flattire2 profile

Do you really want a frame that can only use ONE shock?

A well looked after bike can last 5-10 years.  Now that geometry and wheelsize are figured out, this frame could be relevant for ten years.  Will this one shock be supported years from now?

At 6'-2" you test a L or XL?

^Guess it comes down to the frame manufacturer and how much tire clearance they designed into their superboost frame.  On my knolly, tire clearance is massive and only superboost cranks fit.  A standard chainline cranks chainring will collide with the frame yoke.

Swappable dropouts would not work on a 157 frame. You must run a super boost specific 157 crank with a 58mm chainline. That would not be compatible with a 148 rear hub. Well, the chainline in your largest cogs would be borderline unrideable.

I'm building up a fugitive right now and have first hand experience trying to make my 148mm wheels and standard cranks work just on a temporary basis.

After owning a few $80 kit & ace shirts for several years, they are well worth the money.  Still look new and are go-to items in my closet.  Problem is men wont spend $80 on a tshirt.

Big squish bikes need steep seat angles to counter lots of rear sag (and fork extension under climbing)

A hardtail obviously, has no rear sag, so therefore a 74 ish SA is appropriate.

The failure of the bike industry to grasp simple geometry baffles me.

Unless your 4 wheeling, too many trucks and SUV's on the road.  Nothing like the driving feel of a good car.

I'll always remember when 1.5" headtubes came out (amongst the chorus of nsmb.com forum members decrying it).  In an era where 1-1/8" steertubes were snapping, headtubes ovalizing, and bottom headset bearings failing prematurely.  Nope - didn't need it!

my guess is just the body is aluminum.  Frame rails and driveline is probably steel.

Slide your saddle back, bingo more TT length  :O

Since your coming off old school shitty short geo anything new is going to feel unfamiliar and huge at first.   You have to get used to it, which doesn’t happen during a parking lot test ride.  Trust the manufacturer size recommendations, and size up or down slightly if your on the bubble.  Geo is king.

With all the variability in preferred brake lever positioning, thumb length, etc, I never thought the integrated brake/shifter mounting was worth it. Saves 15grams of parts but ultimately leaves someone unhappy with positioning options. I'll take separate discrete mounting clamps please, every time.

^ thanks man.  I flip flop back and forth between this and the 170mm enduro bike, it makes you appreciate what either excel in.    Its kinda fun to be on a hardtail again, climbs so well.  You realize what a slug the enduro bike is on the ups.

Ragley Big AL, size XL. 480 reach, 650 stack. 150mm fork, HA measures 64*. I'm 5'11" and the fit is great. I will never own a short reach bike again.

Riding it to 7-11 with my kids it does feel like a lumbering beast but as soon as it hits dirt, it all makes sense. Much more capable than the hardtails of yesteryear. Stable, forgiving, fast, and just fine to throw around. Not in tight radius berms tho.

The 74 SA is almost a deal breaker but with saddle all the way forward is just enough. 76 probably the sweet spot. Alu frame, 29.5 lb build with good rubber. Frame was $450 from CRC to my door :)

I question the dedication to steel frames. With big volume 29” tires (and inserts), proper geometry that get you more over the fork on the descents, I think I’d rather save the 2 pounds of weight an aluminum frames offers over steel. It won’t have the lifespan of steel for sure tho.

Go sunrace.

How the lineups in the park these days?  Thinking of heading up for the weekend but 45min waits at FITZ will be a deal breaker for me