shoreboy profile

How could they not have capitalized on this by using Trek rather than Bontrager for the name for this? :)

What happens when you need to remove your grips for some reason?  What do you have to do to break them free of whatever adhesive you have used? Are the grips easy to re-install after removal?

The lowers are all the same AFAIK. They say 'torque cap compatible' but will still take a normal hub cap. Apparently wheels are easier to install if you have torque caps, and give a larger mating surface. Ive never had any issue with non-torque cap wheel installs, so Im not sure why they even exist.  Apart from the marketing gimmick of 'stiffness' I would presume.

I think you are converting to CDN, while the article is being written in USD. Using Jenson as your source:

Rear hub = ~$460US (microspline or HG cuz Shimano rules)

Front hub = ~$181US (on sale right now!)

Stans Flow = $100US x 2

Spokes = Lets say $1 each? Nipples $0.20 each? = ~$80

Total = $921

Granted this doesnt include the build, but I would be doing that myself.

You've got some 28H CK hubs you can put on there?

For that same ~$900 ill take my CK hubs on Stan's Flow MK3 any day of the week. The set will be lighter than these as well.

I was eyeing up the hex equivalent to replace my aging Park P-handle set (the ones with the blue grip), as some of the heads are rounded out a bit with use. To my surprise, there is no 'ball-head' end on the new tools. I find the ball head end useful for getting those bolts out that you cant always get to at a straight shot. As pretty as they are, I think they missed the mark on the hex ones too. Ill likely look elsewhere to replace my set, or replace it with the same set, which Park still sells as well.

PS I still own a bike that uses T-40 for some of the pivot hardware, so those fittings are out there!

Thanks SRAM!  A release like this further consolidates my preference to run Shimano.

So they want me to buy a new RD to get 2 more teeth AND a ridiculously large jump up to the granny?

Are you saying you cannot hear an e-bike coming up behind you? The sound of the motor is unmistakable.

Awesome to see all these companies chipping in for the greater good! Kudos to all them for helping out.

Just a nitpick at some of the message being sent. The last pic of the guy with the faceshield from SC. Looks like a well designed piece. If you are going to show someone wearing PPE as an advertisement for your product, please show them wearing it correctly.  The N95 mask he is wearing is not going to work as it is supposed to if worn like that.

Posted by: T-mack

Posted by: FLATCH

Posted by: heathen

https://www.transitionbikes.com/Bikes_Spur.cfm

42 hundred for a frame? WTF.

Yeah when did Transition become a dentist brand? Tariffs maybe?

On the topic of changes, when did they lose the Horst link suspension?  Im assuming its just for this model which employs 'flex stays'?

Posted by: nouseforaname

Posted by: RAHrider

I'm in awe of your 50x17. That would be a grind up many of the hills in my area. I thought it must have been a typo. Good on you.

King cage stainless steel ended up being my choice. Their ti cages have been amazing for me and I like the simple styling.

Agree, that's nuts. I rode 46/16 as an all round FG ratio. OP, on my gravel bike I'm at 40 up front and most often find that i'm around 15 or 17 for general use - down towards the 11/13 when I'm hustling though. I live out towards PoCo so rides are flattish gravel.

(40x28)/15 = 74.66

(40x28)/17 = 65.88

(36x28)/16 = 63 - unless you're into big climbs or rolling along slowly, IMO this is too low.

(36x28)/15 = 67.2 < more reasonable, but probably still too low for where I live as an only gear, I find I'm regularly bumping off the limits of 40x11. Yes, if I span at 110rpm i wouldn't be, but I don't.

Perhaps take your average speed and work backwards from there if you're still on the fence. What gearing and RPM will it take to be able to do your average speed comfortably.

Edit - i see you decided already. Good luck and have fun!

I ride (38x26)/16 = 61.75 on my city commuter. Its definitely a bit too low for the flats, but I like it for the hills. Ive never attempted to ride it on a gravel ride, but id imagine it would be pretty good.  Unfortunately my frame wont allow for a bigger front ring and 16T is the smallest freewheel I can find. Id love to bump it up to a 40T or even 42T to help speed things along on level ground.

Posted by: Ddean

So I cracked a carbon rim and have to rebuild it with a new rim (exact same) using the old parts (the spokes should be fine - rim cracked was not tacod).

I’ve checked around at local shops for build time - either they won’t accept new servicing or it’s an impossible wait (October!). Maybe I’ll bring it out of town or maybe I’ll find someone here, but maybe I’ll buy the tools and figure it out on Yutube?

Aside from the stand, what else do I need? Spoke tension meter? I have spoke tools for truing.

Anyone tried to build your own wheel?

I build up all my own wheels. Park TS 2.2 and Park Tensionmeter. DT Swiss Prolocks are great as well. If you are replacing the rim with the exact same rim (same ERD) then as was said below, just tape the new rim onto the old, and transfer the spokes across one at a time. You should use new nipples, and if you cant find Prolocks, you will need some spoke prep. The formula that RAHrider mentions in this thread is a pretty good guide. I do use a tensionmeter, especially on carbon rims. You dont want to be putting too much tension on your nice new carbon rim or you will crack the eyelets. Just getting them all to around the same number (as Reductimat says) is the most important, but too much tension should be avoided. Id be willing to give a fellow board member a hand in lacing and truing a new wheel if you cant find anything else. PM me if you are interested.

Posted by: Endur-Bro

Anyone have recommendations for HD truck tyres with a slight aggro thread pattern but still All-Weather or Triple Peak rates? 33 or 35s metric sizing works too. 

I’m thinking the Nitto Terra Grappler G2W or EXO Grappler AWT. Thoughts/suggestions?

BFG KO2s on my LandCruiser. Best AT tire Ive ever had the chance to use.

Posted by: T-mack

Posted by: shoreboy

Posted by: T-mack

Posted by: heathen

I have the new Scout on route and want to run it 160F 150R. (Boutique Sight)

So I need to swap out travel spacers. Sock is 205mm x 57.5mm I need to change it to 205mm x 62.5mm. RS makes no mention of it in their service document but you can see it. I cant find the spacers for sale. I would need the 2.5mm travel spacer.

Will there be frame contact with the added travel? I wanted to do the same with my Sentinel but it was already super close so I chose not to. Fluid Function would have spacers I'm sure or get a machine shop to make you one out of delrin or whatever.

Transition states on their website that the new scout can be ridden with 140mm (205x57.5mm shock) or 150mm (205x62.5mm), so I am hoping they checked on that :) Im still not clear on how you make a shorter stroked shock into a longer one with spacers?

The metric shocks come in families of i2i's.  205 i2i shocks are all technically 65mm until they throw in spacers to decrease travel all the way down to 57.5mm. This cut way down on random size shocks for the manufacturers to have to make for the different bike brands and made it so the bike brands had 1 size i2i to work with depending on the bikes 'genre' ie 205mm i2i, 210mm i2i for bigger bikes etc.

Ah. So if the bike has a 57.5mm shock, you would want to remove spacers to make it longer? That makes much more sense.  Thanks for the explanation!

Posted by: T-mack

Posted by: heathen

I have the new Scout on route and want to run it 160F 150R. (Boutique Sight)

So I need to swap out travel spacers. Sock is 205mm x 57.5mm I need to change it to 205mm x 62.5mm. RS makes no mention of it in their service document but you can see it. I cant find the spacers for sale. I would need the 2.5mm travel spacer.

Will there be frame contact with the added travel? I wanted to do the same with my Sentinel but it was already super close so I chose not to. Fluid Function would have spacers I'm sure or get a machine shop to make you one out of delrin or whatever.

Transition states on their website that the new scout can be ridden with 140mm (205x57.5mm shock) or 150mm (205x62.5mm), so I am hoping they checked on that :)  Im still not clear on how you make a shorter stroked shock into a longer one with spacers?

Im confused at your question. How is it that you plan on increasing the stroke of the shock by adding a spacer? A spacer would shorten the stroke in my experience. From what I can see, you cannot lengthen the stroke of the shock without changing the entire damper. Transition even states on their site that you would need a different shock.

Posted by: Kenny

I loathe Stan's. I swear I clean the rim 60 times, stretch it till my fingers almost bleed, and the shit still leaks half the time. No way it should be this hard. 

I used gorilla tape once and it absolutely does not leak, but it's thick enough to affect the rim bed and it leaves quite a bit of residue. 

Broke a spoke and two reapplications of stans later I'm ready to stab myself. 

They are 35i rims so I think maybe the width of the tape is an issue, I also think I should be using narrower tape, like 25, whatever covers the holes...

The tape should be covering bead to bead. If you can hold the roll of tape on the rim, and it falls inside the flanges, the tape isnt wide enough. You want the roll it JUST wider than the flanges in my experience. I use Stan's and Schwalbe in the past with no issues from either.

Posted by: Bull_Dozer

For those of you that own high quality gore-tex jackets - do you find that they are actually close to 100% waterproof? I have one of the highest end Arcteryx jackets (with the highest waterproof rating, etc.) and I took it for a hike recently in pretty heavy rain and it didn't take long for me to get absolutely soaked. Although perhaps some of the moisture I was feeling was due to sweat from overheating. Seemed kind of weird to me though that a jacket that retails for like $800 on the basis that it is super waterproof still can't keep you dry in the rain. Or perhaps I just need to treat it or something?

How old is the jacket? When was the last time you washed it to renew the waterproofing? Once a jacket gets dirty, its waterproofness falls off dramatically.

You must be riding in a different Squamish than the rest of us? The Shore has its virtues, but there are few places that can match Squamish for variety and quantity of amazing trails.