You need a bike, I have one
Check your PM
That is good to know. I might try Norco first then
After spending $40 on a bleed kit. I broke one of the plastic clamps that closes the syringe. Local shops didnt think I can get that particular piece. I thought I would go straight to the source.
Thanks for the responses
Personally I hate wet feet
When I commute I use Taiga gortex overboots. They are relatively cheap $40??
When I am out on the trails I use gortex socks. They are the best. A little pricey $70-80 but worth every penny to me. Feet dry = warm feet
My .02 cents
Having owned both 60c and 60cx, I highly recommend the 60cx. The extra cost of the 60cx is worth it. The 60 cx has a faster and newer chipset enabling it to draw maps faster, has expandable memory and a more sensitive antennae. The latter is the key. If you are at all thinking about using a gps in the woods, go for the cx. Even under light cover in the trails, the 60c had very spotty reception. The other features are great as well. It is nice to have all your maps loaded into the GPS. You cannot do this with the 60c as memory is limited. The garmin gpsmap series is great. Waterproof, small and versitile. I use it for both hiking and car navigation. The extra cost of the csx may be worthwhile but that is personal preference. The 60cx does tell you your altitude(elevation) but may not be as accurate as the csx. The csx uses barometric pressure to determine elevation while the cx uses satellites and location to calculate elevation. I have not used both simultaneously to determine the CX accuracy in calculating elevation. I suspect it is not too far off. The 60c is a good unit but in a very short time, you will recognize its limitation.
The 60cx has a electronic compass as oppose to a magnetic compass of the CSX. The difference is that the CSX can tell you your heading when standing still while the cx needs to be moving (even if slowly) to tell you that information.
Hope that helps
I am thinking about getting into a IH Sunday but don't know about their sizing. Their website does not have standover measurement for their bikes. Being short 5'6, I often have problems with getting enough standover on many bikes out their. I don't need suggestions for other bikes just this one for now. Does anyone who is as short as me have any experience with the IH Sunday
I picked up my commuter in the Buy and sell. It is a circa 80s 18 speed cannodale road bike. I paid 120 for it. I threw on some mountain bike bars from Simons ($15), change the brake levers ($20) from cheapskates and 1980's style fenders ($15) from community bikes and was good to go. I have since replaced things as needed but it is a no maintainance bike. I ride about three days a week to work and on occassion I can leave it parked downtown for hours without problems, locked of course. The old cannodales have no stickers on the downtube but has the cannodale sticker on the top tube which I cover up. It rides like a dream but looks like crap.
A must have in any bike stable. The whipping boy of bikes!
Thanks for the suggestion but I would like people to know that I did do my homework and that I would still like to hear what spring rate people are running on their 4 bar suspension bikes as the website is not helpful in that way. Please include your weight
I thought I have read it over carefully (website). I don't recall that they posted suggested spring weights for their coil shocks. I wonder if it is because each bike has different leverage ratios.
I also don't recall that it addressed my question about how the shock would just settle into the spring and start to compress the spring no matter how far the preload washer is turn out
I will look again
Thanks for the replies. Purchased bike used so no manual.
I was thinking that it would be too much as well. It is hard measuring the sag on a coil shock on your own.
I am also having some difficulty understanding how to set the preload. I know that I really should not be more turning the preload washer(??) more than two turns after it seats on the spring. However, when I back out the spacer, the shock tends to slowly compress down to the spring because of the weight of the bike no matter how far I back the washer out. I hope this is not confusing people? I just don't get a sense of where 0 turns of the washer is.