nouseforaname profile

He got a job where he couldn't just crap on everything because now his opinions carried the weight of his employer...  AFAIK....

Is it bad that I could imagine many of those quotes as PVD Facebook posts?

I wonder if the flying Ancilottis are related to the bike makers of the same name?

Do we really need any more dropper post reviews at this point? Note to manufacturers - if you're not making one by this point - don't bother. Put that effort into something new that isn't one more drop into a fully saturated market.

Comment I've seen suggested that the scoring for the rest of the riders was muted to keep Brendan in the top ten so a guaranteed return for next year..

Perhaps he would have scored higher if he had gone later, but nonetheless that run was awesome.

$700 - (I see them around $700 USD) seems on the cheap side for that, but even then - I wreck 1-2 rims per year @ $100 per plus the build. Not going to take a long time for me to have covered the cost of the WR1 wheels.

It's the attitude of WR1 that is the game changer - North American (cause i'd be interested to see a comparable US made product) made AND willing to stand behind the product. Two things that aren't available at that price point from anyone else.

There's well priced (not cheap!) wheels, and there's NA made wheels and there's wheels with back up, but no one else  has got all three. I wonder why? Let's face it, a small start up in Kamloops shouldn't be this far ahead of the competition.

WR1/DT350 = $1597 CAD

SCB/DT350 = $1599 USD.

I know where my money would go.

The best system for MTB is Greaseguard, but we're all too lazy.

Google > SRAM exploded diagrams > enter PN into Google. Hey presto. 

Many of the small parts exist but are not carried by the (by global standards) small Canadian distributors. SRAM won't ship to Canada, so when your bike shop finds the PN and calls SRAM to get it they will be told tough luck.

Posted by: syncro

Posted by: nouseforaname

Hey, It's 'free' performance. Free-er than having to go to a gym and lose that same 1/4Lb.

The cranks I posted came with a bb, so add another $30 or so for the 100g lighter xt option which are already $20-30 more. Is saving 100g for an extra $60 worth it in the case of cranks?

:shrugs: Not for me. My cranks were $50 off the PB buynsell for a frame that set me back $3000 used. But if i had the cash to lay out, sure it'd be worth it. It was "worth" about $1 a gram back in the weight weenie dh bike days.

Posted by: Endur-Bro

Cranks are a pretty fucking stupid area to attempt saving weight in.

I think there's a line. And not every rider requires Profile 3 pc BMX cranks. Why not optimise your parts based on your own requirements? It's not like he's asking if anyone runs Tune cranks for hucking duties.

Posted by: syncro

Posted by: heathen

715g way too heavy.

100g more than say an XT is "way too heavy"?

Hey, It's 'free' performance. Free-er than having to go to a gym and lose that same 1/4Lb.

Does anyone know of an LBS stocking the ESI silicone grips? NV or east of Boundary?

Posted by: Endur-Bro

MOJO recommended I go FLOAT X2 instead of X2... I'm running a Longer @175mm rear. Have a 170mm cartridge I need to drop into the 44mm 36 GRIP2 soon. Also this spring I'll likely order a set of Hope cranks. Tired of dealing with the Canfield Bros SRAM interface.

The bike is a beast. I often wonder if I should've went 155mm rear. 🤷🏼‍♀️

Are you adding offset bushings to compensate for the 29ers? 

I guess coming from a Pole the geo won't seem like such an huge change.  For myself it is/was an eye opener.  Like my Chromag feels comically short/small now, I'm not opening that Naked can of worms; yet.  No idea how the V10C feels; but I bet similar.

My G16 BB is at 355 with 29 wheels. Definitely need some offset bushings IMO. Fortunately with a broken thumb, I've got time to get them. 

Seems like 2019 is going to be the summer of Geometron on the shore.

Geometron > Pole.

Did you buy the Mojo version or the Nicolai version Craw?

Pop the pads out, pull the lever a few times to push the pistons out (careful now). Lube the pistons with some DOT fluid on a q tip and work them back in. Rebleed the brake and see if that has improved things. It could be that one of the sets of pistons is not retracting properly and that's the brake that has the short throw.

Do the brakes feel the same with the bleed block in - or is it just with the pads and rotor in place?

Posted by: HobNob

That got built up, raced a couple of DH races & EWS’s 

Casually drops that in there like....

Interesting bike HobNob - I wonder how it will hold up.

Posted by: tungsten

Thanks for the link, allows me to post image of iteration I'd buy.

So, as someone who drank the Horst/Maestro/DW/splitpivot koolaid, it's that link between the rocker and rear tri that isolates the brake-jack amiright?

Pretty sure that's a no.

The link between the rocker allows them to tune the shock stroke independent of the rear wheel. Like Knollys but with brake activation of the suspension ('brake-jack').

Thanks all for the advice!