coolatt profile

F#ck. You rode all that, that smooth, on a hardtail?

Posted by: grambo

Posted by: coolatt

I have one already.  I liked it better that the luftkappe as I don't run volume spacers.

Posted by: Hepcat

I just bought a Debonair cartridge for the Pike, retails for $42 if you're looking for cheap...

Can you expand that a bit (Luftkappe vs Debonair upgrade)? I have the Luftkappe in my 2017 150mm Pike and love it... but I want to put in a 160mm air shaft which would be the new Debonair.. was debating whether to swap my Luftkappe over or try the Debonair.

I run one bottomless token with the Luftkappe (used to run 2 stock), 108psi, rebound 4 from closed, LSC 9 from closed.

At the time, as stock I was not running any volume spacers. Installing the luftkappe reduces the volume of the positive spring equal to a spacer and adds it to the negative side. So by reducing the positive volume, increasing the negative volume and running less pressure as recommended, I felt the fork was too soft in the beginning and to stiff at in the end. 

The debonair spring adds negative volume via a hollow shaft and does not reduce the positive volume. I just prefer the debonair piston, higher pressure and no spacers.

Posted by: thaaad

Fluid Function in Squamish can sort you out.

I am hoping for local so I can drop off and pick up. If not I will shoot them a email

I have one already.  I liked it better that the luftkappe as I don't run volume spacers.

Posted by: Hepcat

I just bought a Debonair cartridge for the Pike, retails for $42 if you're looking for cheap...

I was thinking that a shim re-tune on my RC might be cheaper and just as good as a charger 2 upgrade for what I'm looking for. I'm not confident in doing a damper teardown. Is there a local shop or tuner that could do it?

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/rockshox-pike-charger-2-upgrade-worth-1085362.html

Posted by: syncro

Posted by: coolatt

Our strata does not cover windows.

What I'm asking about is the installation procedure, is that a common route to take when replacing a window. From what I can tell, if they are going the route I described. it's more labour intensive than just slapping on some new trim and may also be more waterproof as it can be sealed better.

The installation methods depends on the type of old window vs the new as well as the type of siding. There's a specific way to install windows per the building code that is aimed at keeping water from getting past the window and inside the wall. The size of the window casing/trim is about aesthetics as well as keeping water from getting between the siding and the sheathing (plywood). The siding should run underneath the window casing as it helps to keep water out. If the siding just butts up against the window casing then it relies on caulking to keep water from getting behind the siding which is more susceptible to leaking over time if the caulking is not maintained. The way the window flashing is done is also important for keeping water out.

Have you talked to your strata about the window installation? How concerned are they about the look of the finished product. If they want it to look the same then the suggested method by your installer won't match up. It also may not provide as good a barrier to water penetration as the casing sitting on top of the siding. Are they charging you hourly or did they give you a fixed price for the job?

As an aside it seems weird that your strata doesn't cover windows, as switch said the building envelope is typically the responsibility of the strata as it falls under limited common property. I would double check your strata bylaws just to be sure that owners are responsible for windows. The standard bylaws as set out by the province of BC state that the strata is responsible for the windows, so your strata bylaws should specifically state that the owners are responsible.

Thanks for the info. I'll keep this in mind when I talk to to the window company again. This has come up because the finished product ( mainly the style of window with mutton bars) must look the same as the existing window but the trim style will also be an issue.

Just to be clear again. Our Strata is not responsible for replacing windows. An owner can replace windows at their expense and must meet the strata by-law requirements. I don't know about other strata's but that's how ours is.

Our strata does not cover windows.

What I'm asking about is the installation procedure, is that a common route to take when replacing a window. From what I can tell, if they are going the route I described. it's more labour intensive than just slapping on some new trim and may also be more waterproof as it can be sealed better.

We are getting new windows installed in a few days in our 25 year old 3 level townhouse. The trim was delivered ahead of time so we could paint it first, but the trim they delivered is an inch thicker and an inch wider that what we have now.

Because we live in a townhouse with Strata by-laws the look of the trim has to match what was there before. I spoke with the installer and he told me that the new trim will sit against the plywood wall, not on top of the siding like the current trim. No other unit in our complex with the original or new windows looks to be this way, not even another unit that used this same company.

So is this a legit explanation? To make the finished product look the same as what exists now they would have to cut down the siding around all the windows so the new trim sits beside it instead of on top of it. Then they would have to rip all the new boards down to the correct width. All the trim we just painted will have an exposed edge (no paint or primer). I'll have to hire a painter to go fix that. Why would they not order the correct width in the first place?

Thanks

Posted by: tungsten

So, first thing this morning wifey and I are standing at the dining room table dressing kittys cancer lesions and I notice the red Netflix logo displayed on the tv screen.

Me - "Did you get a Netflix account or something?"

Wifey - "No, why is the tv on?"

Me -"I didn't turn it on. You did."

Wifey (glaring) - "I did not turn the tv on!"

Buy this time there's a screen wide ad prompting us to get a Netflix account(?).

Very creepy. Wonder if this came as part of the update I couldn't work around and had to accept?

Also, as an Open Box purchase there's still some guy named "Wing" and his u-tube favorites loaded haven't bothered to figure out how to delete.

Maybe he's watching us?

Two days ago my Sony bluetooth speaker turned on by itself and stated it was searching for a signal. Weird, it was definitely off and no one was near it.

Thanks,I will have a look once I pull up the carpet. 

The house is 29 years old, old I've lived in it for 11 years and we replaced the carpet 10 years ago. I never inspected the subfloor when the carpet was installed . The floor has never been wet since I've lived there, and there are no water marks or leaks on the ceiling below the room (bare drywall). My thought is that it's from age and heat, as the room faces west and is the floor directly above the garage, both are hot in the summer.

My subfloor needs repair. The sheets are bowing up against each other and creating ridges in the carpet you can both see and feel. I can actually see an 8x4 perimeter ridge in one area.

I have contacted a few flooring sales/repair places. They either haven't returned my email/call or won't take on the task unless I'm buying new flooring and installation. Carpet re-stretchers only do the carpet. 

Does anyone know a company/contractor who can fix my subfloor and re-stretch the carpet? Alternatively I've considered fixing the subfloor myself but I'm not sure of the best way to go about it, sand and level or replace the plywood. One day I will be putting laminate down, so the floor will need to be smooth and level so I might as well fix it right this time.