Wow its gotten that bad to the point that it can transfer through cyberspace…:dead:

Oh my so many standards…:P

Why does it seem to be so important to mountain bikers on high end bikes for everything to be cross compatible with everything else?

Honda engineers don't sit down with Toyota engineers and discuss coming up with a standard interface between engine and transmission.

KTM and BMW don't ensure that you can swap wheels between a 1190 Adventure R and the R1200GS.

Think of the bike as a complete system and none of this is a problem.

Buy a whole bike, sell a whole bike. Just like cars and motorcycles and dishwashers and everything else. It's the new paradigm in cycling, get used to it.

Feel free to take up knitting if you don't like it.

Healing Vibes Mark!

I don't know Mark personally, but highly appreciate the amount of work he's put into supporting our trails on the North Shore. The following was taken from Mark's facebook page; it's a good message that should be shared.

Get better soon Mark!

(Would be awesome if this could be a positive thread!)

RIP Kiwi Brother.

Hard to believe Great Britain won Olympic gold in men's ice hockey in 1936.

Japan beating South Africa in rugby may be akin to Norway beating us at hockey.

More like Ireland beating us at hockey….

NSMBA is becoming the same bureaucracy we fought years ago so we could ride.

Shiitt, if this is gonna be that kind of party, I'm gonna stick my dick in the mashed potatoes…

It is true, but the real truth is, the more time you spend riding in Loader Light, the better rider you become. Riding in Loader Light has made me a faster/better rider, night rides when he says no lights until he is ready for them, you become more adept to feeling the terrain and riding instinctively.

That said, you still need to carry your lights, just maybe leave them off for an extra 10 minutes, it will improve you skills.

lovetheloader

That's what I said till I supermanned over the bars… lucky my face brought me to a stop. You could say I really felt the terrain, but hey nothing a 5hr visit to the er didn't fix.

You'll all be crying when those battery chargers burn your houses down.
;)

Nahh powers still out so not a problem…

What pressure were you running Taz? How did they feel compared to your current combo?

Thanks to NSMB.com for giving me the opportunity to review these wheels. Please feel free to ask questions or PM me. I check the forum several times a day, so I should be able to respond quickly to your queries.

Initial impression:

My initial impression of the DT Swiss E-1700 29er wheels is very positive. Like JimLad, my wheels were each marked with a QA-type tag which I appreciated knowing that there were a set of actual human hands who checked everything over before they were shipped. Without a doubt, the wheels pass the sexy test. Nice decals (not stickers), satin finish and nothing seemed to be loose or out of place. Spoke tension was all fairly even from the “pluck-test”.

The wheels came with a tubeless kit (tape/valves), but the instructions were incomplete in my opinion(see below). I fitted the rims with one layer of tape and was able to easily mount up my Hans-Dampf/Racing-Ralph combo that I had been running on my previous rims. Minor fiddling required, but they mounted smooth with a floor-pump. These are 26mm inner diameter rims, which is a bit wider than I normally run. The Hans-Dampf and Racing Ralph tires did flatten a bit with the new profile, but the side knobs are still prevalent on the contact patch. If you are running a more square profile (HRII for example, keep this in mind)

I run a 6-bolt rotor, and though that the center-lock assembly was pretty slick. The rotors mounted perfectly to the six prongs on the center-lock, and was easy to tighten up with a bottom-bracket tool. Using a 6-bolt or Shimano’s centerlock rotor has no impact on hub selection from DT, and also allows for some future flexibility with rotor selection. The kit is complete with axle adaptors to quick release. I applaud DT Swiss for their engineering thought process. Minimizing tooling for hub selection is a great way to not only save money as a manufacturer, but also provides the customer with options.

Rotor installed

Install the ring directly to the hub

Connect to the center-lock and add the rotor

Rotor sits cleanly onto the 6-prongs

Add the locking ring and the rotor is securely connected

HUB Assembly: Something I didn't originally comment on.

I was impressed that the DT Swiss folks believe in full-bore cassette installation.

The grooves for the cassette install look like this rather than….

i.e. solid grooves vs, hollow or intermittent.

Concerns or issues from my initial impression:

Now that I have read Jim’s first post, I was disappointed to hear that I should have put on two layers of tape. The tubeless instructions for the wheels only seems to focus on the tubeless valve assembly, without mention of the tape installation, so I reverted to what I knew with Stans or Gorilla. Speaking of tape, I was not a fan of the DT Swiss brand of rim tape. To put it simply, it did not stretch well, and I found I had to spend quite a bit of time working the tape onto the rim and removing air bubbles. I also felt that the tape lacked a bit of adhesion (stickiness), so I’m curios what I will see when I take the tires off after a handful of rides.

First ride impressions are coming up once I can get some pictures.

-Gord

^haha, that's quite the bundle. how many you run at once? hard to resist at that price. my two x2's from last year are still running fine. may grab an x3 because more lumens (and so damn cheap).

http://www.lightmalls.com/black-color-solarstorm-x3-3xcree-xm-l-u2-4-modes-2500-lumen-bicycle-light-4-18650-battery

Also running X2s, +1. Batteries in these are el-cheapo, I'm slowly replacing with panasonic 18650s.