Cheez1ts profile

I've gotten into skinnies for the first time in my life since your scare yourself article, thanks Andrew!

That fork sounds brutal. I think I’d rather have no damper than an inconsistent one.

It would be nice if low end forks came with a high-end compatible chassis (I.e straight 32mm or 34mm stanchions). As you mentioned with finding an old Saint calliper for the brakes, you could probably find old high-end dampers and springs to upgrade the suspension from old forks with worn stanchions or leaky air-springs. Suntour could ship their fork with the double-springs and plastic top caps, and the buyer could easily find new internals from friends or the buy’n’sell. Suntour would get the added bonus of their name still being on the chassis too.

In my personal experience it doesn’t seem to matter how wide or firm a saddle is. When I move into a more aggressive position for a steep climb, I roll off my sit-bones. The narrower the saddle, the more upright I need to be to stay on my sit-bones.

The photos for this piece are perfect. Great job Andrew.

After seeing the price, I'm now curious why there's all this hype for the new Hayes? They're priced pretty close to the Code RSC, and far above the Code R.

Thank you for throwing the comparison in there AJ!

I've been calling the Trance my next bike since I rented one in Salt Lake City a couple of years ago, expecting to toodle about on XC trails, but ending up in bike parks and other non-xc terrain. That was the 27.5 version. I'm happy to see the new model get the nod from you.

I learned long ago on a Specialized Enduro that geometry isn't everything, if the suspensions platform doesn't jive with my riding style, I'd rather be on a hardtail.

I ran avid/code rotors, developed a leak in the rear code lever, pulled the TRPs off my enduro bike and put them on my DH bike. i didn’t like them so I swapped the TRP pads to Shimano. Then swapped both rotors to bigger Magura’s. then gave up and put the front code back on and am dealing with the rear. The TRPs were on Shimano rotors on the enduro, but they didn’t see too many rides and had the stock pads. The MT5s on the same Shimano rotors feel pretty good already even with the stock pads.

Yeah, I have Shimano pads front and back. I gave up on the front pretty quick though. I’m still running the TRP rear, but I put an old code on the front for the majority of this season.

I bought the TRPs. They’ll probably end up on my hard tail. 

Not enough power for my liking in the bike park, and I’m 180lbs. I even tried upping the rotor size to old Magura’s that were 210 (?) front and 203 rear. 

Someone in the lift line at whistler asked me about them, and I replied that I was actually wanting to ask the guy beside me who also happened to have them what he thought because I was finding they didn’t have enough power. Guy beside me in the lift line was offended and told me yeah he has to brake with two fingers sometimes, but they have ample power. Dude that asked me responded that yeah, his kid had them and found they didn’t have enough power either. 

I bought a set of the Magura MT5s for a good price from Germany. They’re feeling more powerful than the TRPs so far on the enduro bike, and they were cheaper. They’re also mineral oil and have the plastic lever for cold days.  I’ll have them on the downhill bike next season, but it was too big of a pain to do the internal cable routing at the end of the season, especially considering I’d like to have them back on the enduro bike this winter.

I bought the TRPs. They’ll probably end up on my hard tail. 

Not enough power for my liking in the bike park, and I’m 180lbs. I even tried upping the rotor size to old Magura’s that were 210 (?) front and 203 rear. 

Someone in the lift line at whistler asked me about them, and I replied that I was actually wanting to ask the guy beside me who also happened to have them what he thought because I was finding they didn’t have enough power. Guy beside me in the lift line was offended and told me yeah he has to brake with two fingers sometimes, but they have ample power. Dude that asked me responded that yeah, his kid had them and found they didn’t have enough power either. 

I bought a set of the Magura MT5s for a good price from Germany. They’re feeling more powerful than the TRPs so far on the enduro bike, and they were cheaper. They’re also mineral oil and have the plastic lever for cold days.  I’ll have them on the downhill bike next season, but it was too big of a pain to do the internal cable routing at the end of the season, especially considering I’d like to have them back on the enduro bike this winter.

From the Whistler Blackcomb Twitter, Fitz remains closed until Wednesday, and sightseeing is uploading from Balckcomb Gondola until then.

I'll be up there for the first time this year tomorrow.

Similar to what DaveM asked, can I pre-purchase a day pass online and load it onto the Vail card reader I have from last year's season pass?

What fork and shock do you have?

Rockshox service manuals are usually available and pretty easy to follow and don't need proprietary tools (although I haven’t rebuilt a charger damper yet). I think the seal kit is usually $65, oil isn’t expensive if you get it from Lordco or a motorcycle shop, and as long as you have some patience and a space to drain and refill oil, you should be able to get it done within a couple of hours. 

I’ve always done my RS forks, but I recently did the rear shock too and it wasn’t much more difficult. I did have to buy one $12 adapter, but it was still cheaper to do myself.

Invergarry bike park in surrey isn't too too far from coquitlam and there's a pump track and green trail for the little ones.

How are the lineups on the weekend?

I've been trying to go when I can get a day off work during the week, but I haven't gone yet as a result.

I'll volunteer to bring you some beer for it tomorrow after work. I've PMed you.

Posted by: shoreboy

Posted by: Brocklanders

Did a ride with the this aft, pumped up my pressure a bit from 90 to 100 psi and have to say felt better in that it wasn't collapsing as bad, but only drawback was I noticed I'm not using all my travel. Will put a couple tokens in this weekend and see if that makes a difference.

When you say collapsing, do you mean it sinks into its travel under its own weight? The new air spring upgrade is aimed at fixing this, as it is a common design trait on the older air springs. It was designed to make the fork feel more supple on initial stroke, but some riders find it too supple (which I what I think you are saying).

I'm not 100% confident on this, but I thought it was just a design flaw of this particular generation of pike due to RockShox cheeping out/lightening up the air spring. 

I think the first gen Lyric solo air had the same design, but not the same problems because it had an aluminum disk separating the positive and negative air spring. The new pikes changed this piece to plastic. The plastic binds and allows the positive air spring to add pressure to the negative air chamber under compression.

With enough pressure being added to the negative spring, the fork will eventually feel very "collapsed". Because the negative air spring has the largest effect on the initial stroke of travel, pumping up the positive chamber makes the initial stroke feel better, but now prevents you from getting full travel.

You could test if an overly-sprung negative spring is the problem by letting all of the air out of the fork and see if it sucks itself all the way down to zero travel.

If it is the problem, just follow some of Hepcat's instructions to remove the air spring. Once you have it out, re-grease it and put it back together. This will get the correct air pressure in the negative spring again and make the fork feel brand new. If you don't have any tools, it's the cost of C-clip pliers, a bit of grease, and 30W oil. It's probably not impossible to find someone in the fromme or seymour parking lot that would have all of the tools in their car to do this for you in the time it took them to drink a beer.

If I was light enough to ride the stock air spring, I would.

Posted by: D_C_

And we're back to our regular programming. Fromme lot was full at 5:30 with a line of cars waiting to park.

What time does the gate close? Is it 9pm again?

I had the same fork and damper and also wasn't running any tokens with the stock setup. I didn't like how often I had to service the spring side, but it felt a lot better if I did it every few rides. If you haven't dissembled the spring side and greased everything back up recently, that's probably all you need to do to make your fork feel brand new again.

If the new air spring was released when I was looking for a solution I might have gone that route, but instead I converted it to coil using the Push Industries kit. I do miss the ability to adjust air pressure as my weight fluctuates over the winter/summer/years, but I also like that my fork always feels good and doesn't require service nearly as often.

I also swapped out the Charger damper for an Avalanche Open-Bath Damper. It makes thr fork feel good. It was not cheap.

I probably could have just gotten away with upgrading the spring side and been happy. I don't remember being unhappy with the Charger, but I was working way more than I was riding at the time and decided it was worth it to just go all out.

Posted by: LoamtoHome

Already heard a particular user have gone through 3 CSU's....  high speed compression is also non existent.  Vorsprung has a comprehensive breakdown of the fork.  Boxxer at 180mm is the best option right now but it needs a lot of work to make it work...  like 9 tokens.  Hoping the new 38mm RS is better than the other options.

I have put very little thought into if this, but is this what would go into it?

• Buy a boxxer with desired offset (-$$$)

• Find a worn stanchion from one of the 2010+ boxxer models, you'll be sticking it 20mm deeper into the lowers anyway so the wear won't matter (-$)

• Find an air spring assembly from a Yari/Lyric (prevents you from needing to add any spacers below your boxxer's air spring) (-$)

• Drill a hole in the yari/lyric air spring (now it's not an air spring).

• Get a coil spring from the 2010+ Boxxers (-$)

• Assemble the coil and drilled air spring in your worn stanction

• Put that in your fork and drop your damper to match height

• Keep your original stanchion and air spring to re-assemble it correctly later for resale (+$$$)

Please do not use these as directions.