I’ve seen a broken one already in Bellingham, under a rider that is maybe a buck fifty :)
Cam, have you noticed any quirks from the OneUp dropper? I've had one for a few months and not too many rides. from the get go it struggles with the last 1/2" or travel on the way up. Seat collar is as loose as it will go without slipping down. It seems like a tight upper nylon bushing. I can remove the upper bushing (after unscrewing the cap) and the post slams up no problem. With the bushing in and the collar crewed tight, it struggles. I've improved things by sanding the out diameter of the bushing to free up the clearance a bit, but it still is a bit inconsistent. I'm sure a little more grease and maybe try a new bushing from them might help, but I'm curious if it's common. How's yours?
I'm pretty sure you still need to bleed brakes on a Prius, there still are lines. Do you mean regeneration?
But you won't get that answer out of a Product manager :-)
Is your idea of long based on wheelbase or roominess?
And spending $15K, one better be happy with 45lbs and probably obsolete (next year) geometry. Sign me up when geometry progression dies down and they drop 10lbs. I'm one of those guys that always rides from lower lonsdale to Fromme (if I choose Fromme). I'd be all over taking 30 minutes off my ride when I'm strapped for time, but I will absolutely NOT accept a compromised downhill experience because the bike weighs 45 lbs. I want it to handle the way by current bike handles, and I guess until then I slog it out :-)
The last few years I've been running the Fox forks with more tokens and open as recommended by some reputable tuners. However this year, suspensionwerx recommended just the one token that came with my Sentinel, and keeping it around the recommended dial settings (RC2). Has been fantastic, had me wondering why I didn't tune it this way in the past.
My 2018 Performance Elite RC2 was creak free on my Sentinel until about month 6. Still one of the better, most consistent feeling forks I've owned. But yeah, creaks are very, VERY common this year, again....
Maybe it's the really slack bikes these days putting a lot of stress on the CSU. That being said, Jerry is right, they should have invested some of their money into 1 piece CSUs or SOMETHING that makes them creak free!
Great article Andrew! It's good you mentioned the warm light. I don't ride that often at night but when I do I have the somewhat cheapy Gemini lights which are crazy bright but very white and hard (?) that reflect off the trees almost too much making it hard to get much depth perception. Nevertheless it's enough light to be safe :-)
Seriously short head tube. Anybody that rides these super slack creations (me included) have been adding a fair amount of spacers. on my Sentinel...64degrees drops the front a lot, and that something a lot of us weren't prepared for when we first set them up.
and...you don't want to drop this bike on one of your mile high skinnies;-) Seriously though, try out a longer reach bike, you'll be surprised that they maybe aren't as roomy as the #s suggest as Andrew says. You don't want a longer stem than a 40mm on these. You do take some unique lines though that may requires some extra hopping :-)
From all accounts his Norco DH design is proving to be really successful, can't wait to see more of these -alternative- designs show up in the lower travel.
Yeah but you have Style for Miles :-)
App. 80g lighter than a 170 turbine with a 30t give or take. I can confirm the Turbines can take a hell of a lot of abuse. This is my first set of ALu cranks in a long time, and looking at the deep gouges from a couple stacks this summer...I'll happily continue to use them. And only about $200CAD retail, hard to beat.
The real question is, should one risk showing up at a FIVER without carbon??? ;-)