nouseforaname profile

You really seem like you have an axe to grind. In 2006 a similar issue affected Specialzed Enduros and SX trails - very popular bikes in NV - so many broken chainstays. There wasn't a recall then. If it can be an issue for one of the three biggest companies in the world i don't see how it is fair to call out GG for falling victim to the same situation?

No, but you seem to have some information to share?

Fair question - part of it comes from going faster, a bit from riding more and probably a good chunk comes from riding more aggressively. And that's not the way everyone rides for sure.

I'm running Bontrager Line Elite wheels - they came with my bike. They're good wheels, but i've severely dented one rim to heck and dented a second despite upping my air pressure.

I now need a second rim and wheel build.

If i'd bought the wheels new, they are $800. Decent value, alloy wheels. There are cheaper, and there are more expensive. 

Mid way through last season a new rim is $100 and spokes and build is another $100. So after a season I'm at $1000 for my wheels, Now coming into a second season I'm needing to drop another $200 taking me to $1200 just to get to the start line this year. Assuming on going trends, but the time my wheels are reaching the end of this season, I'll be once again shopping for a new rim and rebuild. 18 months in and my $800 wheels will have cost me $600 to keep running. 

I'm glad I don't have to lay out $800 on alloy wheels, but if I was in that market I'd be having a hard time NOT buying carbon (with the right warranty). Hubs - meh - as long as they are cartridge and rebuildable who cares.

If your trails are flowy loamers then alloy wheels make sense. On the shore and surrounding areas IMO it's penny wise, pound foolish to buy alloy wheels as a better value. Until there's a new wheel size/axle spacing/axle diameter.

Well, alloy rims at WR1 weights will be pretty dent prone or pretty flexy. Carbon offers the promise (only) of light weight, dent resistance and good stiffness. 

If you have to compromise grip (tire pressure) to avoid rim dents, then the alloy rim isn't superior. If you have to accept writing off 1-2 rims (plus associated costs) every season, then the alloy rim isn't superior.

Stans new rims are $115 USD (! $160 CAD?) -one or two of those a year plus wheelbuild costs plus the initial outlay for wheels and it won't take long before a set of no fault replacement carbon wheels is looking like the good budget choice.

I'd rather not have to rely on any Cannondale dealer for parts or tools.  What's the axle size? Do they require a specific FSA only BB or do they work with DUB/GXP/24mm?

The Geometron Illuminati are obviously trying to suppress this heresy that suggests that Chris Porter is not the second coming of the Geometry Messiah.

@cyclotoine - I'd generally agree with a lot of what you've posted. But if any of us is well placed to decide how they like their bikes it would be Cam - given that he's probably had more time on more modern bikes that pretty much everyone. And then gets to take home the size he likes for a few months. He's not exactly a slouch on a bike, and has some decent riding in his backyard to base opinions around.

^^ This - who bothered to read the study? I didn't; but I'd ASSume that it was related to road cycling - as that's far easier to measure and probably related more to people coming to an abrupt stop (into a car?) than the kinds of slips and spills that we do as MTBrs.

ROAM JERSEY SIZING (IN INCHES)

Measure your body measurements, then choose your jersey size.

SIZE XS S M L XL

CHEST 38.5 40 40.5 44.5 47

LENGTH 27 27.5 28.25 30 31.5

SLEEVE 8.25 8.5 8.75 9.75 10 

Sizing on the Chromag website, along with how to apply tape measure.

Ride on gravel if that - concentrate on fitness - to echo what was said above. Do some stairs - great for cycling fitness.

Posted by: tungsten

They also kill it with info in their tech sheets.

So what's the bottom bracket height work out to be with a -15mm drop and the averge size 2.35/27.5 tyre?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/1/d/e/2PACX-1vQAr3WjETJHj8w9PnUO4bawj1mfzrIUfpnhdyFpXP4qjauXSQ0JQLkRvvNWOf-AuxTtW2PPspScuaLn/pubhtml#

Document references a 710mm wheel dia with a max tire size of27.5*2.4. 710/2 = 355mm radius - 15mm = bb height 340mm give or take a little (depending on tires).

Edit - but you can have up to 30mm bb drop using the mutator chips.

Posted by: syncro

Posted by: earleb

Was it a competition for the worlds most boring looking cranks? Clear winner.

high quality + great performance + high durability + decent price = who fucking cares about looks

He's just disappointed they don't come in orange to match his rusty bikes.

Posted by: bingobus

The coast road along from West Van to Horseshoe Bay is a really nice ride but not as quiet as you might hope for a windy ride, I liked the road from the base of Seymour out to Indian Arm though that ones fairly short but more Zen. My old stomping grounds were the Lothians and Borders so maybe just spoiled, maybe see half a dozen cars on a 3 hour ride once you're out the city! Definitely worth bringing a bike for transport as it's really well set up for bike roaming/commuting around here. Bike theft is high here though so you may want to pick up a junker too for getting around (pub). You can also take your bike on the bus to most of the mountains, depending on where you end up this can be a good option.

I'm not a big road cyclist, but i think it's worth pointing out that the maps don't tell the whole story.

Canadian roads are wider in almost every instance than roads in the UK. And drivers are (generally) much more respectful.

Looks like they have changed the profile of the teeth to be more like the original narrow wide rings. Much less squared off and blocky. interesting.

Looking at the link - why couldn't you just do 4 spoke length calculations? 2 for drive side (inner spokes and outer spokes with the same PCD, one's going to have a little more offset from the hub centre). And repeat for the NDS?

It's more complex, but that's the price you pay for Aliexpress.

This thread is almost as depressing as the "ebikes on the shore" thread.

Posted by: craw

Probably easier to not try and predict what sort of gear you'll need r.e. tires or whatever. Just get here, find some friends/Trailforks and start riding and you'll figure it out soon enough. There are so many amazing bike shops in Vancouver which have all the beta you need.

I built my dream bike before moving over here in 2005, sold it within 2 months.

More shops than ever have demo fleets now and that's priceless - good trails and good demo options to figure out what is right for you. There's nowhere quite like here.

Posted by: tashi

Ha! Are Freudian typos a thing? Def. should have been "wide-rage". I'm fully woke about the existence of fast ladies, don't worry.

Also: $150 for an 11-sp cassette is reasonable. I'll still choose 10-speed (SunRace cogs/XT derailleur/XTR shifter) for as long as possible; I'm actually considering the 9-speed MicroSHIFT for my hardtail. I miss thicker chains and cogs. My dream group would be 9 or 10-speed wireless Shimano electronic shifting that self-adjusts, can take a hit, and has reasonably priced wear items. SLXi2? Also a wireless dropper post with a 4-position lever that corresponds to different heights. Hydraulic seems good for brakes.

Edit: fuck internal cable routing.  Give me guides for full-length housing.

nOW IT'S WIDE-RAGE? yOU GOT SOMETHING AGAINST CHUNKIES?

Posted by: grambo

I am dumb and can't get my head around how steeper STA requires longer reach for descending (standing). I get the steep STA = more reach required for seated climbing, makes total sense. My current bike is 460 reach, 74ish STA (offset bushings and overforked) with a 35mm stem. Say I bought a new bike with the same HTA but a steeper STA around 76-77 degrees and it had 480 reach. Isn't it going to just feel 20mm longer when I am standing? If I am happy descending with my 460 and 35mm stem, why would steeper STA require more reach for me other than the climbing argument?

It wouldn't; as you said. It would mostly affect your seated climbing position. Reach is from the BB forwards. 

All the DH/park bikes that are never pedaled, could have 90deg SA and the reach wherever was comfortable.