DrewM profile

I love my Leaf helmet - fit is a personal thing for sure, but if you used to wear a medium Giro and find the new fit (Xar) is not for you definitely try on the Leaf.

It is also very cool that the majority of their helmets (and my Leaf) are actually manufactured in Spain.

-D

@Morgan : Shoreboy's KS barrel would be the cleanest way to do it, as the barrel would but up right against the remote lever and, once tension was right, you could clip the cable flush; I also looked at a few old Canti brake bits with holes that would work.

My rotor bolt/washer/nut job was originally a test of concept that works perfectly and looks bodged (which I enjoy) but there are definitely way cleaner ways to do it.

You do have to admit that the gold Saint barrel adjuster really makes the package though…

-D

Its just a rotor bolt / washers / nyloc nut holding the cable.

I always use Shimano 4mm housing w/ stainless steel cables. It interfaces perfectly with the Gravity Dropper post, inline barrel adjuster and remote.

-D

Also posted below… no tutorial required.

I used: 1x Fox DOSS Remote, 1x Rotor Bolt, 1x Nyloc Nut, 1x Washer (mine is off a front derailleur and has a nifty bent shoulder).

In addition to the DOSS barrel adjuster I run an inline barrel adjuster for maximum tune-ability… but it isn't necessary, the remote's barrel adjuster has more then enough adjustment to pre-load the cable.

I really like my current Gravity Dropper - the latest version with the bolt-on housing guide a la the post reviewed.

The company has Awesome Customer Service, and it takes 30-seconds (tool free) to un-thread the cap, pop the the post out by engaging the remote, and grease the bushings for almost-play-free performance. It is so easy to work on that any one who can change a shifter cable can fully rebuild it.

That said, I think that Morgan should win Olympic Gold for ice dancing around how awful the remote is, and it has nothing to do with adjustable cable tension which can be remedied in 5-minutes or less by adding an inline barrel adjuster.

The remote needs more leverage and a return spring to assist the post's tiny inline spring. In terms of mimicking the smooth function of competing products some kind of bushing or bearing would go a long way as well.

Here is my Fox DOSS remote (easily run on either side, above or below the bar), which has awesome ergonomics, and super smooth performance thanks to the three features above:

I also found the Chute too warm for most riding, even with the zips open. I am running a (similarly priced to the Chute) Gore jacket that is much better, but still only bearable in torrential conditions… otherwise I just get wet in wool.

I was going to ask you how much better the Arcteryx SL is compared to the Chute, and Gore offerings you have tried, but -- while I love nice things -- the thought of crashing my bike in a $750, super-super light Gore material, jacket gives me heart palpitations. I really don't think it is reasonable to compare a good jacket that is relatively affordable for the majority of riders as a go-to piece (Chute) to Arcteryx's absolutely #1 top-end product!

-D

-D

"Sold -- lightly used -- DH bike at end of season (then boarded foreign flagged ship under cover of darkness to escape retribution)"

Very well written Dave.

Questions:

What type of drive mechanism does the hub use? Is it easily user serviceable? Are the wear surfaces replaceable, or machined into the hub shell? How many engagements?

What are the long term testing plans for these wheels? Most riders, thankfully, do not have experience with the original Crank Bros wheels -- in our (Sea-to-Sky) region their failures where legion.

If Crank Bros wants to sell wheels having sponsored pros ride them for miles in the sun, on dry trails, in Laguna is a poor test. If they were serious about showing improved longevity a forum test set-up (a la Specialized tires) where a number of riders - riding year round in our conditions - regularly report on what they are riding and how the wheels are holding up would ensure a multiple sample group.

Otherwise, I don't know anyone who could/would recommend these wheels with good concious on Crank Bros guarruntee that they are improved from the past <>.

-D

Hasn't aged a day!

-D

Awesome!

-D

What about the modulation? I find the gradual increase in power to be a substantial benefit to the Magura brakes.

My favourite thing about their on-trail performance for sure. Progressive power with tonnes on tap when needed.

In my experimenting performance with Servowave levers was very poor. No modulation and a weird power curve likely due to the pads sitting static much closer to the rotor with the Magura calipers compared to Shimano. Raw power is fine but definitely not an improvement over either system as a system.

Running the Magura calipers with non-Servowave Shimano levers performance is very good. No point in doing it with the MT-5 since those blades have a huge range of adjustment (unless if you're wrecking levers all the time - not something I've seen/heard of) but I played around with options because the 7's weren't the best with my small hands. Ended up modifying some stock 7 blades and preferred those.

Now I have HC blades and they're awesome for smaller hands. I prefer the feel of the Magura levers (modified or HC) for a few reasons but that's personal preference.

It's one of the two (?) lines on this rock face. I can never remember if Big Stupid or Semi Retarded is on the right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2gGdToEmpA

Also works okay as a makeshift pair of tweezers, but not the best for that.

Re. Tweezers I started riding with a set of hooked tick removers that double as decent splinter removers in a pinch. F***ing disgusting little disease carrying parasites.

I use the Stan's Tight Valve Lockring Removal Wrench. :lol:

That's a handy little piece of kit for anyone who doesn't have the space/desire to carry a Leatherman.

Space in even the smallest fanny pack…

Fresh sealant works to heal surprisingly large leaks. Even one time when I had a knob tear out of the centre casing.

It's like anything else on a bike that requires upkeep. When a flat occurs in my ride group the sealant is usually dried out (and sometimes waterlogged).

I carry a Leatherman too. Just an old clunky one but there are lots of lighter versions now. I've used it for tubeless valves, valve cores, bending rotors straight, clipping zip ties… always handy on the trail.

I had a similar situation (although just a valve stem vs. ProCore replacement cost wise) in my minimalist no-pack days. Can't beat a free rock from the side of the trail. One quick wham and it's easy to remove the broken valve. Better than walking home because my calve stem was stuck.

I actually bumped into Murray yesterday on the trail and he is still loving his MT5 setup. Warranty was quick and easy for the leak and flawless since then.

My MT5 brakes have done duty on a bunch of different bikes from my Honzo to a Nomad and a few applications in between. They're still awesome after a few sets of pads and multiple bleeds.

The MT5 has a huge range of lever blade adjustment so whether you have tiny or titan hands they work fine.

With the MT7 or MT Trail brakes if you always wear a large glove the stock blades are good. I'm a M/L depending on the brand and I run
The blades as close in as they come.

The HC lever blades have an awesome shape and hook and I'm nowhere near running them to the bar, so I'd highly recommend them if you have small hands and prefer to run the higher end MT7 or MT Trail.

After testing the MT Trail I'd love to see a more budget trail system based off the MT5. The 4-piston front / 2-piston rear is a great mix of power and simplicity. I do think the MT5 offers one of (the?) the best braking values on the market in terms of power, price, quality, and ease of service.

Google is your friend:

Well… you know what they say. If you have to explain the joke it wasn't funny…

If a guy does it to another guy is it still Mansplaining?

would only be good for one month out of the year.thats about all the leg is in session these days.

Isn't that the issue with all renewables? How do you store the energy you don't immediately need for future use // how do you power sh*t in down times?

There is already a Third Crossing. The train bridge crosses the Inlet about 200m East of the Ironworker's Bridge. The track runs within 100 m from Esmond Skytrain Station. "Coast Mountain Express" Squamish to Seabus in 30 minutes, or Squamish to Skytrain in 45. Oh yeah … the train has room for bikes, gear and other junk.

I can see that being beneficial to Squamish in a similar vein to how the West Coast Express transports professionals from the 'burbs to Vancouver and home each day but it would not be a substitute to daily driver/transit traffic back and forth across the inlet.

Never mind track rights (a huge issue with West Coast Express that prevents expansion of the service) that bridge is also going to have to open a lot more once Kinder Morgan's pipeline "twinning" project is complete and ocean traffic has right of way.

Anyways, what I obviously meant was a forth crossing not including Seabus (which rapid transit would replace), red canoes, amphibious cars, etc should bring rapid transit to the Shore.

The time savings alone would get people out of their vehicles especially if centres like Parkgate, Edgemont, etc were connected to the mainline by rapid buses.