taprider profile

2017 Rocky Mtn Element was spec'ed with FSA Orbit NO.57E headset and 105 mm long head tube

where do you get a Works Components angleset on the North Shore and how do you figure out what size you need?

they currently have a plaid-look and a work-glove-look though

Are those gloves knit or are they a printed nylon fabric?

While checking on the weight of an old Huret Jubilee derailleur (145 gm  http://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/Huret_Jubilee_derailleur_2248.html ), I came across this

"Brian Eno once confessed that he liked to explain to ‘young people’ that, back in the bad-old-low-tech-flared-trousered-analogue days things were so backward that you could fly from London to New York in three and a half hours and men regularly walked on the Moon. He might have added that you could buy an off-the-peg touring derailleur that weighed 145g."

38:14, 32:20, 26:26 and 20:32 that is 4+4 not 4x4.

12 speed lateral spacing front and rear with room for wide tires (that is accepting a non-roadie Q factor) and no cross chaining. Basically 4 single speed set ups in parallel (and the front rings would not be as wide as old 3X, since you don't have to account for cross-chaining and rub on the next biggest ring)

Shimano front pull side swing type derailleurs front and rear for hard tail (and you could probably get away with only one pulley for the rear derailleur on a dual suspension bike).

Cable from the front derailleur would continue from the mounting bolt to the rear, so both derailleurs would be controlled with only one cable (or possibly a splitter but still only one shifter, and the springs of each derailleur would cancel each other out for lighter feel at the shifter).

This would be useful to me for Fromme rides, or bikepacking routes where there is a lot of lifting and/or strapping the bike to one's back for long portages (every gram counts, since I have been at my limit with a 24lb bike plus camping gear, food and water, and lighter drivetrain would equal a dropper post, warmer clothing, funner tires or a beer).

Could be ~150 gm for chain rings, ~150 gm for cheap rear cogs (without getting into crazy spider-like milling or carbon carriers), ~110 gm each derailleur and ~80 gm for a simple shifter with no clockworks (so still lighter than Eagle or XTR 1X, plus single speed efficiency and no dangling cages)

^ just say I build a green "ride beside" from the teeter to the hump on Ladies (but let the green be 2 way) and you would basically be there by connecting some existing dog walking trails  ;-)

Thanks Andrew. Good story.

I too was surprised late Monday afternoon how many people were on Boundary (I was riding down this time too)

and narrower rims if most of your flats are from sidewall cuts

You could also go much narrower rims and use a Pepi's Rokline and still be lighter than your current rims without a liner

Pepi's would give you back the sidewall support you lost for going to a narrower rim

needs a Trust linkage fork

done

I wonder how it will be used?

Posted by: craw

If two bikes have the same ETT but one has a steeper seat tube angle then it by definition has less reach. Is that what you mean?

Yes, so without changing Reach, as the seat tube gets steeper the ETT would be less. Or steeper STA and same ETT would increase reach

In addition, you could have 2 bikes with the same reach, but one is a slack head angle, long heat tube, long fork 29er, and the other is a steep head angle, short head tube short travel 27er, and you would have vastly different front centres (BB to front axle length) and would be like comparing a chopper to a road bike (stack would be different too).

As far as additional spacers increasing stack but reducing reach, you could just turn your stem upside down if you add enough spacers (if it is not 0 degree), or you might even need a longer stem ;-)

OK

I could go for an e-cargo bike to transport my Real Bike and dogs to the trails

and 2500 watts and a throttle with electric warmer grips, and no chain or fully enclosed drivetrain

I have been using Pepi's Rokline Noodles (the yellow/enduro ones, not the red/Race ones) mainly with 2.25 Racing Ralph but lately a 2.35 Nobby Nic, both with 22mm ID rims (narrow rims are super cheap these days).

The noodle compresses into the narrow rim and uses up almost all the lateral space inside the tire, so laterally the tire is supported as if it has greater than 30 psi in it; however, vertically (for at least10 mm) the tire is very soft and feels like what ever your pressure gauge says it should feel like.

At first I was having trouble getting the rim-tape to stick, so had multiple times to test the run-flat capabilities (no damage to rim, tire or noodle after riding out a downhill trail + 5km of pavement at 0 psi to get home). The noodle locks the bead to the rim (providing you are not racing World Cup DH), so it is just easier to deal with the flat when you get home rather than trying to fix on a trail.

That first 10 or so mm of vertical travel makes a small tire feel like a fat tire when riding over chunky rail ballast (but still accelerates and is agile like a small tire). Much less rolling resistance over chunky stuff and I can't feel much if any difference on pavement.

Typically I run 5psi less than non-insert pressures.

Posted by: peterk

Say you get $1000 back for buying an e-bike, bringing them closer in line with a similar spec mtb, but with a motor! Would you? Will tempt a lot of even the hard line riders.

No

Posted by: Pnwpedal
 I'm a slightly left-leaning libertarian (F#&K Trump; Tulsi 2020).

https://www.gocomics.com/bloom-county/2019/11/14

being interesting to see the results of your poll if it is posted to the PinkBike or MTBR forums you refer to

I know someone who can rebuild it and has the equipment (he was a friend of Ingrid)

Ebikes make people grumpy.

Including ebike riders - don't ever jokingly call them a cheater when they pass you on a climb (you might get your head torn off)

thanks

I will try them out