ShawMac profile

I bought the counterpunch and had them on for one ride. Hooked tree bark within 5 minutes that my regular bar would have just bounced off. It made me notice that I don't ride with my pinkies right out of the end of the bar, so they were pointless for me personally. If I cut my bars down further and tightened up the space between the counterpunch and the inside of the grip it might work for my small hands, but I didn't really want to cut down some carbon bars that already feel right.
Definitely has more potential to hook when there is a space between the knuckle and counter punch, but it definitely did grab a tighter hold on tree bark rather than bumping off of it like my plain plastic bar end plugs do. At high speeds that would save a pinky though if you do have your hands all the way on the edge

Leatt lists SpokeHaven in Squamish as a dealer too. Haven't looked to see if they have any in stock.

The run flat potential is a selling feature after having to walk out once because I couldn't get my valve core out. Although maybe if it is just a slow "get home" roll maybe Tannus still has enough protection.

I thought the special valve with the side output was interesting. It surprises me that a piece of foam like that would actually press hard enough to "plug" a regular vertical valve? Maybe it is the release of air rather than inflating that would be the issue.

Hmm, I was going to try Tannus based on the NSMB review, but now I am re-thinking that! Did you get dinged with a tariff charge when they were shipped to you?

I was just looking and they aren't easy to find in North American either. It was a bit more common to find the F6900ZZ online (metal sealed)

Awesome Dan. This almost my exact experience with the Prime as well for riding in Squamish. Phantom wouldn't feel like enough, and the Titan was just too much bike for my level of confidence.

I have not had any bearing issues yet... I don't know if they are INA or Enduro, but when it comes time to replace I will look for the highest quality I can. I think I am going to check those trunnion bearings though... I did not notice any catches when I re-greased recently, but didn't really focus on it either.

I did not know that there was the template for the inner fender! The first thing I did for winter riding was cut out a clear cranberry juice container and sip tie it in there. The amount of mud that builds in the lower linkage is unacceptable without.

I do use the "climb switch" on the DPX2 for road climbs and use the middle setting for rougher trail climbs. It is tuned to be a really minimal compression change vs older true lock out modes so it isn't necessary. I have been a "sit and spin" climber for a long time; however contrary to Andrew, in the last few weeks I have seen a lot of success in getting up out of the saddle with a slower grind cadence for technical parts... maybe the Prime is a little more suited for it. 

I too have debated trying a mullet, and if I can find a reasonably priced rear wheel with an old HG driver I may just plunge in. Have also considered trying a coil but the 185x55 coilers are harder to come by (and I really don't know how much money I am willing to throw at a bike trying things lol).

Industry can't even really sort out proper sized adult cranks, so there is no surprise kids are an after thought.

I can customize handlebars for the lengths of my arms and width of my shoulders, but I generally have to choose between probably too long and way too long sizing for the item that goes round and round 10,000 times per ride.

The 150 reverb was so close, I am pretty sure the 160 One-up will fit no problem, but I might have to shim down the travel.

I am one of those suckers with 30" inseam. 

I was immensely disappointed when I got my new Prime V3. Banshee advertised shorter seat tube in order to fit a wider range of droppers, yet I ended up having to stick to 125mm. The old Prime ran 125mm external routed reverb slammed to the seat tube, the new bike needed a stealth dropper which further increases the insertion length,  so I was about 5mm short of being able to run 150mm post comfortably, so I am still stuck with 125mm post that I need to keep lifted about 2 cm. There wasn't a One-up post to be found during my build.

Eventually the One-up or PNW post will be on my upgrade list. If only to get rid of the stupid hydraulic actuator.

So I pulled the trigger on one of these yesterday and installed it in my fork last night. I got it done, but it was a challenge I did not expect. The fit tolerances of the carrier are very tight, so I don't know if the steer tube got slightly out of round while trimming last time or if a couple different installations of star nuts roughed up the inside, but I could not get that sucker to drop in like the installation videos show. I ended up having to go to town with a round file and emery cloth on the inside of the steer tube to get the carrier to fit down with a reasonable sized spacer. First go had me having to use pliers to get it back out in order to try and clean things up, damaging the sweet finish.

This was likely not due to quality of the EDC carrier. But at least if you are cutting threads, you know that the carrier is going to fit.

It's a tight fit now, but at least I can get the actual tool in and out without feeling like I was going to brake the lip.