T0m profile

I’ll give you that on Ventana custom pricing- I definitely forgot that $3200 US is well under average for a top-line carbon frame today. Ventana’s mod-single pivot suspension is simple and very rigid laterally, noticeably so, and the welds and workmanship are top level. I don’t think they’re far off the sharp end of the market with better stock geometry and some attention to kinematics. This actually has me thinking more about them.

Interesting, was checking Ventana’s website out last weekend. I had one in the mid-aughts for a few years when they still sold used frames and it was impressive for the time. They still make incredible alu frames but their geometries have not progressed since about 2013. They will do full custom geo frames for about $3200. Not sure that is a good value when carbon is readily repairable.

I have run MT Trail Sports with HC levers for two years now and really like the consistent feel and power over the SLX I had before. The stock Performance pads were garbage in my experience. They glazed immediately and never broke in. Magura should ship only Race pads. Seriously, why even offer a lower friction pad for modern mountain bikes?

I use the Copper-free metallic pads that Cedric Gracia developed with the German pad seller Disco Brakes, who sell good value pads. The Copperfrees have high braking power and last well with noise on par with Shimano. Discobrakes has a website cheerfully designed in 2002 but these pads are worth a go IME.

Carbotecture is a polarizing material. I’ve not had any issues but shop rats swear they’ve seen cracked and leaky MCs. Magura makes carbotecture OEM clutch cylinders for BMW which seems like a strenuous test environment for the material, minus bike crashes tho.

Shimano has basically disposable aluminum master cylinders once worn, so not sure how they’re any better than composite material. If someone has pictures of an exploded or sheared Magura MC from crashing please share. I will agree Carbotecture levers are flexy trash, metal levers all day.

Digital calipers are so nice, perhaps because of my *mature* eyesight. Soft faced hammers are great - Andrew nailed why because you don’t have to hold the wood block that’s “just as good.” Also nothing like it for driving proud frets back into their fretboard. Although a drill press used as a press is great for that too, and much more, but not very EDC friendly.

Saves 84g with otherwise little apparent benefit, and an eye-watering price. Maybe it’s stiff AF and flex is the real killer of dropper bushings. I mean it’s possible, but I’m skeptical. I definitely have put rock strike dings in dropper shafts before, and the grinding paste that inevitably develops under the external seal has to be bad for the carbon surface.

Yep. Carbon is repairable, theoretically DIY even, and I would probably try it myself if needed. Aluminum is recyclable at least, but carbon, not so much yet. I’m happy enough with my current frame I would strongly favor repair if it ever comes to that.

I would pay for NSMB content. Hell I should be a lifetime member just for the Andrew Major zeitgeist that I represent with my wallet. Rigid fork? Yep. 29+ hardtail with adjustable dropouts? Yeah I got one. Artisanal mustache, I mean handlebars? Yeah- one for every bike in the house, literally even the kid’s. SQLab saddles and push-on grips, plastic brake levers, Cinch cranks and tiny  chainrings, min-maxed shift components, and missing cogs from 11-speed cassettes for better chainline. How bout wide and WTB alloy rims, Magura MT Trail brakes, big ass rotors, a Manitou shock by choice, multiple anglesets, and a self-maintained, modified FIT Fox fork? It’s shameless, man.

If the steerer tube will end up only 4mm short of the stem top I would not be especially concerned though it’s not ideal. Any more than that would be a no go for me. Works’ -2 set appears to have a total stack of 25mm, but the Wolftooths are very nice units. Hope you can find a way.

Karate Monkeys are kinda short in reach but not unreasonably so. Going to a 650b rear wheel would actually shorten reach as well as slack out the seat angle just as much as the head angle, IMO not that helpful. A shorter fork will only make head and seat angle steeper, lower the BB slightly, and give a minimal increase to reach, also not a positive set of changes if you want stability. 

An angleset lowers the BB height a bit and steepens seat angle about +.1 degree per -.5 degree of head angle. It does multiple positive changes to older MTB geometry as the slacker head angle increases trail, front center, and wheelbase. Steeper seat angle? Slight, but yes. Lower BB height? Slightly, but also yes. They do shorten reach but that is a few mm overall not significant. A 2016 KM has a 44mm head tube and Works Components has a perfect -2 degree EC44 candidate for you at about 60 GBP.

I have used an Angleset -1.5 and Works Components -2 equivalents for almost a decade now and am definitely biased but always think they make a positive change. Also don’t discount sliding those rear dropouts all the way back. It’s free and a reversible change. Long chainstays have no downsides in my opinion, except for some strange cases like fatbikes in soft snow.

Got an MT500 jacket new from eBay last year at considerably less than retail. I’ve never had a truly high-end shell but can confirm this one seems durable as can be for its weight, is way more breathable than the average rainshell, and seems unfazed by any amount of rain/sleet/snow/mud. The huge hood can be a difference maker in a downpour or hailstorm. The price is hard to swallow, no doubt, but I tend to have outerwear for many years and repair when necessary so it spreads the cost.