My drivetrain of choice right now is 10 sp xt and xtr shifter, 11 sp xt rear derailleur, 10 sp sunrace 11-46 cassette. I had 11 sp shimano shifters with 11 sp 11-46 sunrace cassette as well but I didnt like the more clickety feel of the 11sp shifters
Yes, this is the one that I've got my eye on! Glad to hear such positive feedback on it so far. Another example IMO of geometry > design/material, just in this case the design and material are also fantastic. I'm hoping for some nice end of season demo/rental sales on one of these.
The weight difference between C and CC frame is ~200g, so about half a lb. Not really a great value in that upgrade for myself, but the C frame is not available on its own, so if you aren't happy with the OEM builds or have a lot of your own stuff to swap on, it's a bit of a different discussion.
Personally, I would run it at 140mm, because why not (and it's what I've got). I'm also partial to Shimano brakes because it's all we run on our various bikes, and we don't have any of the newer 4 digit series stuff that seem to have more wandering bite point issues. I've tried Guide R's and they've been adequate for my riding FWIW
10 and 11 sp Shimano shifter/rd is interchangeable in the real world as long as the rd has the capacity.
I've read that 11 sp Shimano and SRAM shifters and rd are also interchangeable with a close enough cable pull ratio in real life.
11 and 12 sp cable pull ratios are once again virtually identical, so compatibility is determined more by cassette size and rd capacity.
The 12 sp Shimano HG+ chain will not work properly with 11 sp or anything SRAM. Not sure why anyone would want to run a SRAM chain on a Shimano 12 sp cassette.
Posted by: thaaad
It really feels easier to just sell them both and buy a new bike but the huge downgrade of parts spec is a real kick in the balls unless I save for like a year lol.
Not only does it feel easier, it IS easier. In my pre kids years, I'd have no issues taking the patience route and parting out bikes and frames and taking my time for the right offer. But nowadays the value on my time is at a premium. Instant gratification is a real thing and you can't put a dollar figure on that.
The problem with tweaking the Banshee to suit is that it's still not really what you want right now, no matter how far you take the tweaking. Then after dropping the $$ to tweak, you end up trying to move on and don't recover that cost anyways
You sound like you need a Ripmo AF. Top line suspension at $4000, serviceable brakes and drivetrain. Swap your new brakes and drivetrain onto the Banshee, new parts help recover some value and adds appeal to buyers. Keep your fancier but more used drivetrain and brakes on the Ripmo. Or just sell everything as is and ride the Ripmo as is and replace as you wear consumables out
I've been working on this for my daughter for about 2 years now, my ultimate max-min project. Bought the frame from Giant's warehouse sale for $25 and went from there. I should be into this for around $500 all said and done, and it's basically done aside from a rear brake lever. I'm still considering hydraulic brakes, but these Avid mechanicals are as good as any 8ish year old should need. I still have a couple years to figure that out.
The classic high bb for this bike with 26" wheels is perfect for 24" wheels sitting right around 12.5" now. Quality short cranks that didn't break the bank were tricky but I found some 152mm Suntour Zerons and they included a steel NW ring and use a normal Shimano 24mm external bb. I'm especially proud of the modern effective seat tube angle, running the old school Raceface seatpost backwards. Not too many posts have a wide enough adjustment range to pull this off.
I'd love to be able to get an angle adjust headset to slack the head angle out a couple degrees, but this is already slacker than what I started out with back in the 90s hah!
Posted by: Chris_Mitchell
About to purchase a Chromag Primer. I was sad to notice the press fit BB - but realized I don't really care as long as it is quiet! (A noisy bike drives me mental). Anyone have any experience/ issues with this on a Primer? Also, I'm a 5'11'' rider going for a size M/L, but was curious if I should size up. Any insights or advice would be appreciated!
I'm an average 5'8" and found my medium Primer a bit short in the cockpit, over time. The M/L is a much better fit for me, so if possible I would suggest throwing a leg over both sizes in the Rootdown to see what works best for you -- I suspect you'd want to move to the L.
With regards to the PF92 bb, I was able to get mine to creak with a Shimano bb. This was after a particularly dusty and rough lift assisted day at the Whistler bike park though. Removing the bb, cleaning, and regreasing solved the issue.
FWIW Chromag are pretty up front about their Taiwanese frames being more consistent in terms of overall build quality. I was told the Canadian made versions have more occasional 'quirks' in comparison, and that makes sense when you consider how they are individually hand crafted locally despite absolute artisan meticulousness
Posted by: tashi
Just get Marino to build you one, and you can taylor the CS length and anything else to your liking. They built a big chunk of those on-ones, which actually started life as Sick bikes but On One bought the stock when Sick couldn't meet their obligations.
Posted by: JVP
^^^ This. Absolutely this.
To add, I have wished for less braking power a grand total of zero times in my life.
I get some find the Shimanos don't modulate great, but I've personally had no issues here and I'm in love with their lever shape also
Posted by: Heinous
I found the oval on my Spartan 27 was really noticeable in how the suspension performance changed when feet were at 3 and 9 oclock. I've had one suspension designing tell me it's in my head, but then subsequently talk about how much ring size does change performance
Were you noticing this 3/9 o'clock performance change while descending? The chainring size/shape effect should only be an issue while actively pedaling, when your feet are fixed in descending position it should have no bearing.
Posted by: RAHrider
I like the ovals for standing climbing - especially over gnar. Gives you that extra bit pushing over the top when on a steep.
That was my experience running an oval on my hardtail. Really slow speed tech moves when climbing, just as I would usually stall out and dab on a round ring, the oval seemed to pull me through those sections.
So I think I've noticed that odd bit of performance enhancement, but I don't perceive the oval otherwise while pedaling under normal circumstances.
I haven't noticed much running the 28t oval on my Trance yet.