I can echo that -- Bonty Rimstrip + WTB Tough casing = a day of swearing getting the damn thing on and then seated evenly after the initial seal
To be honest, I think the dropper was the single best decision in that build -- it makes switching from XC riding to anything more... fun ;) way nicer -- and it's one of those saddle-lever actuated things so no remote to maintain. The QR is built into the frame and less than amazing though.
I keep getting surprised by how versatile the frame is -- who thought ~10 year old XC bikes handle amazing for some trials-y jibbing around, loaded touring, and -- gasp -- XC riding.
Heh... my Walt clone is a 26", 71° HA, short wheelbase bike with 60mm moto risers and a BMX stem and 2.2" tyres. It's got a modded dropper to fit a particularly pesky sized but lovely riding Reynolds 853 seattube, but I still suck at riding the thing. I'll post it when I get some proper shots of it. Seems like we need a rigid bike thread ;)
Am I doing this right?
I can only second that sentiment -- my moxie rides way better with longer chainstays. Putting the wheel further behind me translates to more balanced feel given the long reach, and less jarring impacts coming through from the rear.
In my experience riding my Moxie at short (~425 and less short ~435), less short delivers a more balanced and somehow equally flickable ride at 470mm reach. Longer chainstays all the way!
To add another voice to the choir:
I've been running a 10spd saint shifter, deore m6000 mech, race face aeffect cranks with a steel ring and a CSMX3 with great results, acceptable price and who knows how many miles now. Seeing buddies constantly have issues with repurposed coke cans stamped into derailleur-shaped objects on 4k$+ bikes really bugs me.
So if Deore RD-M6000 is officially compatible with an 11-42, and can fit an 11-46 sunrace cassette just fine on a full suspension bike... I have to wonder whether we'll get 11-50 10spd cassettes from sunrace now...
In my experience, the Bird Aeris AM9 isn't too hard on the kickback either, even with 54 engagement points. But it stiffens up under pedaling, so flat bumpy corners are best approached with a lot of entry speed and minimal pedaling. Not sure how transferable those observations are to a different (albeit similarly behaving) rear end.
I second that it climbs amazingly -- I run a coil shock with no platform on it and I don't think it's holding me back.
Yeah, but they intermix all the threads of discussion if applied to comments...
Compromise: Change one thing at a time to make analysis easier.
I echo the observation regarding flat levers; pumping some awkward dips became much more natural once I made the adjustment.
It was a set of RF Aeffects without the self-extracting bolt configuration. Other than requiring an ISIS/octalink extractor to remove, the torque rating is crazy high on those -- 60 or 70 Nm no less!
Long story short, the crank started constantly loosening on the splines, which prompted more and more tightening from yours truly, until one day the allen head stripped clean out.
Lots of cursing ensued, none of the screw extracting tricks I applied worked, and I finally had to concede and write off the cranks. Because at some point one of the crank spacers snapped, there was enough space to get the angle grinder between BB and non-driveside crankarm. I even managed to take off the nice oval ring with little to no damage.
I check my other set of Aeffects regularly, but the self-extracting crank bolt is way less troublesome.
Between two bikes:
* two hubs need a relube
* two chains that are pretty worn out
* one BB feeling like sand after getting to know my angle grinder during operation "fck these cranks"
* one set of pedals sloppy
* one fork due for a lower-leg and air spring service
I'll go back to the bike maintenance corner of shame now...
While I usually have the same criticism of ebikes, it should be pointed out that the amount I eat also depends on how long my (unmotorized) rides are, so that zero-emission point doesn't entirely stand.
I haven't done the math which is worse for the environment, and that also depends on one's diet and supply chain(s).
Did I just read "friction thumb shifter"?
If I did -- how does such a setup feel on the trails in the modern age? While my min-maxing is certainly a bit more budget-oriented, I hold on to my 10spd saint shifter as that thing just feels nice. But if I break it at some point...
Kudos to you, I always love reading pieces like this!
I agree -- ease of maintenance only matters when one actually has to do it. That said, since I don't expect to switch bikes any time soon (unless I have to warranty a frame etc), I have to consider both, especially because I ride year-round and the weather tends to suck most of that time, too.
I like being prepared for eventualities :)