cheapondirt profile

Moved the 13t or whatever the smallest "normal" cog is to behind the 46. Don't know what I was expecting, but shifting across the new gap is unremarkable and the chainline still has a lot of room for improvement. Obvious low hanging fruit would be to space the chainring in, but my frame's integrated chainguide prevents that.

Yes, that is really helpful. I didn't know about the different lockring and didn't consider the overhang. Still might have to try it out!

So the Banshee is back to 1x? Don't give it all away now, but 26x11 seems low.

Tangentially unrelated question. You said the word chainline...

Looking at how to improve chainline on my own bike. It's 32x11-46. Swapping the 11t (which I never use) to the inboard position as a spacer - is that a thing people do? Or would a smaller chainring be a good choice despite not needing a lower gear?

The double-black optional section on Afternoon Delight is my carrot right now. I've ridden it a couple times, once reasonably clean, but on a chicken line that bypasses the biggest rock. I have to ride it properly, on my own (trail) bike, before I'll be satisfied.

That's more of a project than a dream though. The dream line is arguably unattainable. Once it's been mastered won't another dream line quickly take its place?

Good tip, my bike has a little bit of a raw/polished aluminum theme going already and you just made it a lot easier for me to find matching parts!

I don't know if there's a difference between Maxima sc1 and any old silicone spray, but I used the latter today with good results. Probably cheaper and easier to find.

I have bought a few used parts in my time, thanks for the reminder to be smart about it.

I'm with you on that. The sooner we have enough light to start work, the more time we have with family in the evening (before, say, kids bedtime - or anything else that's tied to the clock instead of the sun).

Shimano's side pull FD design works well enough it would have been enough to keep me on 2x if frames still allowed it.

Shiftable n/w though?!  Take my money!

I did this procedure recently when I realized my brakes were nowhere near centered on the rotors. I tried to reset the pads, but the pistons on one side were stuck and the effect was to drag the whole caliper off center even when it was tightly bolted on. Odd, given some mechanical calipers only move on one side by design; now I'm second-guessing that diagnosis. Anyway, it worked. With clean pistons, the calipers are staying centered and lever feel improved a little.

That lines up with what I've heard about DW's being very durable. Paul Aston measured the 27x3.0 at 2.65 (casing) and 2.9 (tread) on a 40mm rim, so if the 26" version is similar it would indeed be bigger than the Maxxis. Mine are about 2.6 on both the casing and tread, though on an i32 rim.

Oh yes I did look at the Ranger but it hardly seems suitable for hard riding.  I said I wasn't aggressive, but that's in our freeride-enduro-BC context. I'm still going to be pushing harder through corners than your average bikepacker.

I guess it is what it is. I should probably just get one or two more DHRII+, keep carrying a tube, and be ready for a 27.5 wheel purchase some day soon. At least my frame is ready for that! It's kind of nice to hear I'm not the only weirdo disappointed by 26+ dying.

I'm considering stocking up a pile of the recently discontinued, still-on-a-couple-websites DHRII 26x2.8. Except one thing: I'm light and more cautious than aggressive, and these tires possess the only sidewall I've ever cut open.

In article comments, Andrew Major suggested the Dirt Wizard 26x3.0. It looks good, but it's also 380g heavier than the Minion+. Enough to second guess that idea (though I appreciated the suggestion). It's for the rear wheel of a mini mullet RM Altitude which I would like to keep playful.

Is that really all the big 26" tires?

I do know of the 2.6" Magic Mary but haven't really taken that thought seriously because it only comes in purple compound.