Vikb profile

Nothing wrong with wearing a pack if that makes you happy. I put my pads on in the parking lot and wear them the whole ride. I did that most of the time when I wore a backpack.

I've been enjoying packfree riding since last year. Can't see myself going back unless it's a tour. I did use a fanny pack last year for longer rides to carry a bit of extra water. Since I drank that water first by the time we started pointing down it was gone and the fanny pack disappeared from notice so it wasn't a bad solution.

I did use a Porcelain Rocket downtube bag on my Knolly to carry all my tools/pump/spares last year. That worked really well.

Knolly Endo --->  https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/35540597914_c38a8b72a0_k.jpg

Buying a new 29er this year I got a Guerrilla Gravity Smash. With mounts for two water bottles and room inside the frame for a bag I'm now totally bag free unless the rides start pushing 5hrs+ in the summer.

GG Smash ---> https://farm1.staticflickr.com/981/42048172211_92c5001037_k.jpg

I love the lack of stuff hanging on my body. But the key for this working is:

1. it can't compromise my ride

2. it can't compromise my ability to fix normal mechanicals

At this point I wouldn't even consider a bike that can't fit a water bottle in the frame and a bag under the down tube. The GG has spoiled me with two bottles and a frame bag.  Not sure I'll be able to beat that going forward.

I get a very concise [ie. zero words or pics] article when I try and read this.

I explained how I am measuring my STA....from BB to middle of the saddle rails at my full ride height.  That's the only STA I care about since that is the one that I use for climbing and most seated pedalling.

How steep the Endo is comparatively just depends on what bikes you compare it to. My point is not the comparison, but the fact that it is objectively steep and that steep doesn't make it better for everyone. 

The fact that some other bike has a 90 deg STA, which is steeper than the Endo or some bike has a slacker STA is irrelevant to me.

The Endo has a measured STA [incl offset dropper] that's 1 deg steeper than the bike it replaced. 

Steep STAs are great for really steep climbing, but not the rest of my pedalling needs. Really steep climbing is only a fraction of my ride time so I prefer a more relaxed STA for that and I can slide forward on my saddle for the short time I am cranking up a wall.

I've noticed with the newest crop of steep STA bikes folks have started asking about setback droppers, talking about bending saddle rails from pushing the saddles back too far and noting they love the new bike for steep up and steep down, but wouldn't choose it for more pedally all mountain riding.

To your other point...your body doesn't know or care how the saddle to BB relationship is achieved, but it sure does know what's comfortable and efficient. So the only thing the offset can do is move the saddle backwards like a slacker STA would.

Honestly the fact that not everyone like steep STAs shouldn't be shocking to you.

Nope:  https://farm1.staticflickr.com/945/41210139194_3096d222f5_h.jpg

Not a Knolly, but it's the first photo that fell to hand I am definitely not the only person who buys setback droppers because STAs have gotten too steep.

On my Knolly Endorphin [similar geo] with a 1" setback dropper my actual STA was ~73.5 deg....measured from BB to center of saddle rails. My pants inseam is 33".

I have a Knolly Endo. I came off a Pivot M6 which is a lovely carbon bike. I noticed no frame material related differences in the ride. Obviously not apples to apples. I'd happily buy another carbon frame if it was significantly lighter than the metal version. But carbon frames that are as heavy as a quality metal frame and cost $1K+ USD more?...No thanks.

FWIW - I put a 1" setback dropper on my Knolly because I found the STA steeper than optimal for pedalling efficiency.

I've put years on Reverbs with no post failures or maintenance for that matter. I have bled the remote lines a couple times a year. Like you the only complaint I had was the remote ergonomics. Good to see another under the bar thumb lever option.

If you want lighter lever action it seems WT has a solution: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/remote-light-action   I don't know if you can get the complete Reverb kit with this lever though.

Did you experience the dreaded XT wandering bite point failure?

Places I've ridden somewhat recently that prohibit e-bikes:

• Sedona [sign above] on most MTB trails [everything managed by USFS]

• Moab banned on all MTB trails. Okay where motos are allowed. [also USFS managed]

• Pemberton banned on non-motorized hiking and biking trails. Well signed.

• Cumberland banned on MTB trails. I didn't check the signage.

• Victoria area CRD MTB trails are banned. Not signed. Okay on Regional Trails - ie. the Goose and Lochside, etc..

Anyone out there running the same carbon rims on their AM/Enduro bike for more than 2-3 years? How far would you take them before selling them or relegating them to lighter duty?

My carbon light bicycle rims are 4yrs old in 2017. I'll be using them until they break. So far I have hammered them on rocks, pinch flatted tubless tires and still not a mark on the edges of the rims.

I've got plans to replace them. No idea how long they'll last.

Just moved to Van, have been on a santa cruz 5010 for the past season out in the kootenays where it was great. After riding mostly Fromme the 5010 feels like not enough bike. I would really like to get into the more rowdy and jumping riding. Would upgrading to the nomad kill my climbing? Should I just suck it up and get better riding the 5010….. it is such a great bike.

What fork do you have on the 5010?

Unless you've already got a burly fork up front swapping in a longer/stiffer fork would probably be all you need as it a lot cheaper than a new bike.

You won't be able to plow chunder on a 5010, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

you need to look a bit more closely at the numbers. the given hta and bb drop for the wednesday are based on a fork 20mm shorter than the one on the ict. running a 100mm fork, the hta will slacken but the bb drop number will be even smaller, so the bb will be higher. and tire size doesn't factor into bb drop - it's relative to the axle, not the ground.

The BB drop is only important relative to the ground because it determines where the BB ends up. You can run 3.8" or 4.6" on a Wed the BB drop is the same, but the BB height is different and the height is what matters.

Looking at the BB drop and not considering the tire size is meaningless when the tires are not the same.

I'd also consider the Surly folks have played around with lots of fatbike designs. If they decided that this BB drop was a good thing for the Wed considering the tires it was going to run and testing it would with a 100mm fork it may be worth actually waiting for some ride reports to come out before panning the bike. You are not going to ride a geo chart.

i want to love the wednesday. the price, suspension fork compatibility, short back end, threaded bb and tire size are all appealing. but it's a step backwards geometry-wise form the ict, with less bb drop and a steeper hta. even if surly's ringers can make it look good for the camera, the bike will likely feel weird with more than 100mm of travel up front, and i don't think that will cut it on the shore

The Wed HTA is the same as the ICT with a 100mm fork. The difference in BB drop is 5mm I can't get excited about that given that the Wed is designed to run on smaller tires than the ICT so the actual BB heights aren't going to be that much different.

They are both designed for 100mm suspension forks.

I agree I wouldn't choose either of these bikes as my main ride for the shore.

so winter is (inevitably) around the corner and I'm pretty sure I'm going to blow some cash on a fatbike this year. Whats new in the fatbike world?

with the CAD dollar being so low, suddenly the Chromag Nice Dreams looks pretty sick and is almost comparable with the Surly Ice Cream Truck as a frame only price

Has the new breed of super fat 5" tires made frames that can only fit 4" rubber obsolete?

On the other hand the Pugsley is a pretty good value for frame-only but are 4" tires wide enough? Is the 70 degree head angle going to kill me if I try to actually ride it down a trail?

So many questions, so little knowledge of all things fat :(

Here is Surly's latest fatty: http://surlybikes.com/blog/post/wednesday_new_bike_same_old_hump_day

- 170mm symetrical rear
- 150mm symetrical front
- 44mm HT takes a 100mm fork
- ICT-esque geo
- takes 4.6mm tires so not the biggest current rubber
- 100mm threaded BB

A lot of people don't need 5" fat tires. Some do. Where you ride, when you ride, how you ride and how much you weigh will all factor in.

I had a Pugs for 5-6yrs. Great bike. The geo is dated, but works just fine for general trail riding. As things get more rowdy the slacker geo on the ICT/Wed is better. Not everyone gets all that rowdy on their fatty. You'll have to decided where you fit in.

If I was buying a new fatty I'd get an ICT or Wed because I've got very little to no snow to ride in Victoria and lots of steep rocky trails to huck off. Plus they can be fit with modern forks.

Photos are all of a Pugs doing its thing. It can handle some trail riding and tech no problem. It's got a geo we've all used on our MTBs if we've been shaving for more than 10yrs. ;)

I know nothing about the Chromag fatty other than they build sweet bikes. :heart:

Not sure when you are going, but all MTB trails are closed in Cumby for the foreseeable future due to extreme fire hazard. :ohthedrama:

Do any of you take off the dropper in the muddy season just to save the hassle? This is akin to the peeps who put the dually away for the rain bike/HT…

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Nope. The riding I do isn't any less demanding in the winter so I want my bike running at full performance.

I've had good luck with droppers:

- Cranks Bros Joplin 3: 4yrs with one free service
- Crank Bros Jpolin 4: light use no service
- KS dropper: 4yrs no service
- RS Reverb qty two - 6 months no service

All of them keep rocking and rolling.

Ultimately I care more about having a dropper than spending $$ maintaining them - although as I said that hasn't been an issue.

A slightly less expensive (but not cheaper) option is the Orlieb Velocity pack. I've had mine for nearly 2 years and use it most days. Very durable, waterproof, German made and OntheRivet is a dealer.

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+1 - I've got an Ortlieb Velocity I've used nearly daily since 2008. 100% waterproof and still going strong. When it wears out I'll buy another.

I use it road biking and on my moto. I wouldn't wear it trail riding on the MTB.

It's a conspiracy.

+1 - bastards are trying to stop you from buying a new hub with every new axle standard. Who do they think they are? :fruit::lastweek: