rwalters profile

With all the "friendlier" options on the market now, I didn't think anyone was still using Procore! I'm sure you'd be ok - after all, the warranty has no disclaimers about inserts. The only stipulation is that you need to be the original owner, and you need to be riding the bike at the time of failure for a warranty consideration.

The goal with Convergence wasn’t a lighter rim, but a more durable wheel build and improved ride characteristics.

By WAO themselves. And you raise a valid point - I’m sure your e-bike won’t burst into flames (at least not due to the rims, haha!) if you run the Sectors, but it’s probably just a recommendation from WAO, steering you in the right direction for the right tools for the right job.

This description mirrors my experience so far. I’ve even used the word “damped” in describing the ride. And steering and line control is top notch. 

Well done, WAO.

I’m totally with you on the analog / acoustic bike silliness. Can we just call them bikes??

Stay tuned for my long term review…

Yeah, the Zipp is the extreme end of things. The WAO Triad feels awesome though.

And when I say "jarring", that's maybe too strong a word. The Unions aren't necessarily uncomfortable, but the Triad feels more forgiving to me.

From my experience riding on Unions and the new Triads, I have to admit that the Triad feels more comfortable - less jarring. While I'm not a rim designer, I would suspect that most of the "compliance" comes from the fact that the Triad is much slimmer in cross section than the Union, which allows it to flex more about the spoke nipple. If you imagine the spoke bed is fixed, the bead walls can still flex up and down a bit, relative to the spoke bed - similar to what the Zipp 3Zero Moto rims are doing.

It's subtle, but noticeable.

The Triad is the only Convergence rim available in both 29" and 27.5".

The other two are only available in 29".

You're not the first person to ask me about the spring rate. When I first got the 600# on the bike, I was a bit surprised that it still felt soft to me. I do tend to run my suspension quite stiff though - for the record, my setup with the Float X2 is 252psi and 2 volume spacers (the maximum). I still manage to bottom the shock about once or twice per ride.

Thanks. I definitely did my best to test this shock, and explored several avenues to get it to an ideal state for me. I have no doubt the MOD could be modded to work great for me, haha! Unfortunately, the review window wasn’t as long as I hoped, and the shock needed to go back to distributor.

And re: your calculations of rebound tune vs. spring rate (mentioned below) - it’s always cool when personal experience is backed up by actual data and measurements.

I've used a few different saddles over the years - never fell in love with anything in particular. Right now, I'm pretty happy with my Specialized Bridge. It comes in a few different price points (mainly due to rail material), and a few different widths as well. It's nearly two years old now, and has stood up surprisingly well.

Many shops will have some kind of butt measuring machine that analyzes where your sit bones are, and can help suggest a saddle size and shape.

Posted by: Vikb

Posted by: rwalters

Check out the contact info on the original website - that shop is in Georgia, USA.

Ah. Sorry. My mistake. I'll correct it in my post above. Thanks for catching that.

As the token NSMB.com machinist guy, it is my job to police all machine shop related content.

Posted by: Vikb

Posted by: rwalters

Posted by: Vikb

I worked next door to Straightline until May 2020. I checked with my old company a few months ago and Straightline was going strong. They mostly do high end machining for aerospace and the bike parts side of things is because they are riders and it uses excess machine capacity. They don't spend a lot of effort on their marketing/website/SM.

http://www.straightlineprecision.com/

That website is not correct - different company. I'm sure there are several "Straightline" machine shops.

That is correct and it is the same company, but it's their CNC machining side of the business not their bike parts retail site....as noted above. At the time we were discussing this in the thread their bike parts website was down.

Bike Parts Retail ---> https://www.straitlinecomponents.com/

So close! Check out the contact info on the original website - that shop is in Georgia, USA.

Posted by: Vikb

I worked next door to Straightline until May 2020. I checked with my old company a few months ago and Straightline was going strong. They mostly do high end machining for aerospace and the bike parts side of things is because they are riders and it uses excess machine capacity. They don't spend a lot of effort on their marketing/website/SM.

http://www.straightlineprecision.com/

That website is not correct - different company. I'm sure there are several "Straightline" machine shops.

We were riding up the highway today, and found a Honda key fob on the side of the road. I’m assuming it’s probably a biker who lost it. Found on uphill side about a km below lookout. Message me if it’s yours with a description of keychain and I’ll get this back to you!

As long as you give the crown / headtube area a good wipe down after a dusty / muddy ride, you shouldn't have any real trouble with wear. This might not be the case if you drive or shuttle on bumpy, dusty roads. If in doubt, just get some 3M frame saver on the contact points.

In the era of small bikes are cool, I decided to go bigger. I wanted a DH bike that I could pedal around on, and I think this bike comes pretty darn close. It's not light, it's not the best climber, but I can beat the absolute piss out of it, and it doesn't fall apart. 

Notables:

-Zeb Ultimate

-Float X2 Factory

-Nobl TR37s

-OneUp everything

-Codes, 220mm rotors

-Assegai, DHR2, Tannus Tubeless Armour

-11 spd. drivetrain

Posted by: Gdreej

I wonder if there's a reasonant frequency related to bigger rotors, more material to vibrate - seriously! My Old 200/200 Codes screamed when wet, but it's also likely you're heavy on the brakes, late, as you should be - instead of brake dragger Dreej here.

Ha, I've actually found that the best way to quiet them down is to very slightly drag them - even when you don't need them. You're in good company Dreej - apparently that's now Minnaar brakes as well.

I've always been a "brake as hard as you can for as short a time as possible" kinda guy - and that's probably not ideal to silence howling brakes.

Posted by: thaaad

I HATE the Sram gurgle/warble so so so much. So much that I'm thinking of selling my Code RSCs despite the brakes feeling and performing great. 

I'm tempted to try a different brand of rotor but I don't really want to drop a hundred bucks on rotors and it not make a difference.

My thoughts exactly. Experimenting gets expensive - especially if it doesn't yield results.

Posted by: craw

My 2020 Code RSCs gurgle a lot at lower speeds, which I find annoying. And the odd shriek if the rotors are still cold and wet but generally that doesn't last long once the rotors warm up. That being said I hate those noises.

I know the exact gurgling noises you're talking about! If I could get away with ONLY those noises, I'd be super happy!