D_C_ profile

Well, that was insane.

Also, I was one of the people who rode by your group yesterday and said you were nuts. I still think that is the case. It was greasy out there!

The recent work on Bookwus has improved the riding experience while maintaining the previous character of the trail. It was well done.

That said, with other examples of under-utilized expert trails being revamped to something completely different from the original nature of the trail and the difficulty of sanctioning a completely new trail in North Van, I can see how something like an official trailhead sign and a top-to-bottom tune-up on Bookwus could have people nervous. I don't see Bookwus being rerouted as a flow trail any time soon, but it would be a real shame if that happened.

On the flip side, I appreciate how a derelict, neglected trail can be revamped into something that can be enjoyed by many. I am not one of the 'dumbing down the Shore' types. But trails like Bookwus, Grannies, etc. need to exist.

Also, whether you agree or disagree with a direction, nothing justifies sabotaging official trail work.

@Andrew Major - I am curious to know how these ride-ending flats are happening on the Shore. It’s just not that jagged here. I can count my flats in the last 3 years on 1 hand, and that includes some time spent enduro racing. I think maybe 1 one those flats was a puncture and the other couple were bad rim dents, and I generally run EXO-ish tires. I tried inserts but the key for me is adequate tire pressure. Maybe I’m just lucky. And I am also willing to deal with the increased risk of flatting to not have to pedal around 1400 g tires.

Sure, if you run heavy tires, you are even less likely to flat, but I think many riders would be surprised what they can get away with using lighter casings, and how lighter tires bring their bike to life in terms of versatility.

These sound good, but the 1400 g+ weight is a deal-breaker (I happily ride casings down to EXO/EXO+ with no inserts). Too bad the SE5 only comes in harder rubber.

All this being said, there is no consistent way that effective STA is measured across brands and varies with saddle height. Steep STAs are fashionable and help sell bikes to non-hardtail riders looking at the numbers, but it’s hard to know what you’re getting until you sit on the bike.

I’ve only ridden hardtails with super short chainstays (Chromags and Konas) but it hasn’t felt weird to me. Could it be that, because the rear wheel doesn’t move vertically relative to the rest of the frame under load and pumping like a full suspension, a shorter rear end on a hardtail will give a similar sense of balance? I could see long chainstays on a hardtail making it potentially quite difficult to get the front end up, and might be a bit overwhelming when the rear end goes over a square hit, which is translated directly to pitching you forward. Just my theory...

I’d be interested to hear from people with experience with both short and long rear ends on hardtails.

Only the fork sags, so the sagged bb drop is probably similar to many full suspensions. You definitely would not want a hardtail with a 339 mm static bb height.

How did the super steep seat angle feel on the hardtail? Because only the fork sags, the seat angle gets even steeper that what’s stated. Based on my experience with other hardtails, 73 degrees feels pretty normal and 76 feels borderline too steep. But I’m interested in your thoughts.

I also agree that the message is understood.

That said, using terms like “loamhound”, even if tongue in cheek, risks glorifying poor behaviour that results in us not being able to have nice things. If you leave your Strava public, blab to all your friend on social media, ride straight into hidden entrances and ride soft trails in wet conditions, I have some terms other than “loamhound” to describe you. That unnamed trail is not your new Expresso.

Posted by: Vikb

On a HT the STA gets steeper with sag and on a FS bike it gets slacker with sag

This. The 76 degree seat angle on my Rootdown (same geometry as Primer) feels steeper than the 77 degree seat angle on my Sight. Also, differences in actual seat angle can result in an effective seat angle at your saddle height that is different from what is on the geometry chart.

Similar pricing to Hope Pro 4 and DT 350, which are proven products. But if they achieve a similar level of performance/durability, it’s good to have another option.

Hand wash with mild detergent (like woolite).

How old is the tire? Sounds like it may be finished.

I’ve warrantied a couple of Maxxis tires that have gone wobbly. Just fill out their online form. They are great to deal with.

I paid $1000 new for my 2014 Kona Taro. It had the same geometry as the Honzo but was made from aluminum and had a budget spec, including 1x9 drivetrain and a 120 mm Rockshox Sektor. That bike absolutely ripped.

Here it is, after adding a $100 KS e-ten dropper but otherwise stock.

Edit: this was the 2013 model but I bought it in 2014. I rode the bike for several years and even piloted it to a Fiver (maybe still Toonie at the time?) hardtail class victory. It was so capable for an entry level bike. It shows that good geometry and functional parts are all you need.

Posted by: T-mack

I'm running Der Baron front and Der Kaiser rear and love them. Mostly ride steep roots at Burke but they handle the berms very nicely as well, lots of support. Also the Baron sheds mud so fast its crazy.

How do you find the Der Kaiser in back? Does it roll slow? Looks pretty aggressive.

I’ve never ridden DT rims, but my experience with $100-$150 alloy rims is that they all perform fairly similarly. Just pick the weight/width for the type of riding you want to do and replace them when there are too many dents/flat spots.

For hubs, I’m happy if I have Hope or DT 350 and couldn’t see splurging on fancier ones. Cheaper than that and you lose reliability and ability to repair broken internals.

I would take Hope/DT 350 and reliable, cost effective carbon rims (e.g. We Are One) over fancy hubs and alloy rims.

Posted by: Kenny

What else is everyone looking at for winter boots? 

I'm a between - 

new schwalbe nobby nic v3 and Hans dampf in super ground casing, soft

Der baron Projekt 2.4 black chilli

Michelin wild enduro.

Apparently Assegai Exo+ MaxxGrip has landed on shelves in a few local shops.

Between Wild Enduro and Der Baron, I found the Der Baron to handle wet roots a bit better, whereas the Wild Enduro digs into soft dirt like a claw.

I saw some on the wall at Obsession.

^^^

If you’re looking for Maxx Grip type rubber, it doesn’t get much lighter than a Minion EXO. The DHR II tends to be lighter than the DHF and makes a nice front tire, so you could try that.