nouseforaname profile

Thanks for the insight. Super DH sits at the top of the pile compared to the Giro which seems even bulkier. I wonder if MEC will have some of these?

$350USD makes this a pricey helmet for Canadians. I thought the Super DH was pricey already. Chain Reaction has this at $540CAD - $140 more than the street price of a Super DH.

Worth the extra cash in your opinion Cam? Have you worn a Super DH as a comparison?

I agree with you here AJ - my G16 was amazing and changed how I view the trail, but in 29r guise it was far from perfect. HA around 60deg with two offset bushes to get the BB under control made it nimble like a super tanker loaded with crude.

*tacks #thatguy #mypleasure

Trek say no to inserts in carbon wheels FWIW. Of any kind. They don't even want to hear that you've used HN.

Maybe an article in this?

I must be thinking of a different trail.

That trail (all but the last photo) is actually in Squamish. Comes off Angry Midget. I'm surprised to see it featured so prominently.

Well today i learned that Saffers call chainstay protectors 'slap socks' @timmigrant can you verify please?

Meh. Cheap bikes should have cheap tires. 

If you're buying a bike at pretty much any price (but certainly at a price where 'tires matter') and the shop won't work with you on a deal to install your choice of tires at the point of purchase - you're shopping at the wrong store.

Hey Tim - are you running cushcore in full on DH casing tires, or did you step back and run lighter sidewall versions? Do you run DH casing tires on your Range?

Posted by: craw

Behold. 63' head. 78' seat. 445mm rear. 1330 wheelbase. 180 cranks w/ oval ring. 200mm Saints which barely clear the seatstays. Amazing so far.

That is so beautiful.

Back in the day folks used to get upset that they're 150mm fork maybe only had 147mm of stanchion showing and Fox had an infographic somewhere that stated that something like 6mm of 'travel' could be taken up by the negative spring.

I find my Yari uses more of it's travel than my Fox 36 Grip used to, more often.  Different forks will use their travel differently even with the same air pressure and # of tokens. If one is on a bike with higher bars/slacker HA it might use it's travel less as more weight is over the front wheel. Doesn't even need to be the fork itself. My riding buddy could never get full travel out of his 36 because his rear shock was too soft and at the same time he was a cautious rider so his weight was always off the back.

Posted by: UFO

Posted by: nouseforaname

Great for beginners and folks looking to build a little confidence.

5 years and it will be relegated to weird niche bikes. Tops.

Pretty bold statements, I beg to differ.

Plus tires get squirmy because their sidewalls are typically thinner to keep the tire in a reasonable weight. If we accepted a 1200g + tire it would be fine. There IS a narrower sweet spot in terms of absolute air pressure in PSI, but in overall air volume its not a big deal in real life.

I'm currently running a Nobby Nic 2.8 in the rear on a i38 rim at between 14-15psi, but the Schwalbe 2.8s I find are succeptible to sidewall cuts because they are so thin. Love the gobs of traction and bit of give on my hardtail, and I don't push the rear end enough to notice tire squirm. I much prefer a normal tire up front because that is where I find there isn't enough feedback/precision in steering with +

If wishes were horses, beggars would ride.

Hardtails are weird niche bikes already so plus tires are the right choice for the rear at least. You're going slower than an FS bike so less loading on the tire during cornering?

Squirmy is because mid fat is a bag idea for experienced/aggressive riders. Great for beginners and folks looking to build a little confidence.

There's a very small window of air pressure where the tire doesn't flop about on the rim, but still has enough compliance to get a benefit from lugging the big carcass around.

5 years and it will be relegated to weird niche bikes. Tops.

Posted by: NickB

Haven’t tried the rim strips, but the plugs that come with Roval wheels are genius. They’re plastic with rubber seals and you pop one in each spoke hole. 

They never lift up when you change a tyre and they save about 50 grams a wheel. Not sure why the rest of the industry hasn’t done us a favor and stolen this idea.

Velocity Rims used to sell these - VeloPlugs i think.

That was one of the options offered to my wife, but the surgeon said that if there was an underlying weakness there was zero guarantee that it wouldn't herniate again at any time. She opted to go for a double disc replacement - hers was pretty severe so that may not be on the table for your wife.

Surgeon reckoned on a 4 week recover time with limited movement IIRC - no bending twisting lifting etc.

Good luck!

Mavic (and others) used the top type to convert their wheels for years with no issues.

I don't see an issue with them either way.

Posted by: Xorrox

I have been able to find zero reviews or write ups of people's personal experiences with the MRP Bartlett dual crown "enduro / freeride' fork anywhere on the internet. Is there anyone here who is running one of these and can say what they think about it?

Also, what is involved in mounting these in a normal head tube designed for a standard single crown fork with a tapered steerer? What type of headset would I need?

As per this thread (https://nsmb.com/forum/forum/gear-4/topic/any-options-to-stiffen-the-steerer-tube-on-a-fox-36-fork-131197/) , I'm currently running a 2019 Fox 36 Grip2 29er fork at 170mm travel on my bike and really love the damper and air spring but don't love the amount of flex I get, especially over rough terrain at high speed or when using the front brake on steep downhill sections. (I am a heavy guy and I love to plow through stuff so I'm definitely a fork designers worst nightmare).  The Bartlett seems to be a good option to correct this but it's a LOT of cash to put down on a new fork without any independent information or reviews.

Headset - probably just a reducing crown race for your existing headset. If not - check out FSA - they'll have a headset that is for a tapered (44/56 or whatever) frame that uses a reducing crown race.

I don't think that reduced offset is as big a deal as it is made out to be.

Posted by: grambo

Updating this... finally fixed it, my (stupid ass) mistake was trying to tape washers onto the rack and then insert it into the hitch... installed the rack in hitch then jammed a large washer into the gap (while pressing down on rack to make gap as large as possible) and then taped in place.

Oh yeah and didn't realize the torque specs of the locking pin and bolts were as high as they are so I use some decent box wrenches to crank those suckers down.

Only a small amount of play from the lower mast pivot now, I think that will always be there because the sliding pin you use to choose which of the 3 layback positions the rack is in is it not super tight tolerance so there's some wiggle room... no biggie though, it's night and day improvement from my video in this thread.

I never folded my NSR so I replaced that blind pin with a big bolt which reduced some noise.

Posted by: syncro

Posted by: nouseforaname

I've logged 600+KM on dirt on a 2019 Chromag Primer 29r since April 15 - squamish, loamers, whistler, epic ish rides. I know how good the new progressive HTs are.

But..... Coming 'back into the sport' why beat yourself up? Sorry if i hurt anyones feelings with the hardtails are for poors comments. It's still true though. 95% of folks who have a hardtail that they ride around here, do so with a FS bike in their quiver also.

Hardtails are fun, but hardtails make things harder. Why would you want that as a novice, or returning rider? That's just backwards. Unless it's for budgetary reasons - which is the best reason to ride a hardtail (other than also possessing a desire to be whipped and spanked in your off bike time. In that case only riding a hardtail makes perfect sense.) 

If it's because you enjoy making things harder for yourself OP - buy a hardtail. Flaunt your masochistic tendency every chance you get - don't ever let anyone know how much more awkward a hardtail has made things; just act like it's the most normal thing in the world. Read some (all) of Andrew Majors posts (even though even he has a FS bike). Embrace the life.

Or - buy a second hand full suspension bike - (re)grow your skills faster and rock the trails.

Isn't it a bit self righteous to be assuming to know why someone might want a hardtail and what another rider considers to be fun?

I also tend to highly disagree that one will "(re)grow your skills faster" on a fs bike than a hardtail. just because they might be riding faster sooner with a fs bike doesn't mean their skills are progressing faster than on a hardtail.

Well I'm a self righteous asshole a bunch in real life too.