UFO profile

I have to totally agree with this train of thought. As a previous Chromag Primer owner and for now a Specialized Fuse rider, there's nothing that my Norco Range 29 enables me to ride that I can't ride on my hardtail.

Sure my line choices are different, my speeds are vastly different, and finally my body also feels very different the next morning.

Riding the hardtail is just a different, more engaging and interactive experience. Maybe if I had the cajones to ride bigger or faster, things would be different on the big bike

https://www.noxcomposites.com/wheel_building#vertical

Reading that makes sense to me, especially seeing the mathematical proof. BUT

I'm also wary of any definitive statements made. When enough experienced riders who's impressions and opinions I respect and trust can tell us anecdotlly that while all other variables are controlled to the best of our abilities, and differences in ride qualities ARE there, there is more going on in the system than what mathematical formulas are telling us at this point. 

Or maybe I'm just a sucker for marketing hogwash.

The one thing we bike dads need to realize is the difference between 'need' and 'would probably be better off'

I recall happily riding my 16" wheel well into my primary school years, my next bike was a 26" wheeled Norco Kokanee in grade 8 :P

Having said that I already have most parts accumulated for 24" and 26" FS bikes for when the kids are ready, and thats at least 5 years away. For the kids, I tell myself

Ps: the original steel princess bmx bike weighed about the same as my own hardtail :P

I was able to find a pre owned bike based on your first look article Andrew. Great recommendation. Our 5 year old transitioned quickly to pedal bikes with no training wheels on a more typical steel bmx bar'd princess bike. So it did take her some time to get used to the more aggro position, but after about a week she's ripping on it. I've got plans to bump the stem down to 40mm (stock was 60mm!) and track down a set of 30-40mm rise bars.

She'll likely be ready for a 20" bike next year, so I had plans to pull the crank/bb/belt off for a larger run bike with hand brakes for her brother who will be 4 next year.

I went all yolo and dove into the Radars as well. Supporting a local culture building company I tell myself

I can only speak to the Crank Brothers Synthesis wheels: 1 week (5 working days) turn around from when the rim broke on trail to a fresh built wheel from brown Santa. Included paid for shipping both ways, no cost on spokes/rebuild.

Is this the case with Altitude and Elements as well? I recall playing with an Altitude back in the day with no shock attached, and it was stiction city

Tell me more about these full complement bearings. That era of Rockys were on bushings as I recall, but not the ABC bushings

IMO we would be doing a disservice if Kona wasn't included in the list of those on the forefront of this geometry movement. They are certainly more mainstream than Mondraker, and much of their lineup for our consumption was commited to LLS

Well there is a bigger chance generally with Shimano and SRAM. I've also had the shop take bits off their floor bikes to get me on my way, while they order in the part and replace it on their floor bike when it arrives. Which bike specs Magura as OEM? It's all about giving yourself the biggest chance of success IMO.

That's why for me after I tried and enjoyed the TRPs, I swapped my 2nd bike to the same setup. So I 'stock' my own emergency replacement parts on the 2nd bike. I try to do the same with my drivetrain, dropper posts, and wheels.

By accessible I meant break something on a Saturday, be able to get replacement parts and back riding the next day or 2

Late to the party, but there are quite a few anecdotal reports of the Magura fancy plastic levers being more fragile than others and breaking off with seemingly little force, while others have been able to withstand big crashes ok.

Magura replacement parts while being less accessible generally, are also more more expensive. 

With the Magura uncertainty when I was looking, I ended up loving my TRP brakes when I decided to try something different from my old Zee/Xt/Slx and now run them on both my bikes.

I remember vividly back in the rigid canti days, I'd have no finger strength left at the end of a ride to shift to a lower gear. Then I'd have to take my dominant hand to unroll my left hand's fingers off the bar.

I ordered and used these 3mm x2 spacers with success at $8 https://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/1988363/

My chainline was fine as I was using a Specialized 142+ wheel that pushes the cassette 2mm to chainstay anyways, so the 3mm spacer restored my chainline almost back to stock. It was a hassle keeping track of 2 extra thin spacers when re/re the rear wheel though. But functionally fine

Spacer kits with a 3mm spacer on either side will not require a re-dish, and probably won't require the rotor to be spaced out either as you can space the IS caliper adapter or move the post mount caliper over a few mm usually.

Posted by: Ddean

There are so many crank specs - how the hell do I know what spec he needs? 2018 Knolly Endorphin with a 73mm treaded BB - GX build if that means anything.

My preference is to replace with trusty cheap XT, but the specs around the BB are driving me crazy......length is of course fine but BB is driving me nuts

You need to pull the 30mm Race Face threaded bb out of the bike.

You need to install a 24mm threaded bb in order to fit any proper Shimano crankset. Shimano's bb is relatively cheap and durable.

Posted by: JBV

are we at peak mtb?  even close?  

My contribution to the future of the sport requires going back into its past, we're talking about 7-10 years maybe.

I went riding with a crew of Chromags yesterday. I decided to bring out my classic Sakura to stretch her legs out. 140mm Fox 32, 19mm wide rims, Kenda Nevegals, Avid mechanical discs, the whole 9 yards.

While it was cool getting mega reps for bringing the Sakura out, the ride was something else. Steep head angle, gearing too high for me to climb things I normally climb, fork travel that blew right through on anything bigger than a baby head, having to reef on the brake levers to kind of slow down, front tire washing out in turns. 

Now before we cool story bro, it was actually a really fun ride, charming even. It was extremely humbling and reminded me how far our gear has come over the past 10 years -- and my main squeeze is a more modern hardtail. 

The other thing I was reminded of was how much our trails have also changed following more capable bikes. Trails today are faster, flowier, and I'd argue more technical even -- not the same janky trialsy tech of yesteryear, but definitely still a challenge in its own right (for me at least)

So to me at least, I'm not sure how much further MTBs can go. Unfortunately I do believe e-bikes are the future as it allows further growth and penetration into the mainstream market. But every now and then the Sakura will shed her various child carrying devices for a run through the woods

Posted by: legbacon

he loves the extra cush in the rear.  I tried it for one ride, it felt a little odd and I could not stop worrying that I had more traction out back than the front. 

I do really enjoy the extra bit of give especially on a hardtail. But the climbing traction gains are the biggest improvement IMO. My plus tire at 14.5 PSI just seems to swallow up smaller roots and rocks and irregularities and you just keep on trucking up and along without nary a slip. 

I don't feel any variance in cornering traction with the plus rear tire; the rear tire, especially on a hardtail, just kind of follows along what the front does in most cases.

My post from the other hardtail thread:

This is my setup of choice, both when I had my Chromags and now my Fuse.

The 2.8/3.0 rear tire gives massive traction, a bit of suspension to take the edge off, and also helps slack out the HA a bit on all frames not named Doctahawk.

Rear tire squirm is not an issue for me on the rear of a HT, it doesn't get pushed into corners near as hard as a FS bike nor is it ridden at the same speeds. The same can't be said of the front though, where I found the 29 front with proper pressure improved on the precision, rollover, and speed of the ride. 27.5+ up front to me felt vague and slightly delayed in steering response.