Tremeer023 profile

Been using this for a few years now.  It's ideal for 2 hr local rides and it holds a foldable .7 litre water bottle along with tools and snacks.  Will never ride with a backpack again - i personally find that the added comfort, particularly in the heat easily outweighs the extra weight on the bike.

I can run EXO tyres with no inserts for most of my riding but had Huck Norris in the back of the HT for a year or so.  Just had a weight-saving spring clean and removed it, still in near new condition.  Maxxis ikon 2.35 on 35mm ID aluminium rim.

Interested in the new xc Cushcore though for rooty sections and casing bigger jumps.  Don't need the pinch flat protection really, just want a bit more comfort/ rear damping sometimes and run-flat safety would be nice, neither of which Huck provided.

I'm running Huck Norris in the rear.  I was considering Cush Core but the weight was a turn-off, so really interested in this xc version.  The original has run-flat capability which is quite unique, I wonder if the xc version does too.  If it does, I'm a buyer.

Interesting.  Must admit that I do like a good concave shaped pedal.  I find it provides a bit of security with the feet sitting 'in' the pedal slightly.

Nice detailed review.  I run Vaults and these appear to be quite similar on paper. 

Genuine (and possibly naive) question, what are the problems with super thin pedals? Never tried any but the increased ground clearance argument sounds legit.

I've recently retired my old Impact Lows in favour of something lighter (Etnies mid crank) for the more mellow riding I do these days.  Still use the Impacts for winter walks with the family though and agree they make a very comfy cold weather walking shoe.  

The updated version looks much better, and totally agree that the old ones were massively heavy when soaked.

Thanks for the link to the small brake levers.  Literally just purchased and built up an 18 inch wheeled bmx (GT Performer) for my son and most of it is well proportioned, but the brake levers are basically adult sized. 

Good article, and good point about paint scuffs.  Got a Strider balance bike at home which my younger son has now - you should see the state of the paintwork!

Got to A and E and had a CT scan to diagnose.

Had to sign a form before going under the knife, and it was mentioned by the surgeon whilst he was explaining my predicament and the need for the procedure.  

He effectively saved my life though so it's all good. :-)

I ruptured my spleen and needed an emergency splenectomy about 6 years ago.  The surgeon gave me about 30 mins to live before I would bleed out at one point.   Was sessioning a large table jump and tried to whip the opposite way but didn't get the rear end around.  

Since then I've had 2 children and, whilst I still love riding, it has changed my perspective on injury massively.  I'm nowhere near as reckless as my younger days and actually appreciate the time on the bike more as a result.

Thanks for your thoughts. Yeh, I really rate Hope products and have their hubs, bb, and headset currently.  I used to have their brakes on another bike and they were faultless. 

My brakes are by far the oldest component on my current bike and they were heavily discounted when I bought them. Wouldn't usually splash out on fancy carbon bits (because I'm a cheapskate:-) and very reluctant to let them go.  I've grown used to their warm touch in winter.

Posted by: craw

Posted by: Tremeer023

I'm a fraction under 6ft and have tried a 29r hardtail but went back to 27.5 with 35mm rims and 2.6/2.4 tyres for more playfulness.  Still provides good rollover, but this is probably the exception to the rule as my trails are very tame (no rocks or proper hills even), plus a small bike park which is tight and twisty.  

Horses for courses. If you have 'proper' trails available to you then I would expect 29 is the way to go - buy a Rootdown.  However, if you are also the exception to the rule (or maybe have a sus rig for big hills and just want a HT for jumping and messing around on) then consider the Stylus.

Which is funny because for the longest time 29ers were only suitable for dirt roadies on lycra smooth trails. Look how far we've come.

Yeh. Shows just how much difference frame geometry and other minor tweaks can make.

I'm a fraction under 6ft and have tried a 29r hardtail but went back to 27.5 with 35mm rims and 2.6/2.4 tyres for more playfulness.  Still provides good rollover, but this is probably the exception to the rule as my trails are very tame (no rocks or proper hills even), plus a small bike park which is tight and twisty.  

Horses for courses. If you have 'proper' trails available to you then I would expect 29 is the way to go - buy a Rootdown.  However, if you are also the exception to the rule (or maybe have a sus rig for big hills and just want a HT for jumping and messing around on) then consider the Stylus.

Ha, cheers. We're pretty happy with the slide. Keeps the kids entertained whilst I mess around with the bike.

My fork is a 140mm 29r Yari with 51mm offset. Works pretty well even with a slack (64 -65 degree sagged position) head angle. Bit of flop at low speeds but better stability at higher speed. 

From what I've read, a 5mm difference in offset is so marginal in terms of feel on the trails.  As noticeable as running a bit more or less sag, or a slightly fatter rear tyre.

Last one, I'll stop now:

Drive side:

Red detailing:

New paint job. Supposed to be matte black but I was misled by the powder coaters:

Posted by: fartymarty

I don't notice the lack of travel as it is really progressive.  What I do miss is the slacker HA and longer WB.  It is a bit twitchier at high speed but not a deal breaker.

Another thing to consider would be an angle set.  I have a Works -2 and it drops the bars and steepens the STA.

Hmmm, thanks.  An angle set could be worth trying at some point.   Yeh, a longer wheelbase does provide a bit more safety I find.

Posted by: fartymarty

Plus my terrain (in Surrey UK) doesn't warrant much more than 120mm (I have just changed back to Pikes after 2 months rigid)

Hi Marty.  I live in Hampshire which is also very tame.  Been running a 140mm 29r fork on my Ragley but need to run about 35 - 40% sag for the perfect geometry.  I think reducing the travel and chucking in more tokens (+ bit more air) as you have done could be the way to go.  Quite like the over-forked ride for downs but definitely not on the climbs.

Have you noticed much less forgiveness over the rough stuff?

Posted by: Kenny

I think it's wierd people want longer stays. If you want a super stable plow bike, get a full suspension bike. Imo the short stays suit the riding style and use case for the bikes. On that same note I don't see the use for the doctahawk personally, because I'm not trying to replace my full suspension bike. Don't get me wrong I think it's rad they are building it, but it doesn't fit my use case, personally.

The Doctahawk is definitely at the extreme end of the spectrum and not really for me either. I can understand taller people who love hardtails being interested in this for the reach though, but 180mm fork on a HT? Surely if your trails can justify that much travel up front you would be better served with a full sus.

Also agree with the long chainstays comment, HT's are about manuals and goofing around.