nouseforaname profile

Should play side to side with his NSX work.

Apparently, yes.

I smash (ish) trails without inserts. And used to go through a rim and a half a year. After rebuilding my latest rear wheel, I was wincing every time I was ripping through some chunder. That wincing has disappeared now I have some wheels that get refreshed for free if I do something stupid.

I don't want my wheels to be heavier - inserts - just so I can run the tire pressure I want without worrying about blammo-ing my rim into a rock. I've tried riding more sensibly and that didn't work either. Maybe I'll try the new Tannus inserts as they don't seem too hefty, and they're on the shelf locally, but that is low down on the list now that I don't have to worry about dents.

Is this the same Tim Coleman that once revelled in wearing short socks instead of cool kid long dh bro socks? Asking for a friend.

Is this going to be ANOTHER Slayer that the RM team don't race on? New RM Enduro team bike being teased on PB. Who is designing the Slayer that none of the team riders feel it's what they need?

Yeah, he'd have to mount it to a fixed gear bike with only 1 brake to have minned enough to put this fork on a bike and claim it was min-maxed.

Tell the tall guy to go away, and not come back unless he has bought a Geometron?

Re: Comment about how tough it is to get out of the steer tube. I have resorted to sliding my glove through the little loop to get some force on it to pull it out. Can't do it with fingers. It's been in and out a half dozen times so far - twice on the trail. My bike has the SRAM UDH (8mm), which means that this tool, along with a CO2 and tube/lever stored in the DT and a spare hanger strapped to my seat rails has me covered for most likely on trail mishaps. Feels very liberating to go without ANY pack on the trail, but I've never been a kitchen sink kind of guy - in fact I've certainly carried LESS than this, even with a Camebak on!

Garmin on the TT, and now I don't carry my phone. I need to remedy that, as solo rides are a lot less comfortable without some way to call home, even if home knows which trails I'll be riding.

@Luix I know about the Monroe doctrine - learned about it mostly from the other side - of the spheres of influence ideas that disrupted European powers in the regions. So from the colonial powers perspective. The question was: what did the rest of the world call the colonists in the place that became the United States between the 1600s and the 1820s? My research suggests that they were called Americans. And not out of some claim over the whole continent, as you suggested. Have you got any suggestions of where I can find what United Statesians were called pre Monroe? 

@Brigham - if you can see a logical end/future point - that you will disagree with - to a line of action, you should resist the line of action as soon as you realise that.

What were 'Americans' called before Monroe?

Posted by: Kenny

Was too good to be true. 

The upper cup doesn't fit in my head tube. Several mm too large in diameter. 

I guess it might fit in the aluminum version of the frame. Kinda makes me wonder if it fits any carbon santa Cruz frames...

If it's the right cup, it should fit - diameter makes me think they sent you the wrong cup.

Posted by: D_C_

The less rear travel you have, the less steep your static (unsagged) seat angle needs to be. As rear suspension sags and bobs under pedalling, the seat angle becomes slacker.

My Chromag Rootdown has a 76 degree seat angle and I actually find the need to slide the seat back on its rails to not feel uncomfortably perched forward on all but the steepest climbs. In contrast, a 76+ degree seat angle on an enduro bike feels pretty normal since it might sag to something like 73 degrees under weight and pedalling.

This. Dynamic geo makes more of a difference than just looking at static geo numbers.

There was a comment on one of the reviews (Scalpel?) about it's bb height being higher than the Supercaliber by 11mm, so it felt 'less planted when cornering' or something. The Scalpel has 100mm of travel, and the Supercal has 60mm. So where is the BB on the Scalpel when you sit on it compared to the Supercal? And then where is it as soon as you start using travel? And then where does it end up when you're at 80% of travel Vs 80% of travel on the Supercal?

Do the math and you see that static geo comparisons can be completely meaningless. Especially from Pinkbike.

XC bikes are designed to be raced/ridden from the saddle, Vs Enduro bikes which are designed to be raced/ridden from a standing position. The weighting of the bike is completely different in those two different use/design cases. Until there's a round of the XCWC where you can make up 2 minutes a lap (over a top ten rider) on the descent, that's how XC bikes will stay.

Now DC/BCXC/marathon bikes might get more interesting - those are bikes/races that CAN make a 2 minute gap on a descent. I imagine at the end of a long day in the Cape Epic for example.

Posted by: Vikb

Where the threads are is pretty deep inside the head tube area. Not a part of my bike that gets dirty.

Yup, and not an area you'd have to worry about washing good grease out of.

Drop in (IS) bearings are one of my most disliked things about bikes currently.

Posted by: RAHrider

I'm in awe of your 50x17. That would be a grind up many of the hills in my area. I thought it must have been a typo. Good on you.

King cage stainless steel ended up being my choice. Their ti cages have been amazing for me and I like the simple styling.

Agree, that's nuts. I rode 46/16 as an all round FG ratio. OP, on my gravel bike I'm at 40 up front and most often find that i'm around 15 or 17 for general use - down towards the 11/13 when I'm hustling though. I live out towards PoCo so rides are flattish gravel.

(40x28)/15 = 74.66

(40x28)/17 = 65.88

(36x28)/16 = 63 - unless you're into big climbs or rolling along slowly, IMO this is too low.

(36x28)/15 = 67.2 < more reasonable, but probably still too low for where I live as an only gear, I find I'm regularly bumping off the limits of 40x11. Yes, if I span at 110rpm i wouldn't be, but I don't.

Perhaps take your average speed and work backwards from there if you're still on the fence. What gearing and RPM will it take to be able to do your average speed comfortably.

Edit - i see you decided already. Good luck and have fun!

Super easy. Remember to drill on a angle. Measure three of four times and drill once.

A grommet is a nice touch, but I never bothered on any of the three frames i did it to.

I'm with TD too and echo the 6k limit as that's what I recall from my policy. Never had to claim.

Orangesportsupply is the distro for Sapim, and they are local to NV. Any bike shop should be able to get you sorted next day if they want your business.

One up, why pay more?

Posted by: andy-eunson

He’s a bit much at times but he makes you think. I wonder if some of the threaded bb bikes I’ve had where I’ve needed a new bb annually was just out of spec? I had a Kona Hei Hei years ago where the brake studs were too low and I couldn’t really set the brake pads correctly. Built by Sandvik to the wrong spec. I had to buy rims that sloped in to the tire to get the pads to track ok. The replacement was marginally better. I learned later from a friend at Norco about the wrong brake stud spec. So you wonder about manufacturers which are often contractors eliminating steps to make better profits.

Every 'standard' has a tolerance. QC is only as good as the effort put into it.

Posted by: D_C_

Posted by: thaaad

I don't use strava plainly because I am way too competitive and I will either end up hurting myself or hating myself.

Once you accept how inaccurate it is, the race aspect of Strava goes out the window.

Yeah, but now I can't check my previous performance. I have dozens of rides on some trails. And it's MY performance that I'm most interested in. But I don't care about heart rate monitors or power meter hook ups or training days.