Most ladies prefer a women's saddle to a guy's saddle, controlling for things like width and padding. Most guys can't tell the difference between the two. SRSLY. The bike industry would be well served to make all stock saddles female-friendly, and make guy's saddles aftermarket for the few that need them.
Is that a Neutra house?
Is it okay to nickname this brake the "Juicy XT"?
I wear practical stuff. My favourite biking jersey is a synthetic shirt my wife got in a squash tournament that was way too big for her. Shants for the daily commute to work, full Lycra for road rides, a big shirt to fit over the armor for DH. The things that visibly identify me as a cyclist are sock/short/glove/jersey tan lines, scars on my shins and somewhat overdeveloped calf muscles. That, and riding a bike 300+ days/year. I don't feel the need to look like I ride
That was Ahab and the main slickrock trail in… mid-October?
You forgot road SS/FG with brakes [for winter training], track bike [for track riding] and heavy-ass chrome-stay downtube-shifter carbon-free lugged euro- trash paint scheme "classic" with Shimano 600 or Campy Croce d'Aune [and tubulars].
LOVE Dope/Not Dope.
I seriously had to do a double-take on this. Titus El Guapo @ $1000 frame with shock or $2k complete [current stock going end-of-line]. 26″ to boot. Just saying…
Review of the 2014 Crank Brothers Wheels:
10/10. I was expecting "build trail" to be in there. "Bleed", "get lost", "teach someone to ride" should be there too.
A few things:
- You need a stronger rim because of the higher load at fewer points on the rim. There's not really any way around it, paired spokes or no. Given two wheels using the same type and size of rim, the one with the greater number of spokes will be stronger. To create two wheels of equal strength, but with one having 32 spokes and the other 24 spokes [assuming similar hubs are used], the 24 spoke wheel must have a stronger/stiffer rim. Physics says so. So does Jobst Brandt, and he literally wrote the book on this stuff.
- A significant [more than a few mm] flat spot in your rim means you have bent it inwards towards the hub. Since your spokes can't resist this bending force [no strength in compression!], the number of spokes and their placement is largely irrelevant. If you want to unbend your rim, you can try your luck with any number of presses or pulls, hydraulic or otherwise.
- A less significant flat spot in your rim can be taken out by tightening the spokes on the opposite side of the rim and loosening the ones at the site of the flat spot. This is the sort of thing you do when building a wheel up with a new rim that's slightly out of round.
- Regarding a wheel going out of true ["lateral failure"], more spokes makes a wheel more resistant to this. That is to say, the wheel is stronger with more spokes. All other things being equal, a 32-spoke wheel is inherently stronger and more resistant to going out of true than, for example, a 24-spoke wheel.
Gotcha on the opposite directions thing. Like anything else, it's a tradeoff. Fewer paired spokes requires a stronger [heavier?] rim to handle the higher load per spoke pair. OTOH, using lots of spokes would let you use a weaker/lighter rim [and potentially lighter spokes] 'cause the distance between spokes at the rim would be so short, and the resultant stress lower per spoke. The fact that most wheels use an extruded aluminum rim limits what you can do in terms of removing excess material, allowing one to keep strength whilst reducing weight. Perhaps 3D printing will yield a solution!
With regard to the wider rims, IMHO they are a wee bit on the narrow side. Personal preference of course. To me, it looks like they're playing catch-up…
My bad, I saw diameter and thought width. Kind of a reflex, what with the trend to ever-wider rims. I'd assume the diameter at the bead seat is "standard", and that the rim is slightly higher just outside the center channel. Hmmm. Might be tricky to mount tires if they're on the snug side.
I think the rim is one of the more failure-prone areas of the wheel. It takes a lot of effort to break a spoke, but denting a sidewall or putting a flat spot in a rim is pretty commonplace. The vast majority of hub failures I've noted aren't due to the "wheel" part [flanges, axles, body] failing, rather, they're an issue with the freehub/drive mechanism or a crapped-out bearing. If you trash your freehub, it doesn't affect the wheel's strength, just the drivetrain's ability to function. Remove the chain and you can still coast.
As for placing stresses on the wheel "via spokes that pull in opposite directions", it's because the spokes have almost no strength in compression. Something like a wagon wheel or a tri-spoke have strength in compression and tension, and don't need to rely on the same configuration as a spoked wheel. I'm not sure if this is what you're getting at, so we may be talking about different things…
Inside rim width is 21/23/26 for the Cobalt/Iodine/Opium. For the Cobalt/Iodine, this is roughly what the DT 4.1 and 5.1 rims were at 5+ years ago.
With regard to why bike wheels are the way they are, it's probably because the basic spoked design works pretty well. Light enough to be pushed along by human-scale power, but also strong enough to handle most human-scale stresses for years at a time. Having lots of spokes spreads the load around the rim, reducing the effect of a single point of failure. Fault-tolerance is a good thing. I can't imagine how you'd make a cast/forged wheel [like on a car] that would compete with a traditional bike wheel for strength at a reasonable weight. Carbon could work…?
I guess what bugs me about these wheels is that it's just style. Are these wheels really an improvement over traditional 32-spoke wheels? Are they really stiffer/stronger/longer-lasting than a regular wheelset that I can get for the same/less weight and money? It sure doesn't look like it to me…
That was awesome! Missing "rigid single speed" from the bike list.