taprider profile

I haven't had any problem with my 9point8 or pump, but wondering how you clean a pump just in case?

open it up and fill it with alcohol then spray it out a into a paper towel or clean rag a few times until the spray looks clean? or any other better  technique?

@""DO NOT CUT""

there was an earlier version of the regular 9Point8 that could be trimmed on the bottom to fit shorter tubes (or save up to 30 gm)

so how would it be with a flat bar and long inner bar ends?

Did Dave still blow away his previous best times with a blown shock?

Equally curious

and wondering if the 7cm longer front centre than the previous Element will limit the ability to use a light/fast rolling front tire

Also some racers have supposedly been using a 120mm fork without the 10mm head tube spacer. Wonder how that changes things.

you are right Andrew

Norco does not have a Canadian patent for a telescoping seatpost

I believe Ralph went for the US patent first, but in the mean time Norco scooped under the US patent for Canada (which Ralph did not have the resources to enforce legally for Canada)

edit: based on hazy memories of word of mouth info from before the Turn of the Century

now try adding a bikepacking seat bag ;-)

Rad article

thanks

+1 for Jungle Boogie 

Posted by: Vikb

Whenever I come across an aesthetic or technical choice made by someone who runs a bike company that I don't like [the choice, not the person] I remind myself that's the privilege you get for making something and if I wanted to do something different I could go right ahead and start my own bike company. Usually about then I STFU and move on. ;-)

I would just take it off and make my own sticker to replace it

what do you mean old and new designs?

in the early 1980s bikes were slack and had long chain stays, but by the late 1980s chain stays were short as possible and seat tube angles steeper

(old) people have been getting on with adapting and experimenting with new designs for a long time, and many have the experience and perception to tell if new designs are marketing BS or actual improvements

Regarding QRs.  Most riders dismount on the left side of the bike. So if you need to do a quick wheel change in a road race or fix a flat in an old school xc race, you save time whipping your wheel off.

Filiform corrosion

https://www.google.com/search?q=Filiform+corrosion&client=firefox-b-d&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjrgfrwx5v4AhU2IzQIHe5nDI4Q_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1920&bih=932&dpr=1#imgrc=OpUGrtkoOtLewM

mutated shipworms

^

WOAH! crazy man

Etch A Sketch Rorschach test

any photos?

I've got a double clear coat over raw on my 2013 Samurai65 and it has a very cool spider web patina that's developed under the clear coat on the low impact areas of the frame, elsewhere like the bottom of the downtube where more rock strikes have impacted its more just solid rust-like patina. Have considered repainting a few times, but it's pretty unique imo.

I would like this saddle for a frankenbike

https://www.selleitalia.com/en/saddles/flite-bonnie/

cross between a 1990s road bike/xc race bike and a 1960s chopper/mustang/stingray

Steep seat tube angles for technical climbing might not be such a good idea.

The biggest mistake I see, for when people can't make an uphill move, is that their butt is planted in the saddle.

You should be barely weighting the saddle and be on a hair trigger to snap your butt up and forward and then thrust your bike forward of your centre of gravity.

If you are too comfortable being planted on the saddle, you are less likely to be ready to lift your butt when required.

Choose a saddle position/seat angle best suited for lower gradient gravel and paved climbs, then move forward and perch daintily on the nose for technical climbs.

Regarding Triple B's

I made this decal for a tall female's Santa Cruz TallBoy