lkubica profile

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002532143447.html

11-46 or 11-50 (there are 12s versions as well). Fits HG driver, full "steel" (or chineese steel, but after a season it holds strong), weight ~300g and shifts like a 11s Shimano. The only downiside is that it does not work with KMC chains (they are tighter and tolerances on the biggest cog are a bit off).

Running it on Meta AM 29 and managed to cut a bit of the plastic lever on the first day (you need to rotate it to make sure it will not collide with frame on compression). Anyway, I am running it on RS SuperDeluxe which begs for tuning (or replacement, still undecided). Sprindex is not perfect, after few weeks of using it I can find a white powder where the spring contact with the fiberglass spacer and it requires a lot of effort to turn it. But after a year of riding it still works the same (i.e. very well).

I love the depth of your tech articles. I think that most of us really ride bikes which are heavily under-tuned. Of course there are riders who do not care much and ride brilliantly. I respect and envy them, but most of us can see a dramatic improvement in speed and comfort by just sacrificing a few weeks for tuning.

BTW, have you considered Sprindex? It's simply brilliant, you can definitely feel even 10lb difference in spring force.

I think you have unintentionally touched a very interesting topic of how independent media can really be. Someone naive would think that media are there for consumers. Take those spy shots - they are good for me as a consumer, since I can hold a little and buy a possibly better bike. It is bad for a company, but I do not care really. But you, the bike media, unfortunately (for me) must care about companies, since they are you real customers, not us.

Hi, I wonder how hard is to reduce travel in this shock? I could find only 230x65 metric, but need 230x60. Btw, they are almost impossible to buy in Europe right now, which is a pity since they look like a great value.

I ride 5.10's with Horizon pedals and you only need to remove two pins near the spindle, just like Sam does. This makes it possible to reposition your foot and gives loads of fore-aft grip.

Your measurement makes more sense but is confusing to customers. You should at least provide two measurements. Those numbers are only useful to compare my current bike with yours. What you achieve is customers thinking that the pedaling position on your bikes is awkward. I bet you loose customers because of it or they buy frames one size too small. I owned a Knolly and only because I have found someone with the an M I discovered that need L actually.

Knolly measures ETT differently than other brands. They say it makes more sense, I say they should measure it like everyone else, because otherwise it is useless. They measure ETT for a seat extended to a "typical ride height", whatever this means.

Sorry, I could not resist - the most misaligned frame I had was a Knolly Chilcotin. It rode great but I just could not stand it mentally. This feeling that it will eventually destroy the damper and seeing the hardware and link threads more worn out every time I disassembled it. I have sold it eventually and the new owner rides it harder, keeps replacing broken bolts and it seems that the damper is actually showing some wear. But it rode brilliantly, I miss it all the time.