@slyfink Here we go… Slyfink has said that it dives too much and doesn’t stay up in its travel but in my experience, it hasn’t been an issue.
Jokes aside, I really haven't found that to be a problem. Check out the picture above of the "buttery smooth farm track". That photo was just metres before the finish line of stage three on day three (I believe), and as you can see I am under full braking (from about 40mph). There's not too much dive there and you can see I am pretty centered over the bikes still. This is one situation when brake dive can be an issue, but wasn't for me. I didn't find it a problem when braking heavy into dead-stop hairpins either. It is on these turns that weight is most certainly pushed over the front to help initiate the Euro-Hairpin-Hop, or nose pivot. Honestly, I haven't found it to be a problem but perhaps I prefer setting my forks stiffer to start with.
Doddy from MBUK today informed me that he prefers the 34 with 25cc's added to the air chamber of the 34 as this makes it a little more progressive. I'm no scientist but this could be a fix if you find the fork too linear.
@Leith It's excellent to hear that you are a experienced rider however, don't discredit the fork because it isn't complex enough for you. You can still take it apart and do the real tuning to it if that makes you feel better. Don't worry, the other nerds won't think any less of you just because you have the CTD fork.
Personally, I feel CTD is excellent and not just for "beginners". It is easy and far easier to use on the trail and on the move. To get over the "wallowy" feel that Syngltrkmnd and Morgman refer to, I set more air into the fork (not a cigarette paper over 20% sag) and run "T" in the softest setting. This keeps "D" all taut, like I want when things get rowdy, but keeps the fork compliant when I'm rolling trail. However, the beauty of the CTD is that if I visit new trails and I feel the "T" setting is too soft then I can firm it up on-the-fly without altering the "D".
To @ibeaver, yes Fabien was running 36s, but have you seen him ride or the set up he personally rides with? He is not human and his set up is designed to work for him. I don't think this fork should replace the 36, but that perhaps some people (meaning the trails they ride on and the way they ride) would benefit from the 34 over a 36. This is an additional choice.
Why are manufacturers speccing 34s on big boy bruiser bikes like the Enduro or Slash? Perhaps they found that most people that buy these bikes really don't need a 36 up front after all. Or perhaps they are making a monumental mistake by speccing the wrong fork. Perhaps the very few people that actually buy these bikes won't notice or perhaps the hardcore semi-freeride, ride-all-day segment of the market just doesn't exist (or translate to sales) and manufacturers are trying to get more people onto these types of bikes. I don't know, which is all I know.
I personally think having the sturdiest fork up front is important (tracking, handling, stability, control are of highest importance for the riding I like and where I ride) and I would rather see bikes come over specced on the front bouncers than unbalanced with not enough up front and more on the rear. There is a few manufacturers who keep underspeccing the forks on their bikes, leaving otherwise excellent bikes neutered and castrated. This is a shame. However, I do think that unless you are a Shire horse or very accomplished rider you might be jumping the gun to discredit the Fox 34 for daily driver duties. Not think of it as a tame and lame 36, but rather a busty and muscly 32.