. I'm waiting on the 2.4 MinionSS, a tire for which I really hope they run them on 35mm or wider rims, because dragging cornering knobs has been my primary wear mechanism on the 2.3 variant.