Carl-Wilco profile

DOPE!

nice one foot flatty

bottom right

i actually recognized that bank and remembered this pic when we were walking through the field at nighttime a few days ago
still a sweet pic

super heros sweeeeeet

helmet!

fucking sweet!

I think you're supposed to go home.

heyyy thats my fence!

Who and where!

I want to buy a used truck and they have one that appears in great condition and meets my requirements but I'm getting a very slimy feeling from this dealership (the downtown one on Terminal Ave).

https://www.google.ca/search?q=dueck+gm[HTML_REMOVED]ie=utf-8[HTML_REMOVED]oe=utf-8[HTML_REMOVED]gws_rd=cr[HTML_REMOVED]ei=F_EjWM70GpbUjwO076voDQ#q=dueck%20gm[HTML_REMOVED]tbs=lf:1,lf_ui:2,lf_pqs:EAE[HTML_REMOVED]rflfq=1[HTML_REMOVED]rlha=0[HTML_REMOVED]rllag=49201146,-123091174,7656[HTML_REMOVED]tbm=lcl[HTML_REMOVED]rldimm=161539911610889306[HTML_REMOVED]gws_rd=cr[HTML_REMOVED]lrd=0x54867142efaa6317:0x23de7b1989d745a,1,

They have a decent rating on Google, but I looked through the reviews and almost all of the five star ones are very formulaic ("Went into Dueck. Had a great experience with _ in the _ department!") made by users with no other Google reviews, so that seems suspicious. I don't read Google reviews much so maybe they're all like that…

Anyone have any experience there?

I like where this discussion is going as I want some new tires. I have a set of 30x9.5x15 BFG AT KO's (not the new KO2's), which I've found extremely bad on wet pavement. I love them off road in the summer, and they've been pretty good in snow, but I am terrified driving in the rain… even a light sprinkle of rain has me easily spinning out when starting from a stop on a hill, and needing an abnormally long space to stop. I don't remember how they were when they were new, but for sure within 10-15,000km they were starting to get pretty bad in the wet. At 30,000km now and they've only gotten worse. I'm sure it's partially my vehicle (2000 Jeep Cherokee), but has anyone else noticed this tire is particularly bad on wet pavement? I know they have the snow peak rating but they really haven't seemed special on the snow either, unless it's dry and packed.

Most of my driving is just to work Mon-Friday in the city, but pretty much every weekend in the winter I take my snowmobile on a trailer somewhere between Squamish and Pemberton, which often means having to drive a few km's up the logging roads until I meet the snow line. This can get extremely sketchy as you'll sometimes have to drive a few hundred m over patchy packed snow before you find somewhere you can park or turn around, and I really don't want to get stuck spinning out somewhere with the trailer.

So my ideal tire would be very good in snow, good on logging roads (they don't usually have deep mud), and also good on wet pavement. The Cooper AT3's sound pretty interesting, anyone have experience in snow with them?

Seems like some of you have quite a bit of knowledge here so maybe someone could help me.

Some of the clamps from the rear leaf spring fell off my 2000 Jeep Cherokee. These are the ones with 2 or 3 per leaf pack, which I think basically just keep them from fanning out side to side. The mechanic I go to, which is usually very reliable, thinks they would have to take the leaf springs off, send them to someone that specializes in leaf springs, and have them fix it. This seems very excessive for a flimsy part… problem is that they are riveted on the bottom of the leaf spring. From what I can see on this site below, I don't see a part number for them so that makes sense, they are just part of the stock leaf spring pack…

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=661208[HTML_REMOVED]ukey_make=1064[HTML_REMOVED]ukey_model=15525[HTML_REMOVED]modelYear=2000[HTML_REMOVED]ukey_driveLine=7407[HTML_REMOVED]ukey_trimLevel=18765[HTML_REMOVED]searchString=leaf%20clamp

A bit of Googling seems to reveal a ton of DIY setups like these:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=jeep+xj+oem+leaf+spring+clamp[HTML_REMOVED]biw=1920[HTML_REMOVED]bih=943[HTML_REMOVED]source=lnms[HTML_REMOVED]tbm=isch[HTML_REMOVED]sa=X[HTML_REMOVED]ei=-WaHVfuQHIzSoAT0oaTAAg[HTML_REMOVED]ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ#imgrc=Wsdop4wQffnCiM%253A%3Blk8PptgqqU7pjM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.cherokeeforum.com%252Fattachments%252Ff2%252F8212d1258851882t-budget-leaf-spring-clamps-imgp1433.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.cherokeeforum.com%252Ff2%252Fbudget-leaf-spring-clamps-29566%252F%3B700%3B327

I don't want to spend $600-800 to replace this POS little part if other people get by using some bolted-together steel pieces to do the same job. I'll probably talk to one or two of the shops in Abby that have been recommended here, but wondering if anyone here has any experience with something like this?

if you have a high ratio mortgage where the pricipal is 80% or more of your home's value and the value suddenly drops 25% your mortgage is now more than the value of your home. if you have to sell you could be in a situation where you still owe your lender a significant amount of money after all is said and done.

it would be interesting to know how many people in metro van have mortgages that are at 75% or above of their homes current value.

That's a good point, but overall wouldn't you be in a similar situation as mentioned above? You'd have less cash after settling up, but other homes would have also gone down in value at the same rate so you'd still be in the ballpark of buying another. Although I definitely forgot to add banks to the list of benefactors from high housing prices.

well there is some legitimacy to that - it would suck to work hard for years and buy a place only to lose 25% of the value overnight

That's the bit that doesn't really make sense. If your home goes up in value, other homes in surrounding regions are going up at the same rate. If you sell your house "for a profit", and want to keep living in the same area, it's going to cost you your entire selling proceeds to buy a similar house again.

The only way you actually see a benefit of your house's value increase is by picking up your chips and leaving the lower mainland. Very few people do this. The only people actually benefiting from increased real estate prices are developers and realtors.

Portland has the most strip clubs per-capita in the US.

http://content.time.com/time/travel/cityguide/article/0,31489,1975826_1975753_1975585,00.html

Is this not working for anyone right now?

http://www.reddit.com/r/hockey/comments/237cg6/how_to_watch_every_game_live_during_the_playoffs/

It was working for me all playoffs so far, up until now…

Does the program Peerblock work to stop this?
http://www.peerblock.com/

LOTS of choices if your budget is 2G…keep your eyes peeled.
Choice example..I talked to this guy, unfortunately it's a size small or I'd have picked'er up…he swears literally one ride on it!
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-mountain-bike/kamloops/brandnew-2012-kona-operator-d-h/574604830?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Whistler bike guy…$200 handling fee to ship it!? l.o.l.go.suck.a.bag.o….

That Kona looks pretty solid too! Interesting news about the Faiths, I didn't realize it was such a niche market these days. Ideally I'm looking for a Freeride/DH bike leading heavily to the DH side, XC capability is not a priority, but I'd like one that can still get some pop off jumps. I've always liked the look of the Glories, so I'll probably try to check out bikes from that sketchy Whistler guy in person as I'm up there lots anyways.

Appreciate all the input guys, I'll be a bit more patient when looking for a good deal.

http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1390974/

It looks like this bike was used to rent out for Whistler Bike Park… anyone think this this would be a good deal? One one hand, I imagine it has more riding on it than most 3 or 4 year old bikes. On the other hand, it would have been maintained well and most people renting bikes wouldn't be riding hard anyways.

I need to get back in the MTB game, but want to find a good deal first. Any advice?

Also looking at this one…
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1418193/