shoreboy profile

Hadnt seen that one before.  Interesting.  They better up that range from their estimate if they want to be competitive.  Any idea on pricing?

I find that people who are skeptical of bushings in mtb suspension havent experienced it when it is done properly.  I rode bikes with full bushings at all pivots (up until my most recent one) and couldnt have been happier with them.  They are easy to maintain and last way beyond any bearing seems to.

The local indoor pumptrack/jump park already exists.  Not technically in the S2S corridor, but pretty close.

https://www.airreccenter.com/

I installed a -1 WC headset on my Turner this summer.  Pressed in fairly easily, but keeping it lined up is a bit tricky as has been noted by others.  I measured my reach and TT both before and after installation (keeping my stem at the same height), and the change was about 1mm (so basically no change).  A -2 headset would have slightly more of an effect im guessing, but Im not sure it is really perceptible unless you are very sensitive to your reach number.

I also got a bit of cup creaking after an extremely dusty summer roadtrip, but greasing and pressing the cups back in seems to have fixed the problem.

I have the Lezyne Laser Drive rear light.  Sounds similar to Andrews in that it has the laser-bike-lane feature (that you can turn off) and 250 lumens.  I agree a rear light can never be bright enough, and have often been told its TOO bright.  My usual response is 'Thank you!  Thats what I was going for'  As for it 'blinding' other drivers, who stares directly into the bright lights of oncoming vehicles?  First thing you are taught when driving is NOT to do that....

Back in the day when I was fishing cables on my Kleins, we used to use the string and vaccuum trick with some success.  If you can tie a piece of string (or strong thread) around the end of the cable, and get it close enough to the exit port, a vaccuum (now you know why you bought that super powerful Dyson!) will suck the string out and you can then pull the line through.  What Cam said works best if it isnt a fresh install.

Buying a longer dropper post doesn't necessarily fix the issue Cr4w is talking about.  If the bike has a slack ST and short CS, the further you extend your seat, the more your weight is shifted back over the rear wheel.

Might also want to credit The Tragically Hip's song Wheat Kings....

Since when are these called 'Endos'?  I always thought this skill was a 'Stoppie'.  In my experience an Endo, is when your back end actually goes End Over the bars and land in a pile on the ground wondering what the heck just happened.

Mudhugger.  Best coverage ive found by far.

Posted by: nouseforaname

Posted by: shoreboy

What carbon cranks had a square taper?

If you count first gen Next cranks? Not really carbon, more alloy with bits of carbon in them. Whereas a bunch of cranks these days are carbon with a bit of aluminium in them.

I've bent alloy cranks as recently as 2008.

First gen Next were definitely not carbon.  As you said, alloy cranks with carbon 'inserts' to make them look cool.

What carbon cranks had a square taper?

Posted by: craw

I won't ever buy another Pole but thanks for thinking of me. I have a Geometron in the mail so we'll see how that goes. I think there's more to pedigree, impeccable manufacturing and the slacker HTA+reduced offset than the machining innovations from Pole. I'll let someone else guinea pig that $5000 frame.

The Pole experiment didnt work out for you?  What was the problem/issue you found with it?

Vancouver Ski & Board Services?  On East 2nd near Main.  Haven't used them in awhile, but were good when I did.

http://www.vanski.ca/

Posted by: Ouch

Posted by: pedalhound

The sites are listed right there...why not take a look for yourself?

I've looked at their sites, I just don't know how the prices compare locally. I guess I didn't clarify that in the previous post.

Since we dont actually know what 'local' is for you, it would be hard for us to guess.  If you are talking LBS vs online, you will be hard pressed to find any local shops that can match online prices/availability for the majority of parts.

Posted by: Ouch

Posted by: Endur-Bro

^Look on the German sites for a complete DT wheel.

A link to those German sites? Or name of stores?

Thanks

My favorites for tires are: https://www.bike-discount.de/en, https://www.bike-components.de/en/ and https://www.hibike.com/

I assume they have good prices on DT stuff as well.

I like DT Swiss spokes and rims.  J-bend is your best bet.  DT Swiss Competition (double butted) are very common and build up well.  If you want to get fancy, bladed spokes are strong and light, but expensive and harder to build up.  My nipple of preference are also DT Swiss with Pro-lock (saves you having to put spoke prep on all your spokes).  Many will swear by brass nipples for longevity (at the cost of weight), but the DT Swiss Al ones I have used seem to hold up well.  Also getting hex head or squorx head nipples means you dont have to use a spoke wrench when tensioning/truing your wheels.  This option is nice to have, but not a necessity.

Im going to say there is a big difference in terms of durability between a CK hub and a Hope hub.  I have several sets of CK hubs that are 10+ years old and still on their original bearings.  Maybe the Pro 4s are better than the Pro 2s, but ive never know a set of Hope bearings to last anywhere near that long.

Im wondering how one goes about flossing a dead horse.....

Posted by: Sethimus

i have 6 invites left, if someone has a ridemonkey/pinkbike account write me a pm there, too bad that the new and "improved" forum here still lacks that simple feature...

This forum has PM functionality.  See the little envelope below your username/posts/joined information?