I know of many whom have had their bikes taken from their garage (albeit mostly the garage was left open/unlocked). I take no chances and even use my 30# chain and kryptonite lock on my bikes even if the garage is secure.
Yep, I built up my 140r/150f new modern geo 29 in response to my previous trail bike's shortcomings. Had I known how much more capable the geo makes the bike I would've went with less travel all around. Heck my modern geo HT doesn't flinch down stuff I'd walk my old 130/130 mm trail bike down.
In addition suspension has also been doing more with less. In the coming years the 100-130mm travel will be the next hot segment to get modern geo. And eventually more of it will trickle down to pure XC race bikes.
I've been running one on the front of my trail bike the past couple of days. It's light, fast rolling, and has really good cornering abilities. It kind of defies logic...
Wait so you fit a 2.6 Bonti in the rear? I have a 2.6 XR5 up front and wondered if it would fit in the back. Do you find the minions roll faster? I'm debating on going to 2.5 minion up front and unsure if it'll actually roll faster. I find the 2.6 to roll fine and XR casing is light but it's more of placebo of such a huge tire.
I don't mean to purchase a steel bike then harp about weight. Thanks to Joe's ingenuity I think it's quite light for what it is- a steel dual suspension bike. It competes with any aluminum frame weight, and heck most carbon AM bikes nowadays are easily in the 32-34 lb range.
The Radavist review said their large murmur came in at 30 pounds with mid level parts. I want to call BS on that. My murmur was roughly 32# with carbon wheels and lighter tires when I first built it up... but it also hauled so much ass I broke some things and had to go heavier/more durable.
If you're coming from a HT and have no problems pedaling the starling I'm sure I'll be happier once I go back to the more efficient/lighter air shock.
Good timing on your question. I have a 32t oval and there is some noticeable bob. I tried a 32t round and there was still bob- a little less than the oval. Also, I had a lot of difficulty with the stroke of the round ring so I went back to oval.
TBH I've debated selling it. I love the bike but I've realized it doesn't resonate with my riding needs. I need something more efficient and a little lighter. It rides beautifully on the downs but overall doesn't feel spritely on the climbs and everywhere in between. I am putting it on a diet and going back to air shock as a last ditch effort. Yeah I went full enduro with the coil shock which certainly isn't helping.
just here to comment on the rose in the background of the photos. your artistic attempt didn't go unnoticed lol
So I’m curious ... if you recommend no elastomer I’m assuming that is a lot more active than their cheaper non elastomer model?
I think you missed the part where it said that SPIN is Poc's version of MIPS.
Glad I don't have to deal with this. New bike is steel framed and honestly couldn't give two sh*t's about the finish. Actually looking forwards to paint wear and tear so I can strip it and sandblast it a different color in a year or two.
If you guys did some character building and added some more arc's I can watch a couple seasons of this.
"my knees like a bit of float"
I don't understand? the shoes let your knees float cause less sticky rubber? make it a 2:15 review please
That’s a pretty bad false equivalence argument. We all put on our seatbelts when we get in a car just like we all put on a helmet when we go on a ride.
I don't get it... you're essentially still strapping the tube onto your frame but adding a layer of complexity/weight with not much extended functionality. Not much of a "storage solution".
I went through the 'try to strap everything' to the frame phase and found that it was quite limited. What about my phone? what about small bits and pieces? Snacks? and what if I don't want to buy a specialized carbon frame?
Eventually I settled on a very small frame bag. The EDC frame bag from Bedrock works really well and fits into an unused and out of the way portion of your frame. It's ~7"x7"x6", less than 3 ounces, and shields from elements. In it I have a One Up 70cc pump and EDC tool, Clif bar, emergency headlamp, clear lens for glasses, some first aid wraps and bandages, tp, derailleur hanger, small bits like valve cores, water tablets, patch kits.
That in conjunction with a fork cork I now ride mostly pack-less and when any one gives me crap I run through a list of everything I have on me. Usually more prepared than the packed critics...
Yeah, I had a good chuckle when I read your bet. I was surprised to see Ohlins out that quickly. You were right about how quickly the industry would adopt and market the shorter offset fork... that's nearly all of spec's lineup!
Judging from my predicament with just a 45mm stem and 46mm offset, and from what was said in the article about how Transition had mixed results with slightly different setups, it seems like a shorter offset fork isn't exactly the right answer for a lot of riders! (depending on many little factors)
re: shorter stem/46mm offset debacle
Your rule of thumb helped a lot and since there was no way for me to go longer on the stem I started by trying out a shorter 35mm stem. Overall I've been very happy with the new bike fit. It's a Starling Murmur (Perry's review did have some influence on my purchase decision)
The order I planned on testing out:
1. Shorter 35mm stem, same spacer/bar height
2. Shorter 35mm stem, lower handlebar height by shifting spacers around
3. Shorter 35mm stem, and/or lower handlebar, and shaving off a tiny bit of handlebar width
4. Then onto messing with handlebar roll.. but I have a SQLabs bar (you had an influence on that! haha) and I feel the 12° backsweep kind of limits how much roll you can play with. I tried to keep the handlebar in the same exact position.
I guess step 0. was concentrate on keeping my weight more centered, and that helped a bit. But then the shorter 35mm stem came in and I got a ride on it today. And I'm happy to report that 10mm shorter made a huge noticeable difference! I don't have to consciously keep my body weight back and cornering felt a lot more natural. I think it helped quicken up the steering just a tad also. I will continue to test ride and adjusting my technique.
Thanks for your time and help. All my riding friends tend to glaze over when I try and nerd out about little things like this! Keep up the good content, I enjoy NSMB even though I'm in Southern California.
Just checked... the 2019 Specialized Enduro comes with Fox/Rockshox now and still only 51mm. Where do you want to send the $20?
J/k. Overall still a good read while I contemplate if my new longer reach/longer wheelbase/slacker HTA frame + 45mm stem is putting me too forward over my 46mm offset fork. Overall bike feels great for climbing (steep STA) and plowing rock gardens but having trouble cornering- bike feels like its understeering and the back end slides out a bit too easily. Trying to keep myself centered but I think that’s translating to me being too far forward. Any thoughts? Obviously technique needs work but wondering what adjustments I can make.