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SilentJ's posts

105 posts found

July 19, 2015, 3:49 p.m.
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Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
Some pics from Calgary

quick jaunt this morning. this spot is about 2.2km up the trail from where I can park so carrying the saw sucks. definitely some pushing coming up, but the ride out is pretty easy. odd how the BOB pushes the bike around. got the big 24" x 3.0 to keep things squishy back there. sort of wanting to swap over to a fat bike wheel for some extra cushion.

new fad is 26x26x24.

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Some product. these are 30" long… this will be a rebuild of a section that has been neglected, not to mention never reached its potential. going for 100' of gaps in a fairly short section of trail….4, maybe 5 jamps….:|
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July 19, 2015, 3:42 p.m.
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Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
Chainsaw bag recommendation?

The green one is the original version, the newer model is black.

Main difference I've noticed is the fuel pockets on the green are too small for 1L MSR fuel bottles. The bottles fit, they just aren't deep enough to close the zippers.
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I have found the trufuel pre-mix gas cans work in the green version. I just refill those as required.

I also can't carry a saw in my dakine pack - with all the beer I have to carry it gets too heavy too far back….so it all just goes on the big bob.

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July 13, 2015, 7:14 p.m.
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Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
Some pics from Calgary

Long time no post…

had meant to get my own go-pro of Billy Dog, but just haven't ever gotten around to it. this is another local trail builder that took one of Family Guy -[HTML_REMOVED] Billy Dog.
Family guy is a green circle downhill contour trail that hits the same side of the mountain as the rest of the black trails.

Billy Dog starts at ~5:07 in.

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/414416/

July 13, 2015, 6:57 p.m.
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Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
new chainsaw time

If you're still going to have a smaller saw I would suggest you consider the 90cc saws too. I think 70cc is good choice for a good do it all saw but 90cc will handle milling more easily.

these are my thoughts as well. One saw = 70cc / two saw, 40-50cc, then 90cc ish.

I like the 372xp better than the 576xp, but I'm more of a stihl guy and like the MS461 best of that bunch. really, it comes down to what feels best in your hands and what the dealer can support.

or just say f-it and work towards a 25, 35, 50, 65, 70, 90cc plan

July 13, 2015, 11:08 a.m.
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Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

Gents,

Who stashes their chainsaw in the bush?

I need to cut up some dead hook….errr…I have a section of trail that's pretty shitty to access and have quite a bit of work to do.

what are your methods for stashing/hiding your saws? wrap in plastic? keep ventilated? rubbermaid of some sort?

any issues arise from doing this? critters, moisture, other?

June 21, 2015, 1:37 p.m.
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Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

I love my 390 too. It is so nice to run with that 28" Techlite.

I run a 30" Tsumuru on mine and a 28" ES Light on the 440. Both are pretty aggressively ported tho…the 440 eats stock 90cc saws with sub 32" bars.

What's your small saw? MS200T/14" for me…

just picked up a $100 stihl 038…runs erratic. hoping it's not a crank seal.

June 12, 2015, 9:54 p.m.
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Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

I need a mill (and 36" bar).

I thinned out some alders with it yesterday. Overkill for 10" trees but lots of fun. :D

Tight. I've been loving the 390, but hard to beat the sheer anger of my MS 440…vids soon.

Dec. 16, 2013, 11:39 a.m.
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Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

For nearly 20 years I have run 20 L of cheap gas with 500 ml of regular Stihl mix- What's that work out to 40:1 or somewhere around there? Even richer in the heat of the summer. I never had a problem with fouled plugs or carbon build up but most importantly for the guys that worked for me - never had a top end melt down. And this is running saws 4-6 hours a day. For the average weekend warrior or volunteer builder I highly suggest running your saw on the rich side. Your investment will last you much longer and if you aren't trying to make a living with it why would you abuse it…. just remember heat kills saws

you mean oil rich or tuned rich?

Heat does kill - that is one of the reasons that modding mufflers helps!

Tuned a little rich is OK IMO, so long as it's not so rich that it loads up or is noticeably low on power. If your saw has a tendency to stall when picking it up from idling a bit, then it's likely rich on the low speed screw and is "loading" up with fuel.

Not sure I'd go much richer on the oil than 40:1, personally, but I've heard of lots of guys running 32:1 with no reported issues.

BTW, for those of you that want some bedtime reading. Talks about "four stroking" etc…
Chainsaw Carb tuning article / tutorial

lots of other chainsaw stuff...chains, clutches, etc..

Dec. 13, 2013, 7:51 p.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

50:1 is 100ml per 5 gal while 40:1 is 125ml per 5gal, how do you get more buildup from using less oil, don't you mean you get more carbon deposit from 40:1 ?

If you buy a 6 pak of sthil oil they double the warranty on a new saw so I went with that and I mix 50:1

Nope, my observations reveal more buildup at 50:1. I find that if you're tuned rich at idle is when you get the extreme wet looking buildup that is what one would expect and is super common(especially in older saws), but with 40:1 and tuned right I have experienced little to no buildup. At 50:1, it seems like it burns hotter and fries the carbon onto the slug. The oil burns too, but not as hot as the gas so it all contributes to the cooling effect of the fuel. One of the mistakes I commonly see with saws is that guys will tune them like a dirtbike where the adage is that if you're not blowin blue smoke you're lean. Saws don't need the overcompensated cooling like a relatively big bore bike does so lots of saws end up super rich with clogged spark screens and wet pistons unnecessarily.

Dec. 13, 2013, 8:57 a.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

$699.95 at Prospect Equipment. The MS261 was around $650 and came with a few extras.

IIRC, the guy at the shop said the 545 is a very similar but slightly slower running saw. I think it was $599.

The 545 and 555 lack the "rev-boost" and crank stuffers that allow them to rev up faster and I believe have slightly differnt porting that results in slightly less power. They're the replacements for the 353 and 359 which are sort of an intermediate/pro saw. "Pro" construction, but lack the XP badge. IMO these are ideal for builders, but find Husky prices to be a bit high in Canadastan.

What ratio mix do people run here? 50,40,32:1?
Modern manufacturers recommend 50:1, but I find I get more carbon deposit on the piston as compared to 40:1..I don't have one of them new fangled strato saws so don't know how they react…

Dec. 11, 2013, 3:03 p.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

But again, what do I know…….

but hey what do I know……. let the venom and vitriol begin !

Not sure where this^ came from, but:

regardless, I think we would all agree: a sharp chain [HTML_REMOVED] any motor mod you can do (for a work saw, anyways)…

I disagree about the ported saw thing - my 440 cuts with stock 660s easy and is a bunch lighter with less vibes. Louder, yes, but that's what hearing protection is for. my chains are sharp ;-) running a chain out of the box is a slow chain in my books.

my experience is that a saw needs rings after about 1000hrs…I couldnt stand to cut with a saw that'd down on compression.

Dec. 11, 2013, 1:05 p.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

I'm not sure why you think I'm making this stuff up, but here's some info so you can either go out and buy a few saws or at least fuck off and die a happy man:

Both saws are Stihl FS250's - I've gone through a few angle drives, shafts and a snapped throttle cable but the powerheads are still in fantastic shape mechanically. I know you're probably itching to point out that these aren't chainsaws, and that's a good point, except that I'm only sharing my info about performing the muffler mod and it's effects on carb adjustment. As far as I know people muffler mod everything from hedge trimmers to chainsaws to leaf blowers and the mechanics are all the same.

So now, you're all set. You can go out and buy a couple of saws or at least tell your friends about some saws that made it past 2k hrs with little work. When you tell the story though, don't forget to include the part where you had to try and insult and argue with someone on the internet about it, because you know, that's a really important part :lol:

Anyways, I've wasted enough time in this thread. For anyone buying a saw and wanting to open up the muffler, let er rip!

:rofl: apparently I succeeded with near zero effort.

I'm just saying that I have not had the same experiences as you with chainsaws and dont want any of these guys to fry their saw by muffler modding and not re-tuning….my leaf blower and week wacker are muffler modded with a non-adjustable carb, but I did it in stages so as to not over do it and only because I knew what to listen for. Telling guys to gut'em and let'er rip is irresponsible IMO.

Anyone who wants to mod their two strokes, read up. read some more. read some more. mod on a yard sale junker if you have to. There a few websites that will discuss this over and over again for different saws. Learn how to tune your saw. It's not as simple as cutting a hole and forgetting about it no matter what your personal experience is.

Dec. 11, 2013, 7:45 a.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

Sorry I wasn't able to agree with you earlier though, I see it rubbed you the wrong way ;)

Not at all. I just find your case to be the extreme exception. Never heard of a saw making 2000+ hours without a clutch drum, recoil, rings, carb etc… What brand and model? because I'm gonna buy a few. Like I said, cool story. lol

Dec. 9, 2013, 7:34 p.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

You read it right the first time, never done anything of the sort.

U make a living cutting?

Cool story bro.

Dec. 9, 2013, 2:15 p.m.
Posts: 0
Joined: Nov. 24, 2002
16"-18" Chainsaw recommendations

Really?

I've used my saws for 3 seasons of non stop full throttle commercial day in/day out use with the muffler bored out with absolutely no problems, in fact those saws are still running better than when they came out of the store. They've seen well over 2500hrs with nothing more than fresh air filters and spark plugs as needed - absolutely no problems so far and I'd say I've put those saws through much more than the "average" user might.

I have a hard time believing you don't ever pull out your little screwdriver and adjust your carbs and that you've never rebuilt your carbs? No rings?

Ozibatla is not "wrong", but it's not neccesarily totally correct either. Most saws with the new EPA-BS muffler end up getting tuned too rich if tuned by ear (a tach will show they're often "under" rpm, even out of the shop).

When you open up the muffler it does in fact allow more air to flow, but the carb doesn't necessarily self adjust to put out that much more fuel to fully compensate so most of the time you just end up in the optimal rpm range for the saw by accident with a small muffler mod. If you were already on the rpm WOT no load spec for the saw, then in all likelihood, the saw would end up too lean and over rpm'd. EPA makes the manufacturers put on little plastic limiter caps that limit the amount of fuel you can jam into the cylinder so you do have to be cognizant of how big you go.

Unless you really gape the exhaust outlet (hehe) it is a really minor change that needs to be made (or none at all) - even my brazil muffler on my 066 (two 1" round holes, gutted baffles) was maybe a 1/8 turn more than the single outlet muffler. The big bore/port/squish tighten plus muff gape-age resulted in almost a full turn further open to keep the rpms below 15000. My modded ms260 required a MS440 carb to fuel it - the little carb just could not do it even with drilled jets [HTML_REMOVED] bored venturi.

regardless, I think we would all agree: a sharp chain [HTML_REMOVED] any motor mod you can do (for a work saw, anyways)…

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