Shortyesquire profile

I was originally going to run another fork with the Switchblade but the Talas saves me having to muck around with the spacer. I might still run an angleset which uses an EC56 cup rather than a ZS56.

I'm going to find out soon. A gen 1 Pivot Switchblade (135mm) with a Fox 36 Talas set to 160mm in 27.5+ mode and 150mm in 29er mode 

Many of my bikes run 10-20mm over forked no problem. The only bike I've been hesitant to go too far on is my Pole evolink 150, which is already very slack and long. 

One thing I've noticed though is the need to correct the stack height on some of the bikes, e.g. I run a Syntace flatforce stem (-13mm stack) on my Focus Sam running a 180mm DVO Onyx sc.

You're bike reminds me of being a kid watching Aliens. Horrifying (won't somebody think of his knees!) yet genius at the same time.

My lungs, wrists, knees and ankles ache looking at that bike, but I love the story.

Did you ever consider getting a Ti bike for some extra compliance? 

How are the I9 Hydras holding up? Do you notice the difference going back to the P321s or CKs?

That tape trick for the quick links is a top tip.

I've settled on a edc tool in the steerer tube with the bacon strips, with the little quick link tool and an Aussie $10 note for emergency coffee and sidewall tears. 

I've got the big edc pump but found it a bit fiddly and the pump head can lose grip of the presta valve when your pumping like crazy and getting tired.

For a pump I use a Topeak Turbo Morph or the smaller Giyo gm71. These are convertible mini pumps with fold out handles and foot stand, and a gauge! The weight is on par with the big edc pump and a CO2 cartridge, but its way more reliable and you don't have to worry about limping home on a half filled 29x2.4. 

For my tube I use a storage bottle if there's a bottle mount, or a Dakine hotlaps gripper if there isn't. This also fits a Wolftooth quick link pliers wrapped with electrical tape. The tape is to save rims and stick the $10 note on tears. Also a patch kit for triple redundancy.

Finally zip ties in the crank axles. Phew!

+1 for the Wolftooth pack pliers. They make short work of annoying quicklinks and are good tyre levers. Perhaps too good, I wrap some electrical tape around the lever to protect rims.

Hi Andrew,

Have you tried an DVO Onyx SC? If not, how would you compare the Mezzer to the Diamond NSMB had a few years ago?

I've got a Onyx Sc on my 27.5 enduro bike and its pretty much the best fork I own. But I'm Mezzer (and Mara) curious.

Regards,

Hopeless Bike Slut.

I've found rock and roll blue to be the best chain lube for all conditions. It deals well with dusty and sandy Australian conditions as well as NZ mud. 

Interestingly I don't need to de-grease before applying to a new chain. In fact I don't bother de-greasing chains at all with rnr blue. Simply wipe down chain and re-lube.

In terms of grease, I use:

-Shimano anti-seize

-Slicko for suspension

-Castrol marine grease for Hope hubs

-Finish line ceramic grease for bearings

-Manitou m-prep for igus bushings

-Dumondetech pro x grease for I9, DT, and P321 hubs.