Stihlgoin profile

Just bought those in the 4” size KBN-100S. I considered them a splurge until after the first cut zip tie. No more sharp edges. Perfectly smooth. I also have Tsunoda duck bill pliers and two different long nose pliers. Beautiful machining.

Knipex 4811J0 are perfect for brake master cylinder circlips.

Wholeheartedly concur. (Both points)

Also agree.  Naming was good and they wore well. I ran a Verdict/Judge combo for over a year on my full sus rig and really liked them.  Replacement cost this past year was too much for my taste, so I acquiesced to my son’s advice (and wallet’s sensibility) and went with Specialized Butchers front and rear for $40-45 USD each.  Both T9 with light casing up front and trail casing in the rear with a Rimpact Pro insert.  The transition from center to cornering knobs was initially so smooth with the switch, I felt uncomfortable on my bike.  The WTB Verdict had such an “on-off” switch feel when leaning the bike that I had grown used to, I guess.  I now much prefer the feel and bite of the Butchers.  

Used to ride some natural rubber Panaracer Smoke and Dart on my ‘95 GT Tequesta back in the day.  Similar look to the fat bike above.

I absolutely agree regarding the durability of the Leatt 2.0 shoes.  We picked up some for our son as a more weatherproof alternative to Shimano GR7s when it got cold and wet last year.  Not only were we able to find them at a great discount, they took some serious weather abuse without flinching.  We ended up purchasing a second pair (again, at a discount) to rotate between wet and dry pairs.  They are a bit warm for summer, but the Shimanos go back on for warm weather.  He feels the grip is good enough for flat pedal trials riding.  The sole is stiffer than Shimano by a bit, if anyone is thinking of trying them.

I have had two V2 posts (sold one with a bike) that have only needed routine maintenance.  No bushing issues.  

Now, on to the V1.  To avoid a complete rebuild (I still have one of these in service and in great working order) purchase the replacement bushings.  These don’t fix the stiction issue in and of themselves.  Enter Red Green sans the duct tape.  I remove the bushing that is sticking and sand it with 400 or 600 grit paper at the ends, inside and out.  These areas get deformed by the post action. Once the ends are thinned out and smooth again, a little Slickoleum is all you need.  I also sand the whole outside of the bushing lightly to make it easier to reinstall (pre Slickoleum -forgot that step).

Anecdotally, I have used Slickoleum after a good degreasing on a Raceface BB and have it going on three years of service….

Posted by: skooks

Posted by: Stihlgoin

Timely info on the grease. Thanks. I was just replacing my cassette tonight. I have some red grease to throw in. I have only been using waterproof grease and Slickoleum for my various bike bits, but will gladly try this. I’ve only used it for mower spindles thus far.

Be careful there. Grease that's too heavy can cause Free hub  pawls to stick and possibly not engage properly.  This happened to a friend of mine in the winter when the low temperature made the problem worse. I'm not too particular about grease for most applications, but for freehubs I get the proper stuff. Dumondetech is highly recommended.

I used the Dumondetech on the pawls and seal, red grease in the cheap bearing only.  Waterproof grease on the endcap seal.  The hub was clean inside, but the bearing was in need of some grease for certain.  We will now see how long this bearing lasts with some minor attention.

Timely info on the grease. Thanks. I was just replacing my cassette tonight. I have some red grease to throw in. I have only been using waterproof grease and Slickoleum for my various bike bits, but will gladly try this. I’ve only used it for mower spindles thus far.

I replace the outboard freehub bearing yearly on my I9 1/1 hub.  When I was initially looking for a replacement for the stock Enduro bearing I had little success in finding one from a quality manufacturer.  I bought a four pack of cheap Chinese bearings from Amazon out of desperation, made my own bearing press with hardware store bin parts and what do you know - same lifespan as the Enduro bearing (1 year) with no coddling to help it along.  I may just pull the seal and throw some Slickoleum in now that the subject came up.  I can’t say that for the price of my wheelset I am disappointed in the 1/1s, but I am unlikely to go out of my way to purchase them for future wheels.  I can get Spank wheels with hexdrive hubs cheaper with no apparent downsides yet.