kperras profile

Great review and fair comments on Graham's part. As the PM in charge of this model I do feel the need to address a few comments that some readers have made. 

Manufacturers don't skimp out on any part. It's a careful balance of quality of parts, aftermarket service, and pricing that determines the final spec. Using nicer, branded parts comes at a cost and different customers focus on different components as being vital to their own personal requirements. Sometimes the balancing of spec negatively affects the item that you place the most value on. Maxxis EXO+ vs DD tires are a good example of the endless debate on components. 

Additionally there are many distribution models out there that add to the intricacies of the final price. Today's new Canyon Spectral is a good example of a value-packed bike, but that comes at a cost of lack of aftermarket support in some regions where the bike is sold. This is very much over-simplifying the situation but, in the end, the consumer can decide what they value most and buy accordingly. No hard feelings here. 

If you're set on a Rocky Mountain Altitude and take objection at the spec on the Carbon 70 model due to a few items that you wish were better, you can always spend an extra $400 and spring for the Altitude Carbon 70 Coil. The upgrades over the standard Carbon 70 are Factory suspension F+R, Ice Tec rotors F+R, AND a 350 hub on the rear. Yes it still has AR rims but despite the fact that these are Race Face's lowest-tiered rim option, these are a much nicer rim than some of the options that exist in the reasonably weighted, 30mm wide category. Contrary to someone's comment below, the spokes and nipples are not junk; they are the very reliable DT Swiss Competition 2.0-1.8 butted spokes with loctited DT Swiss brass nipples. These are solid enough to be re-used / re-laced to a Race Face ARC HD rim once you dent the AR rim past it's useful life.

Fan not so much; I personally prefer 135mm width saddles with a chamois. The Silverado has been my go-to for years. However, without the aforementioned diaper, a slightly more padded, wider (142mm) saddle is my preference. I should note that I rode the Deva for several years, chamois-less, before going back to 7Mesh's excellent riding bibs with a more sporty saddle. 

Bonus mention for SQLabs excellent 611 saddle in the 14cm width.

The Deva is a 142mm wide saddle. The Silverado, Volt, Rocket, SL8, etc are also available in the same widths, and even 150mm widths as well. This should add a few more options with regards to shape and padding. The 142mm Rocket is probably a step up in comfort over the Deva, but less so than the Koda. I go back and forth on the usefulness of the Kevlar corners. One one hand they are quite durable. On the other hand, their abrasiveness coupled with gritty dirt that we have on the shore tends to rub seams on riding shorts/pants to the point of blowing them out. 

If you can spring for the microfiber cover material, do it! You can oil the material periodically to keep it fresh and it develops a nice "Brooks-esque" patina.

For a equal fork length, installing an angleset that slackens from the top like the works components one you installed, the reach will still likely increase by a significant amount. 1 degree, front center dependent, can increase reach by 10mm. You probably lost 5mm by making that HTA adjustment at the top with a bearing that moves up and back.

My Eagle XX1 cassette is approaching 2 years of use with 3 chains. The finish on those two components are far more durable that what sold in the past. My GX Eagle cassette is on it's 2nd chain after a year and it's not looking like it will need a replacement once a 3rd chain gets thrown on. I have multiple drivetrains, but I also ride almost every day.

Hey Mandrew, FYI that fork will go to full bottom, with the o-ring right up against the crown, once the bottom out bumper fully compresses. Might want to add another token with the same PSI as an aid to prevent that.

I've bled MT2 to MT8s (and everything in between) about a dozen times each and have found that vertically positioning the brake, with the lever at the top on a 30-45 degree angle, the caliper unbolted from the chainstay, and the line somewhat straight, results in a perfect bleed every time. This is with the open syringe at the top and the closed syringe full of mineral oil at the bottom. You push the oil up, then gently pull back on the syringe very slowly to refill it and repeat the process.

This all sounds like voodoo magic, but I do this with Shimano and Sram brakes as well. Works everytime. 10 minutes of prep work up front will save you from doing the bleed 2 or 3 times before you get it right.

What parts are disposable? If you notice the less than desirable feel of a certain part or wear through items at faster than desired rate, then you are not spending the required amount of money to satisfy your demands. If you are in tune with the refined feel, extra durability, and/or improved weight of a part but don't want to pay for that added performance, then you are only kidding yourself.

Also, value is subjective; what matters to one person doesn't to the next. Some people value a shop's friendly customer service and everything that goes along with it and are willing to pay for it; others don't and prefer to skip the brick and mortar shops and pocket the savings. 

You can't be cheap and call out someone such as myself for not doing my job correctly.

I've also had good luck with the BBs but I've also pulled the seal and packed in extra Bel Ray waterproof grease in the bearings, then packed the backside of the bearings as well once they're installed. I can usually get up to a year out of a BB92 BB this way.

The 51mm chainline is now slightly more favorable for boost bikes since boost is 52mm. Small detail but good to know.

1 key with a fob on a keyring. Hyundai branded. Found it on Severed D before getting to the Dear John entrance. PM me if you know who it belongs to.

The Fox Frame looks really good and seems to have the latest of every technology. If it fits right, that would be my first choice. Plus it comes in the best colour that never goes out of style or looks like shit after one muddy ride.

Not a chance.

Sweet. Just re-uploaded my profile pic.

No more rep :(

Years of hard work gone ;)

Easiest is park at Old Buck Parking lot, or Parkgate Mall. Ride up Old Buck and turn left at the Powerlines. Climb till you get to Pingu. Ride Pingu then any of these trails: Pangor, Boogieman, Dear John/John Deer, Severed D, then return via Bridle Path to wherever you parked.

Climbing trail only good till the last few switchbacks. Lower Oil Can is good except there's a tree down about 3/4 of the way down. Tiny one, only requires a hand saw.

I thought I'd share with you fellow board readers.

You can match Shimano SLX lever (or XT/XTR/Saint) and MT5/MT7 caliper. Such combination is even better than original Magura set :)

After one of winter crashes I completely broke my MT5 brake lever into pieces. Looks like the plastic it's made of is utter crap and will break easily. There are several reports here in Europe about MT5/MT7 prone to breaking. The same happened to fellow biker I know with his MT7.

You just need proper Shimano lever (newest ones) like M7000, M8000 M9000 etc.

My current set is SLX M7000 lever + MT5 caliper (with original Magura hose) bled with Shimano mineral oil.

There are several pros of this combination
- Shimano parts are lots cheaper than Magura stuff and they are available everywhere
- Shimano levers are tough made, not from platstic-fantastic like Magura
- brakes work better: Shimano levers are less spongy than original Magura and you get lots of extra power just from changing lever
- you can choose SLX, XT, XTR or Saint levers an pair them with either MT7 or MT5

What about the modulation? I find the gradual increase in power to be a substantial benefit to the Magura brakes.

It's a move to improve margins not lower retail prices.

Incorrect. It's a move to maintain competitive pricing. As soon as one manufacturer re-engineers the pricing structure others must follow or close their doors because they aren't selling bikes for two reasons:

1)They are priced appropriately when produced domestically but everyone complains about the high prices because company XYZ is cheaper for the same spec or

2)They are priced appropriately when compared to the competition but now the margins are so low or non-existent that the company is longer able to keep its doors open.

The norm now is to have goods produced overseas; don't kid yourself. Everyone is on a level playing field so to speak.

I think weight is pretty important for kids. If you have a fixed price in mind, I'd consider getting the lightest (but also highest quality) bike possible, which might not include duallies. If you want to add comfort and confidence to your kids bike, getting some high volume, good quality tires are a good place to do it.

I typically prefer Maxxis tires, but the selection of 24" tires are limited to DH options which don't apply here. Schwalbe has 24" options in a few casing options. Much better than getting low end, plastic feeling, XC tread patterned tires.