D_C_ profile

I’d love to see suspension manufacturers taken to task on the creaky CSU issue. It’s ridiculous that this is still a thing. I assume that the economics support accepting a high warranty rate rather than putting more money into addressing the problems.

I’m less fussed about the rims. In my experience, most alloy rims are pretty similar, in that I kill them sooner or later. Having a good 32 hole non-proprietary hub that is worth building the next rim onto is far more important to me.

The only weak point on the spec is the DT 370 hubs. At that price, you should get 350s. If they need to cut costs somewhere, the rear hub is not the place to do it. Give me an SLX derailleur if that's what it takes...

Otherwise, the build looks well put-together.

You might be able to do a coil conversion (like Vorsprung or Push) on your Lyrik. The dual position forks lack the dimple on the inside of the stanchion to equalize positive and negative pressure, but I don't see why that would be an issue with coil.

I was quite happy with the Der Baron/Trail King combo year-round on my hardtail. I found they gripped in the wet as well as anything. They did seem to weep more sealant than other tires, though, especially after a few months of life.

On another note, I tried a 2.35 Ikon in back last year that I put on for the Nimby. It also had a surprising amount of grip, but the rear end gave out without warning when pumping into a flatter corner at speed on Bobsled, putting me flat on my butt. It was at that point that I recognized that a fast-rolling tire is better to have decent side knobs for any sort of fast riding.

I swore by the Slaughter for a couple years, but after a new bike came with a DHR in back, it wasn’t as soul-crushing to pedal around as I expected, compared to the semi-slick. I found the Slaughter to be surprisingly versatile and it never really let me down, but dropping into something like a steep chute with wet, soft dirt, the tire was always in the back of my mind. So now I run grippier treads in back.

Just don’t call them a moped :D

The advocacy portion of @Vik Banerjee's post is the salient point, and the part that is worth discussing/debating/acknowledging.

But I also note that the 464 mm reach on the large is on the conservative side, so the bike might play well with lower bars since you're not that stretched out.

The less rear travel you have, the less steep your static (unsagged) seat angle needs to be. As rear suspension sags and bobs under pedalling, the seat angle becomes slacker.

My Chromag Rootdown has a 76 degree seat angle and I actually find the need to slide the seat back on its rails to not feel uncomfortably perched forward on all but the steepest climbs. In contrast, a 76+ degree seat angle on an enduro bike feels pretty normal since it might sag to something like 73 degrees under weight and pedalling.

Posted by: ReductiMat

Posted by: D_C_

Fun day in the bike park today! Trails are running great. More Duff is a nice fresh addition. I have a mask tan now.

Other than the jump trails, what are the best Fitz laps on a trail bike?

More Duff is great stuff.

I think trail bikes looking for new stuff are best left in the Creekside area.

Yeah the creekside stuff is great on a trail bike, as is the Duffman zone. I dabbled into some Fitz tech trails (Joyride, Canadian Open DH course) and while they are entirely rideable on my Devinci Troy, I felt like they’d be more fun on a bigger bike (or maybe it’s just knowing the lines).

Fun day in the bike park today! Trails are running great. More Duff is a nice fresh addition. I have a mask tan now.

Other than the jump trails, what are the best Fitz laps on a trail bike?

I think suspensionwerx is servicing Rockshox now.

This should be required reading: https://nsmb.com/articles/ten-laws-loam/

Posted by: shore_flea

Just a few pleasant reminders when riding trails that may not be obvious to everyone

- wait until dry (don't ride when soggy)

- leave entrance covered (or add a few branches)

- for the love of mike, turn yur Strava off

That is all.

And don’t hang out/ gear up at entrances or exits. Drop in quickly out of view of others and make a clean break when you’re done.

How were the lineups this weekend?

Are your rims carbon or alloy? I am new to carbon rims and have found that any tape I have used has stuck more poorly than to alloy.

Posted by: earleb

No need to bleed or change the oil, this is as simple as an air can service or adding tokens. I stuffed a homemade shim in mine last summer, from memory I think these travel spacers sit down under the tokens.

The stock Rockshox travel spacers are concentric to the shock shaft, I think, which requires pulling the shock apart to put them on. I also read that the IFP height needs to be set differently depending on shock stroke.

This has some info: https://www.pinkbike.com/u/PHeller/blog/air-shock-stroke-adjustments-via-bumpers-what-changes.html

I ended up getting Fluid Function to do mine.

Thanks for your efforts to stay on top of this. Please keep us in the loop and let us know when us showing up is needed.