eriksg profile

I have a V1, so I guess that's something that has been improved in the new version. The actuator in mine is the old style with an O ring coupling two metal parts.

Thanks for the info, I don't mean to spread FUD about things that have been fixed.

I don't know that the PNW is better since I haven't used one yet. I'm just looking for an alternative. On the OneUp, the little disc inside the actuator head that transfers pressure from housing to the actuator pin likes to get misaligned. And any drag of the housing against the frame during install (I have a tight bend between two frame ports) means you end up with too much housing or a gap and the post doesn't work.

9point8 is the option that might really solve that, with firmly attached housing at the actuator.

You make a great point on adjustability and design. I'm chewing on the question of PNW or OneUp right now for my wife's bike, and it makes about a 10mm difference in total drop. But we're talking about a 170 lowered to 160 vs. a 180 lowered to 170, which is firmly within the realm of luxury either way. Once you're down to barely squeaking in a 120 post it really matters. I find the OneUp actuator a real pain to fit and live in dread of removing my seatpost for any reason, but they really optimized length on those.

I also picked an SQLab saddle in part because of their low saddle stack height. I find them great for comfort myself, but I'd be curious to know what else is out there that has really compact rails.

I've had different experiences personally. I have MT7s on my main bike and MT Trail Sport on my backup. The trail brakes have shorter free stroke and a much firmer feel. The MT7s have bigger free stroke and feel more rubbery. Absolute power maybe goes in their favour, but I find the action a bit sloppier overall (even after many many bleeds, and remains consistent over months of use). It is enough of a difference that it bugs me when I switch back and forth.

Furthermore the 'BAT' adjuster that supposedly changes free stroke on the MT7s appears to do nothing at all in my experience.

I like the brakes for power + lower price + mineral oil, but I'm not sure if I got a bad set or if that's just how they are.

I believe the issue is less that it won't stop you when the lock ring comes loose that first time. The splines will transmit the braking force just fine. The issue is that any slop left unattended will wear away the centerlock interface to eventual failure, trashing your potentially expensive hubs in the process.

This 50mm "2.3" thing (which I've heard repeated elsewhere) does make me wonder whether sizing has changed substantially, and whether other brands had similarly optimistic numbers.

Are 2.3s across the board wider than they used to be? And does the expansion of the 29er segment mean even if they aren't wider, they have more air volume and contact patch and thus are closer to 27.5x2.6s of yesteryear in certain performance metrics?

(Asking as someone who has only ridden 26x2.0-2.2 and 29x2.35 and for whom the latter is therefore a big tire.)

I'll have to check those places out some time when I'm back east. Hopkinton State Park and Callahan were my home trails.

As someone who pretty quickly graduated to and rode full suspension bikes when I was starting out, a K2 Attack and then graduating to a Specialized FSR, it's interesting to consider that maybe I enjoy hardtails so much now precisely because I had the experience and developed the skill. Maybe it's also that a modern hardtail is still a huge step up in grip and confidence from mid/late 2000s era full suspension XC bikes, due to brakes, tires and geo. But I've recently loved razzing an old rim brake hardtail too, a bike I hated 15 years ago. That has to be a change in skills and perspective.

I talk up the hardtail for sure. I also don't try to dissuade my friends who buy carbon full sussers as first bikes. But I think my honest advise on what to do would depend a lot on the person's attitude. Are they looking for fast and fun quickly? Or are they going to be committed in the face of difficulty or even want to be pushed to learn skills in that way? Interest and aptitude (and income) to do maintainance would come into it, but I think the perspective the person has is critical. And honestly fast and fun quickly is probably the majority of people, and there's nothing wrong with that.

Well most steel bars I've seen out there are heavy. But Ti ones aren't, albeit at a price premium. So far this material alternative hasn't come up.

Stanton is apparently making some now. And the Roost Ti bars I put on still came in under 300g, exactly 50g heavier than the carbon Nukeproofs I took off.

Off topic, but where north of Boston do you ride? I grew up in MA, riding hiking trails around Framingham.

I don't think I need or want *stiff*. Just slightly stiffer than the Freeriders. The more I work on riding technique and turning the bike with my feet, the more I notice the flex and lack of arch support, which I did not notice in more passive riding/turning with the bars. But pedal feel is still important to me, vs. having no feedback whatsoever.

Posted by: Kenny

I feel like options for straight steerer (I assume it's straight) longer travel 29er forks are pretty limited.

On the flip side, the options for straight steerer rigid 29er forks with decent axle to crown lengths are pretty plentiful.

If you ask me, this bike is begging for a 480-510mm axle to crown rigid fork and to be used as a light trail/commute/gravel/all terrain beastie.

I believe that era of TransAm is a 44mm straight head tube, so takes tapered forks with an EC lower. Compatibility shouldn't be a problem. I would think he could even get a degree or so of slackening out of an angleset if desired.

Not sure what the cause of the issues with the current fork is. Halfton, are you a bigger or harder rider?

Posted by: tashi

It’s based on avoiding getting a chainring tattoo on your leg by always using the left side.

Since I went to 1x I find this less likely under all dismount circumstances.

Since moving to flats after years on clips, I find that's what gets me. And it is always on my right shin/calf because I'll take my right foot off first.

Posted by: XXX_er

ime you can fix the mesh with seam grip ( Liquid ureathane ) which is also good for all kinds of repairs

Mm, good tip. I'll try that.

Posted by: Vikb

Whenever I come across an aesthetic or technical choice made by someone who runs a bike company that I don't like [the choice, not the person] I remind myself that's the privilege you get for making something and if I wanted to do something different I could go right ahead and start my own bike company. Usually about then I STFU and move on. ;-)

Having met the GG owners/team they are nice folks who are doing exactly what they want to do. Would I care if their branding/logos were all based on the tallest peaks in CO instead of rock and roll? Nope. I didn't buy my Smash because of the Devil's Horn logo or The Clash reference. But, it does make me smile when I think about how silly it is and I also chuckle when someone reacts like Hepcat. At the end of the day GG keeps expanding its production capacity and they keep selling every bike they make as fast as they make them so they are doing something right.

That's basically how I felt about the old Cotic badge you brought up, above:  it was their choice, and I can lament it and think they could have increased their appeal with a change. But that's their choice.

The old badge was an eyesore to me and it was one strike against it in the aesthetics column of my buying spreadsheet. I was happy when they changed it. But I'm sure someone (maybe Cy) loved the old one. And if it represented something authentic to the makers and not just an attempt to appeal to the broadest audience, well small brands can do that and afford to offend some people.

On headtube badges, I have to say that BTR's utilitarian choice is a favorite of mine. It's fitting that it is a bit industrial, and I don't know anyone else doing the same thing.

Posted by: Kenny

Posted by: Ride.DMC

Posted by: DanL

Chromag rifts have become my knee food of choice.

Same. I put them on at the house and take them off at the house - even when I have to drive 45 minutes to the trails. They're super comfortable and don't move around.

I've crashed in mine twice and they've pulled down and messed up my knees both times. Time for something else.

Thinking about leatt airflex.

I've been using a pair of Airflex for a couple years now. They are pretty comfortable, though they do slip down a little over lots of pedalling especially when it's hot and sweaty. It isn't enough to be a problem for me, I just pull them up sometimes.

I've not had a major crash with them on  but have taken some spills and my knees have been pretty well protected. They haven't pulled out of place, but the side protection is minimal so I've still gotten some small bruises around the knee.

My biggest complaint about them is the mesh they use on the sides gets torn pretty easily (pedal pins are the biggest culprit). I'll probably end up binning them because the mesh falls totally apart before they wear out otherwise.

Posted by: Bull_Dozer

Posted by: Timer

These usually are models which Measuring sitbones is helpful to get the correct width.

https://www.sq-lab.com/out/pictures/ddmedia/SQlab_Sittingposition.PDF

Not sure if +2cm or +3cm is more appropriate. Says +2 for "most mountain bikers" but +3 for enduro. Is "enduro" referring to [the type of mountain biking we do around here] or is that referring to something different?

My understanding when I looked at this was that +3 was more appropriate for steep seat tubes and upright seated position, where +2 was closer to an XC riding position.

I was deciding between these sizes (which for me meant either 13 or 14) and ended up with a 14cm Ergowave 611, which I find very comfortable, though I'm curious what the narrower would be like.

Posted by: AndrewMajor

Posted by: silverbansheebike

Oops, i thought he meant it was wrong for having them on the drive side. Yeah, im with you, id always put them to the rear to keep them from being hit

Yeah, that’s what I was saying… it’s wrong to have them on the drive side despite what some suspension fork manufacturers would have you believe.

I mean, if you care about that sort of stuff.

I missed the context for this. Care to fill it in?

When I had QR with rim brakes I always ran the levers on the non drive side. With discs I ran them drive side front so as to avoid hitting the rotors with my hand when opening/closing. But still non drive side rear so as not to interfere with the derailleur area. Is there a physical reason to avoid this? Or is it an aesthetic thing?

I just noticed mine was gone a couple days ago. I figured "oh, that's weird, that trim piece fell off" and didn't realize it had an integral purpose. Now I'm going to have to replace it before I need to change something and get a nasty surprise . . .

New frame build has finished! It was booked for shipping this Monday and is now on its way somewhere between Yorkshire UK and Washington state.

Rå bikes .410 size medium with an extra short seat tube. There are some neat little touches on this frame I'm excited for, including "410" cut out of the plate steel seatstay brace and a really compact yoke to get the shortest chainstays I've seen on a 29er.