Jesus that's heart wrenching. Read the CBC article too.
By opening his heart and sharing the brutally honest facts though, he's likely saving someone from the same fate.
Ordered an SQlab 60x, extra softness for tender bottoms.
Went for a ride with the SQlab dealer and he brought his sizing kit. Sit bones measured a horse butt width 130mm, per sizing directions ordered a 150mm saddle.
Perhaps worth noting: Seems SQlab sizing may be a bit different than WTB. My size 142 WTB Volt measured 142mm at the widest point, while the size 13cm SQlab 611 measured 142mm at the widest point.
Anyone still running an SQlab (Craw?) or Ergon? My current 142mm Volt is becoming a pain in the sit bones and I'm on the lookout for something squishier for my non chamoised buttocks.
Also, on the website of one of these saddles, it says for upright MTB riding to add 2cm to your sit bone measurement to find your correct size. Sound legit?
Posted by: xy9ine
...for most people, the benefit over a carefully curated & well maintained (modern) used bike is minimal. certainly not worth trading off going into debt or curtailing adventures. and "contemporizing" used bikes is kinda fun. upsize, add offset bushings or headset, freshen up a few bits, etc. lots of potential out there for relative bargains.
And upgrading older bikes with obselete standards can be dirt cheap. Last year I bought a top of the line non-boost Lyrik for pocket lint.
New bikes being significantly better is pure marketing hyperbole imo.
Granted, the difference between 27.5 and 29 is drastic, (in both good and bad ways).
The difference with metric shocks, GXP BB's, boost axles, etc etc? Imperceptible.
I'm a habitual bike demo'er, I've still never ridden anything as fast as my embarrassingly outdated 2016 Reign.
Specifically do 29" tires take lower psi than 27.5" for equivalent feel?
23psi, 26psi I have determined as my perfect psi on the 27.5 all-mountain bike for fast-ish enduro-y riding. (190lb rider, E13 front, DD Schwalbe rear).
New to the 29er game and haven't pinned down 29" pressures yet. Does one typically go down in pressure for 29 vs 27.5 as they are larger volume?
Sorta feeling like 21, 24 feels right on my gingerly ridden short travel 29er with Maxxis EXO tires, but man that seems low...
WW2 in color is like a good page turner, it will kill 10 hours before you know it.
Game Changers was slick and entertaining.
Deathgrip. Brendan Fairclough is always worth putting the coffee down and sitting up straight for.
Formula One. Drive to Survive.
Moonlight. Oscar for best picture
Ronny Chieng: Asian Comedian Destroys America! We lol'd.
Then there's the rabbit hole of complete series downloads. Lots of good old stuff to mine and some good new content too: Our Planet. Breaking Bad, Better Call Saul & El Camino. The Office. Stranger Things. Black Mirror. The Good Place. Madmen. Cooked. Rotten.
Disney+ if you can get it:
Mandolorian. So fun. Cheesy space action like Buck Rogers or Battlestar Galactica from the 80's, except not terrible to watch as an adult
Yeah, after doing it a couple of times I'd say it's just the pulling that's doing any good. Have to pull hard on the syringe to create enough suction to get bubbles. Pushing seems a bit pointless? Popped the syringe out a couple of times that way.
Pulling the syringe up above the hole as the last step allowing fluid to drain into the brake seems like a better substitute than trying to push fluid in under pressure.
This whole thread belongs in First World Problems. Shops in Van have got to be the best in the world. Every shop on the North Shore has knocked my socks off with their wizardry at one point or another.
Try living outside of a major riding area, where no one knows how to service suspension or disc brakes, let alone stocking parts from this millennium...
Suck it up dandelions!
Whining about Vancouver, by many measures the best city in the world, is a favorite local pastime. 😅
"Ooh my ride was too cold, it was like 5°!" While everywhere else is a million below zero and buried in a mile of snow...
Tried the "Schnelles Befuellen" method from Magura vid above, worked well. Did front brake with the regular push-pull fluid method only, rear brake added the Schnelles step. Rear was noticeably more solid. Not Shimano rock solid, but probably SRAM solid.
This method worked well for pulling air out, even after a good bleed I got a couple more small bubbles. Trouble is syringe is just balanced there so it can't handle much pressure and you need to carefully hold it in place. Awkward method in general, but only a 5 minute investment of time for noticeable improvement.
Bit of a disappointment that after all these years this is where disc brake bleeding technology is at. SRAM bleeding edge is great, but DOT is devil juice. Magura threaded caliper is great, but the master cylinder threads are marzipan.
Shimano, a new Saint with screw in bleed ports? Along with some premium (stainless?) quality syringes that can handle a strong vacuum?
I like it when Donald slurs and whispers random imaginary statistics. Fills me with patriotic confidence in U.S. leadership.
Anyone watch WW2 in color on Netflix? Just finished the series, so well done. The parallels between Trump and Hitler are striking.
Man you needs one of those Shimano funnels, that little cup is what makes one-way bleeding Shimano brakes a 5 minute job.
When doing this top bleed changing the angle of the master cylinder several times and then flicking the lever helps find more bubbles.
Using a syringe with a hole in the side, like in that German video in the Magura thread, is reportedly an even more effective method than this. I'll be testing it out shortly.
For a full bleed:
•Pull pads (always), remove wheel. Put in pad block.
•Attach syringe at bottom.
•Attach cup at top.
•Push a large amount of fluid up, then *pull a large amount of fluid back down*, slowly. Repeat several times.