alan.kaye.3551 profile

Completely replacing your drivetrain to save weight would be expensive. Dropping to 10 or 11 speed means a new shifter, cassette, derailleur. NX is one from bottom (SX is the lowest) level of SRAM's 12 speed options, meaning it is almost the heaviest.

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/sram-nx-eagle-review/

Replacing the NX cassette with a GX or better starts dropping weight. If you have an NX drivetrain bike, you may have a heavy wheelset. You may also have an entry level fork, heavier fork. There are a lot of ways to drop weight, but they all cost money.

--Completely forgot that the NX is the HG driver, so scratch what I said.

I'm relatively new to mountain biking and full suspension bikes, but I love the tinkering aspect of the sport.  I'd be interested to know your thoughts on the Fox Performance Float EVOL shock that comes standard on something like the Trek Fuel EX 8 versus this new shock from Fox.

As a Kanata resident I can tell you it certainly is.  Excellent fat biking in the winter and summer rooty/rocky jank.

I went DP3 because I'm riding in the east and will use these 4 seasons.  Just layer up for colder weather.  I think the DP3s will be more versatile that way.

Same.  DP3 pants should be here this week.  Stoked!

Interesting point, but I think I do have bleed issues.  If I don't have the levers wound all the way out right now, the levers hit my knuckles when I brake hard.  I'm thinking with a proper bleed I should have a usable range of reach adjustment.

Thanks!

Could you explain your gravity bleed and piston cheat methods?  I just upgraded my brakes to the SLX 7120 and I don't think I have the bleed right.  There is too much free play in the pull even with the levers wound fully out. I have SLX 2 pistons on my hard tail and I'm looking for the same quick bite and firm feel.

Thanks!