kperras profile

My Eagle XX1 cassette is approaching 2 years of use with 3 chains. The finish on those two components are far more durable that what sold in the past. My GX Eagle cassette is on it's 2nd chain after a year and it's not looking like it will need a replacement once a 3rd chain gets thrown on. I have multiple drivetrains, but I also ride almost every day.

Hey Mandrew, FYI that fork will go to full bottom, with the o-ring right up against the crown, once the bottom out bumper fully compresses. Might want to add another token with the same PSI as an aid to prevent that.

I've bled MT2 to MT8s (and everything in between) about a dozen times each and have found that vertically positioning the brake, with the lever at the top on a 30-45 degree angle, the caliper unbolted from the chainstay, and the line somewhat straight, results in a perfect bleed every time. This is with the open syringe at the top and the closed syringe full of mineral oil at the bottom. You push the oil up, then gently pull back on the syringe very slowly to refill it and repeat the process.

This all sounds like voodoo magic, but I do this with Shimano and Sram brakes as well. Works everytime. 10 minutes of prep work up front will save you from doing the bleed 2 or 3 times before you get it right.

What parts are disposable? If you notice the less than desirable feel of a certain part or wear through items at faster than desired rate, then you are not spending the required amount of money to satisfy your demands. If you are in tune with the refined feel, extra durability, and/or improved weight of a part but don't want to pay for that added performance, then you are only kidding yourself.

Also, value is subjective; what matters to one person doesn't to the next. Some people value a shop's friendly customer service and everything that goes along with it and are willing to pay for it; others don't and prefer to skip the brick and mortar shops and pocket the savings. 

You can't be cheap and call out someone such as myself for not doing my job correctly.

I've also had good luck with the BBs but I've also pulled the seal and packed in extra Bel Ray waterproof grease in the bearings, then packed the backside of the bearings as well once they're installed. I can usually get up to a year out of a BB92 BB this way.

The 51mm chainline is now slightly more favorable for boost bikes since boost is 52mm. Small detail but good to know.

"My concern is that the LMs and other trail groups will have negative
perceptions to ebikes - lumping them in with motorized. And that this
negative perception will spill over to mountain bikes."

Completely agree. I believe where things fall apart is the delineation of motorized. There is a very clear difference between a throttle and a lack- thereof. To me, the difference is less clear between pedal and pedal assist.

It would be a tragedy if current advocates took the same negative path that others took before them; making generalizations about the technological features in order to lessen the burden of ensuring current and future inclusivity of users of that technology. This is exactly what happened in the US, concerning the definition of "mechanical" transport methods which got bikes banned from BLM lands a long time ago.

Great response. As I mentioned above in a different reply if WORCA has no interest in representing e-bike users that's fair enough. You can't be asked to volunteer your time for something that goes against your beliefs and frankly, jeopardizes much of the work already done.

I'm still very interested to see how this all pans out. Nothing to do with my line of work, but I see many parallels with this issue with where mountain biking was just a few short years ago.

I've though a bit more about this and agree: with limited resources and a lack of interest in the governing bodies to undertake the myriad of work required to bring all policies and paperwork to be inclusive of e-bikes I understand the lack of action. In your case, including WORCA, you can't really be faulted on this.

What I don't understand is the anti-pragmatic view on something different.

Every argument against e-bikes so far is conjecture and nothing more. There is absolutely no data to support any of the concerns that people have voiced about the impact of e-bikes with the exception that an e-bike contains a motor and motor vehicles are excluded from non-motorized trail systems; the argument is essentially boiled down to semantics and fear. Everytime someone yells "motor" all I see is a Trump supporter yelling "Obamacare".

The above, along with my mentality of inclusivity, is exactly why I present my pro-ebike counterpoints. I can't stand NIMBYism and the close-mindeness that it instills.

The reality is that at some point there will be enough e-bikers (gasp…) that they will stand up for themselves and have a voice either as part of local mtb advocacy or through their own group. I recall something similar happening with mountain biking not so long ago.

Regarding your 40km/hr argument, you should note that unlicensed pedelecs in Canada are limited to a max of 32km/hr. It's equally dangerous descending bridal at high speeds as it is ascending it, so this is a pretty shaky argument as well.

We should nip DH bikes in the bud because the speeds they allow us to ride are simply too dangerous.

1 key with a fob on a keyring. Hyundai branded. Found it on Severed D before getting to the Dear John entrance. PM me if you know who it belongs to.

The Fox Frame looks really good and seems to have the latest of every technology. If it fits right, that would be my first choice. Plus it comes in the best colour that never goes out of style or looks like shit after one muddy ride.

Not a chance.

Sweet. Just re-uploaded my profile pic.

No more rep :(

Years of hard work gone ;)

Easiest is park at Old Buck Parking lot, or Parkgate Mall. Ride up Old Buck and turn left at the Powerlines. Climb till you get to Pingu. Ride Pingu then any of these trails: Pangor, Boogieman, Dear John/John Deer, Severed D, then return via Bridle Path to wherever you parked.

Climbing trail only good till the last few switchbacks. Lower Oil Can is good except there's a tree down about 3/4 of the way down. Tiny one, only requires a hand saw.

I thought I'd share with you fellow board readers.

You can match Shimano SLX lever (or XT/XTR/Saint) and MT5/MT7 caliper. Such combination is even better than original Magura set :)

After one of winter crashes I completely broke my MT5 brake lever into pieces. Looks like the plastic it's made of is utter crap and will break easily. There are several reports here in Europe about MT5/MT7 prone to breaking. The same happened to fellow biker I know with his MT7.

You just need proper Shimano lever (newest ones) like M7000, M8000 M9000 etc.

My current set is SLX M7000 lever + MT5 caliper (with original Magura hose) bled with Shimano mineral oil.

There are several pros of this combination
- Shimano parts are lots cheaper than Magura stuff and they are available everywhere
- Shimano levers are tough made, not from platstic-fantastic like Magura
- brakes work better: Shimano levers are less spongy than original Magura and you get lots of extra power just from changing lever
- you can choose SLX, XT, XTR or Saint levers an pair them with either MT7 or MT5

What about the modulation? I find the gradual increase in power to be a substantial benefit to the Magura brakes.

It's a move to improve margins not lower retail prices.

Incorrect. It's a move to maintain competitive pricing. As soon as one manufacturer re-engineers the pricing structure others must follow or close their doors because they aren't selling bikes for two reasons:

1)They are priced appropriately when produced domestically but everyone complains about the high prices because company XYZ is cheaper for the same spec or

2)They are priced appropriately when compared to the competition but now the margins are so low or non-existent that the company is longer able to keep its doors open.

The norm now is to have goods produced overseas; don't kid yourself. Everyone is on a level playing field so to speak.

I think weight is pretty important for kids. If you have a fixed price in mind, I'd consider getting the lightest (but also highest quality) bike possible, which might not include duallies. If you want to add comfort and confidence to your kids bike, getting some high volume, good quality tires are a good place to do it.

I typically prefer Maxxis tires, but the selection of 24" tires are limited to DH options which don't apply here. Schwalbe has 24" options in a few casing options. Much better than getting low end, plastic feeling, XC tread patterned tires.