geraldooka profile

Boom. Nice.

I run a -1.5 works on my Krampus with the stock rigid fork and it bumped the set angle forward about .5 deg. to 73, how are you measuring this change?

Regarding doing this I can highly recommend it on a Krampus I thought the resulting 68deg head angle would be too much but it actually rides great with no loss of steering precision or floppy wheel syndrome, even in tight commuting duties. It was originally installed for an over-forking experiment with full intent on replacing the original headset but I have no intention of doing that now.

Sweet. Great looking rig. Doesn't seem too low, decently slack for a rigid though! I'm in the custom frame process at the moment so I like peeping at other folks interpretation of their preferred geo particularly those that ride in the PNW.

More importantly... Where are all the pics and deets of this bad boy posted??

You're totally right I had that reversed in my brain and blame not having enough coffee before wanting to tell someone they were wrong on the internet. Lean your bike not your body in flat/off-camber. Just don't do both on a flat or off camber corner or my go pro beer statement still stands ;) thanks for the slap.

Um. Keeping your bike upright and leaning your body is how you should should be riding a flat to off camber corner... (incorrect statement written in caffeine starved prove someone wrong on the internet state) in fact I’d like to see someone ride those two scenarios whilst leaning their bike and body (this is still true), just let me get my go pro and a beer.

Re 4 that assumes balanced is somehow better than unbalanced. I love me some short stays, particularly on a hardtail where I need as much traction on the rear as possible. Plus, I like not having to ride like an acrobat to hop off lips and screw around wheeling down a section of trail for kicks. Practical? No. Balanced? I guess not. Fun? You bet. 

Re Works headsets I’ve installed 4 so far 2 shifted while installing it’s not a big deal after the first attempt planning for the shift makes it work. They are excellent products. Reach loss is tiny when you factor in the resultant drop of the front end for a hardtail it’s not even worth thinking about.

Thanks Andrew, I'm more interested diameter of the wheel with the tire rather than width for BB height. Cheers, - Michael

@Andrew Major any chance you measured the diameter of the SE2 or 4 in 29 guise installed on your i30 rims?

Cheers,

Michael

I also suffered the issues with the initial set of these. Swapping to oil solved the skipping issues for me as well. I still bought another one and I’d happily continue buying them despite the high price. They roll like mad and the silence is bliss. It should be noted unlike other silent or near silent hubs on the market these are much lighter in weight. One also saves time and money (as mentioned; no special tools) in their ease of service.

CoilAir, it can be as complicated or simple as you like! The leverage ratio refers to the amount of force applied for a given travel distance. Bikes can have higher, lower or variable leverage (and as such force applied) differences through out the entire range of available travel. In the case of the Process 153 it appears that you're leverage ratio changes very little from zero travel to full travel and falls from a higher leverage ratio to a lower ratio approximately 2.84 to 2.62. So at the beginning of your travel you have a bigger lever i.e. more force than you have at the end of your travel a smaller lever i.e. less force. The force chart is simply indicating how much force that lever is applying at a given travel.

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Make sure your wire and spade are appropriately sized for the amperage. Good luck. Coffee machine down = bad.

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I have a Nimble 9 which is similar in Geo to the Honzo or Taro. I can say that its is a great bike with ridiculously short chain stays and a similarly very short wheelbase. Its a fun bike to ride for sure but not nearly as fun as my Heckler.

That was tough to stomach as first (my first modern bike I built) but riding back to back even on trails that really don't warrant the Heckler I'd prefer to be on it. I have relegated the Nimble 9 to my bike packing bike and occasionally will take it out for a ride around town but for fun on the trails its the Heckler all the way.

Despite its geo I just can't manipulate the 29er as easily, level wheel lifts, front wheel lifts manuals etc. are all more difficult to do on it. I suspect that despite the progressive geo one still has that BB drop to contend with and that changes leverage ratios significantly. The heckler with its much longer wheelbase (1138 vs 1080ish) much longer chain stay (439 vs 415ish) feels more nimble and fun, it does have the smaller 27.5 wheels and a correspondingly shorter BB drop… My 2 cents.

I'm also heading in the light as possible direction. Went from Flows to lighter wheels (still trail oriented) and from the 2.4 Ardents to the 2.2 Ikons. The difference in weight/feel has been awesome (I run both tubeless.) I'm now convinced that my bike budget needs to redirect as much funds as possible to even lighter wheels! I like those Beavers but the EXO version is 760grams which likely means closer to 800 about the weight of the Ardents…

The start of our local haunt here (Hartland) is one big climb. The rest is short ups and downs its just too much climbing for the big tires for too little pay offs on short downs.