Excellent app for keeping track of maintenance.
I meet so many guests for either guiding or coaching that roll up on $8-10K full suspension bikes.
The first thing I notice is that their contact points are usually poorly set up.
The first thing that they say to me is: "I'm not sure that my suspension is set up properly", or even worse ;"I am not sure how much air I should run in my rear shock".
I suggest spending a couple of hours on a suspension tuning ride session as part of their ride day and the answer is nearly always "Nah I just want to go and ride" or "I'm too busy to spend time setting up my bike".
I am guessing that probably 50% of riders are not getting what they could out of their bike because they are too lazy to spend 2-5 of their 20-100 riding days per year setting up their bike properly.
There is nothing wrong with a good hard tail and there is, as supported by many here, far less to set up and far less to maintain, but not a lot less than can be ridden (with the appropriate speed and line).
Gary from BBInfinite recommends not filling more than 60% as there needs to be room for the grease to move about and so the bearings can actually roll. Not an engineer so don't know if this is true or not but can say that they are doing something correct with their pixie dust as their bottom brackets are the best I have used in 28 years and seem to survive our PNW wet, dust, mud drivetrain (and entire bike) destroying conditions.
I can confirm that the Cascade Components link for the Sight makes an awesome bike even more awesome-er for a 95 kg 6'2" rider on an XL on steep and chunky Sea to Sky trails.
It provides a more sensitive bottom end (initial stroke), which is most noticeable when climbing slimy, janky tech trails; a slightly better mid travel support (not that this is an issue with the RS Super Deluxe) and a smidge more pop; and the bottom out is almost un-noticeable (more of a case of "oh the o-ring has popped of the shock tube").
Did I notice the travel increase to 155 mm - not really. But I also used full travel and never contacted the frame with the rear tyre/ wheel.
It does add almost half a pound to the bike (didn't notice it - just stating that fact - if you are a weight weenie you probably aren't on a Sight anyway). The Sight version is not as sexy as it could be, being formed from three pieces and connected with some non titanium (cue "intake of breath from shock) bolts. I bet they could machine a one piece that is lighter and sexier but I am guessing that it would take a lot more machine time which must be the largest component of the cost.
I was informed, in clear Canadian English, that using the link would void my frame warranty (but no reason offered, I am guessing that it is because the frame has been tested with the OE link and not the Cascade link).
And it is ano purple - like all good aluminium components should be #1993forever #orangeisafruit
I tried the Tannus Tubelss insert with my We Are One wheels on my Sight and Optic and quite frankly they did not do anything to allow a lower tyre pressure (20-22 psi front and 22-25 psi rear Michelin WILD Enduro GUM-X tyres) so they got ditched as 'not worth the additional pfaff' for no real reward (* for my riding style and terrain).
I have installed them on my e-Sight (I know I know!) as it came with a DT Swiss Hybrid 1700 wheel set and I don't love the e-Sight enough to warrant another set of We Are One wheels.
(the e-Sight is a necessary work related 'evil' in my life - I get quite a few e-bike trail guiding/ coaching days through the summer and loath riding a loaner bike, that is off in the set up/ fit, even more than I generally loath the idea of owning an e-bike).
I see the Tannus as an effective way to preserve an alloy rim on a heavy-as e-bike, especially whilst I learn to ride it properly ie timing of pops, manuals and jumps etc. I can see a few heavy hits in its future and I had the Tannus Tubeless sitting in the workshop as I hadn't got around to selling them yet.
I also dabbled with Cushcore XC and they did allow a lowering of 1-2 psi and provided better run-flat side wall support, not as much as the Pro version but the XC version was only 9/10 on the hernia install and pfaff scale versus the 10/10 on the scale for the Pro (including using a tyre fitting trash can and the Cushcore tyre lever/ threatener!).
By comparison the Tannus Tubeless are about a 5/10 on the same scale.
The Tannus do scar up from use so I expect that they have an obvious fatigue life.
@TH - how warm are they please?
Large hands and medium length fingers so sounds as though their weird fit might just work for me.
Don't wear gloves until 0ºC anyway so these might fill the gap between 'hands' weather and poggies weather.
I am not sure which scares me more: the saddle angle or the head tube angle. Nice suspension though.
Canfield do make nice stuff.
I have been aware of the crank - power - efficiency studies for quite some time as I am quite interested in bike fit and ergonomics as part of being a guide/ coach.
I am actually planning on going crazy and treating myself to a set of these:
Probably 165 mm and hopefully for SRAM DM so I can continue to run my Wolftooth CAMO and Stainless chain ring set up. The question is cerakote or ano purple?
If one is going to be different it might as well be really different.
The Blur TR sale was a dilemma. I wanted to keep it for nostalgia and the sheer giggle factor but I also knew it was going to get ridden less and less and I wanted someone else to get enjoyment from riding it.
I have stopped at 170 mm because it is almost impossible to get the better trail cranks in 165 mm (and no one chime about the fact that a certain brand that might begin with r makes them - I said better trail cranks).
For reference I used to run 177.5 mm or 180 mm cranks on a track bike so I appreciate the benefits of a longer crank where a ground strike is not going to launch me sideways off the track or over the bars.
But I am more of a spinner than a pusher of cranks as well.
6'2" tall, 33" inseam. Cleats almost all the way to the rear of the tracks (maybe 9 mm forward), definitely between ball of foot and front of arch of the foot. I am a toe in - heel out kind of rider (it helps engage the vastus lateralis as we are naturally really good at engaging the vastus medialis). No knee pain including in the twice reconstructed left knee.
As a fer instance I have the 2020 Optic (XL), as my 'little' bike and love the way it rides but the natural fit on my 2020 Sight (XL) is better due to that design team's commitment to the steeper seat tube.
One can only achieve so much 'fit' variance by slamming seat rails forward after all.
That said there is not a lot that cannot be ridden (albeit perhaps a little slower and with less 'safety' margin) on the Optic, and similar 'short travel' bikes and it is certainly enough bike for 90% of riders on 90% of trails.
However Norco created the Unicorn with the 2020 Sight so it is a hard act to follow/ compare to for other bikes but most trails do not 'need' at 150/170 mm bike.
My SC BlurTR was a fun bike and the main reason I stopped using 175 mm cranks (& will never go back to them) as when that VPP sagged mid hit it was pedal strike galore. Running a short travel bike with a low BB certainly improved my pedal timing and ratcheting skills!
@AM Nice write up as always.
Ref your point about chain guides and NW chain rings for chain retention. They are not there for chain retention but rather reducing lateral play which reduces wear to the chain which reduces wear to the $250-700 cassette.
We (mountain bikers) also regularly back pedal (even if it is only 1/8-1/4 of the clock) an unloaded chain that is being trashed about by the trail impacts and suspension movement so a chain guide helps keep that little chain of links where it ought to be rather than off either side of the chain ring when we are getting tech and or rowdy.
OneUp (obviously they sell them so they have a vested interest) wrote a piece about it a while back.
Kudos for mentioning the well known (in the S2S) tip of running the size of chain ring that allows one to avoid the 50-51-52T alloy cog other than when totally gassed and competing with a mountain goat. Obviously there is no issue pedalling 34T in Chicago (XX1 standard chain ring size).
The other 'tip' is to run a non boost chain ring on a 'boost' system to optimise the chain line for the lower/ bigger gears that one spends hours pedalling and grunting in versus optimised for the higher/ smaller gears that one might spend 10 minutes per ride pedalling in to maintain momentum when already going quite fast.
I would really like NS Billet to start making steel NW chain rings so I can buy more local than Minnesota!!
As I read this, on the day after Remembrance Day, and having had some pretty shit days and lost a lot of friends during my 16 years of service, I remember that any day that I get to ride my bike, even if it is just a wheelie session on the driveway, is a great day.
A great day for me.
And I remember that I don't give two fluffs about what anyone else is doing or not doing with or without their bike on any given day.
"The chunky boi Death Grips were not my cup of tea, as I personally prefer a very thin grip (I’d run hockey tape if my joints would tolerate it)." - Agree totally with the XL Death Grips - thanks for assuming that a rider on an L or XL had catcher's mittens for hands!
The slimmest awesome grips currently available are called LoamLab grips - you're welcome.
"The Deity Skywire handlebar looks the business with slick graphics and a flex pattern that falls somewhere between “quite stiff” and “Good lord, is that really necessary?”." - my experience exactly. Another attempt at a fan boi pleasing 35 mm handlebar that might be suitable for a WC level DH racer who only has to hold on for 3-6 minutes.