Taz123's posts

Posted by: syncro

it shouldn’t be an issue to reroute the line like XXX_er say but you do need to be aware of where any other services are located. I wouldn’t worry too much about the cracked line, you’ll have to shut off the water at some point anyway. If you do it yourself plan the new line and dig that trench first to leave the old line in place till you’re ready to switch it over.  

I’m working up in Berkley over the next few days, if you’re close I can come by for a look and give you some free advice. I’m too busy to offer any help with actually doing the work tho. 

Get a couple of quotes from say Milani, North Shore Plumbing and Daryl Evans Mechanical (mtb’er I think) as a place to start to see if it’s worth trying to save any money by doing some of it yourself.

Sent you a PM -thanks.

I'm not allergic to the work, just don't necessarily have the time at the moment. Thanks everyone for the comments!! I appreciate this community!

Posted by: syncro

Imo your decision will be based on time vs cost. If you have the time to dig up the old pipe yourself which will be the bulk of the work then you may only need a plumber to actually do the connection. You can do it yourself tho as it will just be a compression fitting at the street side and at your pressure regulator inside the house. Finding the line should be easy, as it should basically be a straight line from the shut off to the house. As you already know where the shut off is just dig back from there. You could just replace the broken section of pipe, but it’s probably worth doing the whole thing. It ultimately depends on the condition of the pipe and where/why it broke.

Thanks, the issue is that the routing is not just straight and likely goes under a giant tree/rhododendron before taking a turn and heading into the house.

The District folks said that they could tell that the sound was getting louder, which indicates that there is likely a crack...which makes me nervous to go digging around with a spade given the 1970s vintage of this line.

Their "trenchless" installation looks interesting.

yeah, I don't see this as being "cheap"

Water started spurting out of our standpipe on Friday. The District of NV came by to look at it today and sure enough, the leak is on our side of the shut-off valve.

Has anyone dealt with this kind of thing before? I'm guessing I need to call a plumber to replace the source line which means digging up my front yard to trace the line. Any recommendations on a plumber? What do I need to do vs. the plumber?

Thanks,

Gord

Posted by: Brocklanders

Dave if you are reading this... we miss you

Yes, yes we do

Posted by: Hepcat

BTW snowline has dropped about a million feet from a couple of days ago, not missing anything.

How far down on Seymour/Fromme?

ME7s were way to narrow for me last year - I got AM9s and don't see me looking back.

It was a bit of a failure.

A few lessons (I echo a number of Znarfs observations). 

- 2.3" Maxxis tires don't like to mount with ARDs on 30mm rims. I think the tires are too narrow.

- The ARD does expand (using Stans). After fighting the tire-fight for a good hour (and breaking 3 tire levers), I gave up on the first night. When I came back the following evening to finish it off, the ARD had expanded (I use Stans), so I will need to cut them and re-connect/glue them back together.

- The included valves are useless (very small opening) - I have Raceface Turbine wheels that are asymmetrical - so a wedge spacer is needed to get a proper seal (don't forget this part). I may try them again with a compressor... A regular tubeless valve will push air directly into the insert...so I'm not sure of the solution here.

- In the end, I gave up and mounted a new Onza tire (2.4" with a wider tread pattern) without an insert. Side-note, not a bad tire (IBEX) - very similar to the Maxxis Highroller II WT.

- I will cut them down over the holidays and try again (may need a few extra beers for stress management), and hopefully I can get them to seat with a compressor. I don't see them seating by hand, but I will try again with a regular tubeless valve. This makes me think that the trail-side repair is to pull the insert and install a tube and wear a lovely yellow sash (i.e. the ARD).

-Gord

oh my god, oh my god, oh my god,

oh my god, oh my god,oh my god,

shaking hands in panic/excitement...

I'm at the point on my second one when I need to do a brake reset before every ride. I usually can get away with version 1 or 2 at the remote, but every 3-4 rides, I'm having to pull the seat out and pull from the seatpost. And yes my cable is super-loose, so it is not over-tight.

Sorry to derail the thread a bit - For those using cable actuated droppers, are you lubing the cable inside of the housing?

9.8 FallLine 150mm - I've gone through two (both warrantied). They work great at first and the brakes stop working ... I'm not going to re-buy.

Great insights - thank you. I've had my suspension set up using Arthur (Suspension Therapy), so I have a good baseline to work from. I was trying to visualize how inserts would help/hurt the ride quality, and the token-comment really helps.

Suspension Gurus, how should I modify my suspension settings to account for arguably stiffer tires?

For those that are "insert curious", chainreaction are selling them for just over $50CAD - I figure its worth an experiment for my clydesdaleness.