New posts

twk's posts

40 posts found

Oct. 19, 2021, 7:45 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: NSMB - 2021 - Hardtail Thread

**Posted by: velocipedestrian

**The SA is too slack as it sits now (forgot to measure), and there's no room for a proper size 29 tyre, so headset and fork are the options for geo changes.

On my V2 I can fit a 2.4 on a 29mm ID rim in the long chainstay setting (which I prefer with big wheels anyway) -- are you on the shorter chainstay first gen?

Oct. 17, 2021, 11:33 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: NSMB - 2021 - Hardtail Thread

Posted by: Vikb

Proof I am not lying. This new fender is too long even for my bizarre tastes!

I'm more concerned by the lack of chain tension on that oddly complicated bicycle of yours ;-)

Sept. 30, 2021, 10:05 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: NSMB - 2021 - Hardtail Thread

Posted by: geraldooka

You'll likely need a 1/8 chain if using a half-link. Most narrow-wide chainrings will not fit a 3/32 half-link.

That is a good catch! most (all?) 1/8" chains clear most (all?) N/W chainrings, even narrow links on wide teeth. But with adequate tension, and no sprung tensioner I find dedicated singlespeed chainrings with even tooth profiles to be cheaper and just as reliable, which again opens up the possibilities for narrower chains.

Sept. 30, 2021, 6:37 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: NSMB - 2021 - Hardtail Thread

On the topic of singlespeed tensioning solutions:

I recommend running a single half link in a compatible chain instead of a half link chain (KMC Z1 and HL1 work well together, I tested the 1/8" versions, but I bet the 3/32" variants would work too). Way cheaper and you have half-links for life, plus any durability concerns people regularly voice about half link chains no longer apply to you :)

For magic gear ratios, there's this here gem of early 2000s webdesign: https://eehouse.org/fixin/fixmeup

I can also second that a BB mounted chain roller works nicely as a fixed position tensioner (I used a Blackspire Stinger, clamped by the BB, with no issues).
Similar fixed wheel tensioners exist to be mounted instead of a derailleur (DMR make one if I remember correctly).

Good sprung tensioners are available from SB-One (mounts on the derailleur hanger, clears only a 17t, but is indeed a nifty piece of kit), and I think I saw someone use a pinion tensioner meant to be mounted on the Gearbox hacked to some ISCG tabs. I've heard mixed things about the Rohloff and Alfine tensioners. When I last tried to source a Yess tensioner I couldn't find one over here in europe, sadly.

Finally, there's eccentric BB conversions for BSA frames at least (I can only think of the Trickstuff Exzentriker), but that's expensive, doesn't give much tensioner range, and restricts you to run 24mm cranks (though I personally don't see an issue in that).

As a curiosity, I'll also add that Ghost Rings are a thing: http://rollinginboston.bostonbiker.org/2012/04/08/installing-a-ghostring-on-a-single-speed-or-internally-geared-bicycle/
Not sure I'd want that on an MTB though.

April 10, 2021, 1:04 p.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: Weird Old(ish) Drivetrain Mixing

The M6000 GS has a clutch (servicable as usual with shimano), but sourcing I can't help you with given I am a few thousand miles and an ocean over ;)

April 9, 2021, 8:02 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: Weird Old(ish) Drivetrain Mixing

Posted by: tashi

I run a race face 30t on a XTR triple, sun race 46t 10 speed cassette, KMC chain, 10 speed XTw/ RadR cage and 10 speed XTR shifter. Works beaut. 

Dunno if a RadR cage is still available, but stock 10 speed shimano (probably) won’t go to a 46 tooth cog.  Apparently 11 speed Shimano derailleurs will and mesh with 10 speed well.

The aforementioned M6000 Deore 10spd Derailleur does indeed work with no mods on an 11-46, provided it is the model with the GS cage (no idea about the SGS variant). Shifted very nicely on the aforementioned SunRace cassette with a KMC 10spd chain and Saint shifter (or any nicer Shimano 10spd or compatible~ish offering). No issues with chain growth on a 150mm four-bar either. That said, I'd also first try to get the non-clutch derailleur to work on a wider-range cassette.

Feb. 13, 2021, 3:42 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: NSMB - 2021 - Hardtail Thread

Posted by: velocipedestrian

Lots of preference for big volume over big wheel coming out. But also the potential downsides of plus tyres.

Assuming it won't tip the seat angle too far back, or mean endless pedal strikes - anyone have thoughts on same tyre and rim widths in a mullet setup? 

I'm thinking i30-35 x 2.6 could be a good compromise... 

(I'm sure I'll be second guessing myself for ages, since I have to do some saving for these wheels & fork anyway)

I should mention that my experiments with a plus and a 29er wheel all have been with a 29er in i29 and a 2.4 Michelin DH34 in the front. Mullet's rather nice in that combination.

I however learned once again why I don't like Maxxis' EXO carcass -- just a tiny hole from a tiny mishap that didn't want to seal had me walking home with frozen fingers. A buddy of mine is very happy with WTB TCS Tough tyres in 2.8" though...

Feb. 12, 2021, 2:32 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: NSMB - 2021 - Hardtail Thread

Posted by: velocipedestrian

So, I'm building up a Pipedream Moxie V1... It has limited 29er tyre clearance in the back. I have a commuter / gravel wheelset which will fit fine, but I'm pondering what to use for the mountain bicycling part.

Would you rather...

Max 29x2.4 on i25 rim, or 27.5+?

I'll be aiming for 29xi30-i35 with 2.4-2.6 on the front.

Based on my experience with my Moxie V2, size long:

- shortest possible chainstay setting + 29er wheel only clears relatively low profiled tyres, and tends to be a bit more harsh (tested on i23 rim and 2.3" Maxxis Aggressor)

- longest possible chainstay setting + 29er wheel works rather nicely, the frame absorbs significantly more chatter and the geo feels more balanced to me (older e*thirteen trs+ in 2.35" on the same rim)

However, I wanted get the fun, albeit unbalanced feel of short chainstays on that frame, and that works rather well with a 650b i40 rim and 2.8" Maxxis Rekon+: trail chatter and such is manageable with the large tyre volume, and the bike is less of a handful to get onto the back wheel etc. The large air volume is a bit of a double-edged sword as others alluded to -- too high pressure means the rear pings off roots and rocks and can knock you me line rather quick, too low pressure means rim strikes. I managed to order some cheap inserts off planet x for 14£, so I'll find out how that affects things when they finally arrive here.

So in your situation I'd decide based on preference for chainstay length and rear tyre tread. If I remember correctly, the V1 has even shorter chainstays than the V2, too...

Jan. 8, 2021, 5:14 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: Magura MT5/Trail/MT7 questions

Posted by: Hepcat

Buddy's got some old Saint levers he hasn't got any use for. Going to try throwing those on there I believe, unless anyone knows a reason I shouldn't?

You might want to check against the frankenbrake spreadsheet:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sjPSmOYbhjDBFxcvXVw1ufKfowEBu1AKh8sB6T8e24Y/edit#gid=0

But if it's a M810/M820 it should match up rather well from all I know.

Jan. 8, 2021, 5:09 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: Sramano- Franken Drivetrain - Covidiot or no..

Posted by: fartymarty

Is anyone on here still running 10 speed?

My current setup is full 10 speed, XT shifter, HG95 chains (rotating 3), Zee mech (11-36), Shimano HG500 11-42 cassette, Works Chainring or similar.  I run this on my HT and FS bike (Starling Murmur).  Even though the Zee is only rated to 36t it works fine on my frame for 42.

My geared bike is currently not geared, but it'd usually run a 10spd saint shifter, a deore m6000 10spd mech (or an older XT if I can find the missing parts for it), HG54(?) chains, on a fc mt700 crank with 34 shimano ring and an 11-46 sunrace cassette. Works pretty well, the range is enough for me on a 150mm 29er platform and I don't have to drop that much dough on wearables. Then again, a singlespeed drivetrain in 1/8" with stainless steel ring and steel cog costs as much as that cassette, so it's all relative.

Dec. 31, 2020, 4:12 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: Whatchu get for Xmas?

Posted by: velocipedestrian
The 'official' shimano bleed is top down, so the gunge is more likely to collect in the caliper.

I've heard the theory that the servo-wave amplifies any bubble issues, as the lever has to move further. But the m9000 race lever mentioned doesn't have it, so no more clever thoughts.

The theories I've heard involved the port connecting the reservoir at the lever to the rest of the system being small enough to restrict oil flow, causing fluctuations in the active oil volume between brake actuations in quick succession. Of course that might in turn get amplified when enough contaminants are in the system. Why rear brakes in particular seem to be more fragile in this regard I have no idea, but that's been my experience with all shimano setups -- rear brakes require more frequent bleeds for me, and the quirky shigura I mentioned is also a rear. Small sample sizes between three brakes and suboptimal bleeding in some cases, so not enough for a definite conclusion by an armchair... I mean message board engineer like moi ;)

Dec. 30, 2020, 3:01 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: Whatchu get for Xmas?

Posted by: RAHrider
Does anyone know if the shimano wandering bite point is solved by replacing the caliper with a magura?

A buddy and I have been fiddling with a M9000 XTR Race lever + MT6 caliper combo and so far weren't able to resolve the wandering bitepoint despite repeated bleeds. Whether it's due to shortcomings of bleeding technique or an inherent issue at the lever I can only guess so far.

Dec. 18, 2020, 8:26 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: NSMB - 2020 - Hardtail Thread

Posted by: RAHrider

Isn't a Singulator a reliable single speed option? i like shorter chainstays to make the bike easier to get on the back wheel etc so the thing i never really liked about horizontal dropouts is that it makes perfectly short chainstays too long. Sometimes you get lucky with your gear and the chainstay length but I'm just as happy to run a singulator.

Sprung tensioners are noisy and sensitive to chainline, frame flex and contamination with thick mud in my experience and depending on the frame, longer chainstays might actually feel pretty nice/better than the short setting, but that's obviously personal preference. Also think of the clean lines!

I had a ~1992 GT Tequesta set up with a fixed tensioner at the BB, that worked pretty nicely, but even there noise and friction were more significant than on a nicely set up bike with an EBB, sliders or track ends.

Dec. 15, 2020, 3:21 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: Apartment bike storage

A dorm I lived in had a similar solution, and while it was alright, it got fiddly quick because of the tight space and overall chaos, as well as tight fit between tyres and hooks. I imagine it would work better if there were less users and a more orderly surrounding, but the core issue I had with it was that bikes became a double pendulum with a floating top pivot...

Dec. 13, 2020, 2:50 a.m.
Posts: 40
Joined: Feb. 9, 2019
Re: Show off your mud flaps!

second,I think an off road ss makes way more sense than bikebacking. I would have thought the opposite until I started riding my gravel ss. The range you want when including gravel/pavement in your riding is pretty large. On dirt you can get away with an easier gear. To be honest, I ride faster with a ss off road. On my gravel bike I run 36x16 which runs 28kmh at 90rpm. I regularly spin out on flat pavement. At the same time, there are some hills that are near impossible to climb in north van. Also, on gravel/dirt you don't get enough traction to drive such a big gear.

Definitely give ss a go, but it is the most fun imo on an mtb.

I would tend to agree -- depending on the terrain you want to bikepack, a singlespeed might involve a lot of spinouts or walking. I did a ~600km bikepacking ride this summer on mostly gravel roads, some singletrack and plenty of pavement. The flats were excruciating on a 34x16 gear with 26x2.2" tyres and a headwind. Other than that, I was very happy with the gear choice, but that's down to adjusting to riding singlespeed. So gearing is definitely something that needs figuring out, either by riding the same bike in comparable terrain, or by carrying an extra cog + tools if that's possible. I was surprised how little the additional load affected my gear preferences though -- I ride the same bike with identical gearing as my commuter and XC bike locally and it's just as fun. As a contrast, my suspended mountainbikes get more dedicated gearing (32x19 and 34x18 on the hardtail and full suspension, both 29ers in the 160mm travel range), which is pretty much only good for "winch-and-plummet" style riding. I wouldn't go bikepacking on either unless I had access to a route which is mostly fireroads and proper trails. Finally, my 50x17 track bike is limited to daylong rides, as at about 100km and 1k meters of elevation I tend to be exhausted enough *without* additional gear to lug around.

(Disclaimer: I run all my bikes as singlespeeds/fixed at the moment, so I'm heavily biased)

40 posts found

Forum jump: