neilBar profile

I managed to get rid of the wobble by deflating and massaging the position of the insert

Great to get your reply Cam, thanks for that. The soft grounbd season is coming in South UK so a bit lower tyre pressure will be a bit plus. I'm sure tannut will help with that- and damping on the rocks and roots

Hi Lynx

I was just passing on what I was told by an engineer who owns a bike shop and has been in bikes for 40 years+ - I didn’t want you to think I was criticising your choice.

let's see how you get on, please keep us posted here. I hope they work well

As to measurements, the centre may be more important - the centre of a mallet DH cleat position is 55mm from the crank face, plainly cranks can take the leverage of those. 

As to the likelihood of strikes - I wrote: "I guess the average XC clip pedal is small, so far less likely to strike. "

I love the way you can clip into Mallets backwards, I feel that’s safer.

I rode years on the same set of Mallet cleats too. Release tension is adjusted by reversing the cleat. (and choosing the right cleat) I don't think the WC pros have issues with coming unclipped inadvertently. They do wear I've seen that, better than the pedal bars wearing IMO.(although they DO wear a bit too.) Its pretty sandy mud here so I'd imagine mine have had some abrasion. Having said that I'm injured so have been on flats a while now.

Hi Lynx. Me too. I imagine it’s about leverage. 

If the centre of your foot moves away from the crank interface there’s more stress. I guess the average XC clip pedal is small, so far less likely to strike. 

Maybe forget extenders and get Mallet DH - as featured on virtually every WCDH winners bike.

Ooh. There’s these now too. 

https://www.dmrbikes.com/Catalogue/Pedals/Pins-Bearings-Axles-and-Tools/V-Grip-Pins

Anyone tried the James Wilson Catalyst pedals? Long and supportive for a forward foot position - quite narrow tho. 

My feet blew off the Catalysts with the standard grub screw pins on the Mk1 (mk 2 has better pins I believe, the perils of being an early adopter) - the pedal were saved by tapping out the holes for these DMR killer “Moto” pins.  https://www.dmrbikes.com/Catalogue/Pedals/Pins-Bearings-Axles-and-Tools/Vault-Moto-X-Pins

Asked my local mate who owns a Specialized dealership. He’s a good engineer. Makes stuff too. 

His opinion. Extenders are ok for touring bikes but mtb - no. One big clip of the pedals and it could be game over for the crank threads.

If the foot moves further from the crank of course leverage is increased.

Could those pedal axle extender place too much leverage / stress on the crankarm threads?

Also:

https://www.bikeradar.com/news/specialized-recalls-body-geometry-pedal-extenders/?image=2&type=gallery&gallery=1

I wonder if that was an issue with concept or poor manufacturing.

Hey Andrew. Another great review. Hood tech explanation. Plenty of good pics. 

Like you I’m an “under the arches” pedaller. Mine was injury inspired too. A disc herniation has left me with a weak calf - recovering ever so slowly. My foot is WAY forward  

Because the arch of a shoe is narrower I find the even the pretty wide  5-10 Sam Hill Impacts I like don’t get anywhere near the crank side pins on most pedals. I guess you’re seeing that with these too. Those pins are VERY close in. 

Kona’s bargain WahWah composite really suit me -amazing grip and no pins near the crank to miss out on. Plus I like the chamfered front edge (like the Wolftooth and Vault) which seems less likely to catch a crab. I wonder if that’s true  

I live in Brighton tho - so I’d love to be using local pedals!! Vaults are pretty close geographically and another lovely pedal just slightly edged out by the WahWah. The Vailts too have inner pins my soles never touch. 

Happy trails man.

No problem using a Shimano derailleur on a sram cassette. I do. XX1 cassette and chain (toughest)   XTR derailleur (light action). XT mech. 

Been like that 3 years. No issues.

rnayel - I suggest you have a look at "ZeroFrictionCycling" and Silca wax if you want a drivetrain that really lasts. Something like 5 x minimum chainlife (thus saving that rather costly cassette. 

Immersive waxing with a boiling water clean after each wet ride isn't as tedious as it sounds. 

The only tedious bit is the initial cleanse of the new chain and Silca now have that sorted with their new cleaner product (cleans multiple chains, a one bath treatment) 

[here come the haters though]

And get an X01 chain for the GX. Those GX chains wear (and rust I'm told).

Andy, why not get some of these very cheap tools to keep the seals property clean of grit, dust etc (often) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133699567979** - **and use EXT's "Magic" oil https://www.mojo.co.uk/ev68s-inc-plastic-pick-tool-1716-p.asp inside the seals after, use it often, they should be fine for a good while

Mojo write:

"Otherwise and more commonly known as 'Magic oil'! This small bottle of brilliance can be used in place of a lowers service to bring back that as new sliding feeling... Supplied in a small 100ml bottle with a tiny squeezy nozzle it is designed to be administered a few ccs at a time past the fork's dust seals. Supplied with a plastic pick which can be used to pry open the dust seal lip enough to get the nozzle past or can simply be done with a zip tie or two...

It is the same oil as used in the lowers of the ERA fork and at 100ml is enough for a full lowers service on an ERA and also lots of top ups through the dust seals. Not only for EXT forks it can bring other manufacturers forks alive by embedding the additive particles into the stanchion and bushing sliding surfaces...

EV68S Synth's custom blend of additives prolongs the useful life of the lubricant already in the fork. The feel at the handlebars of an injection of this 'Magic oil' is the same as a full lowers service and freshen up but at a fraction of the time and cost..."

In the UK we have Toolsation and Screwfix, large purveyors of tools etc for builders. A while back I turned up a ways from home ready to ride except - no spex! Screwfix fixed me up with DeWalt clear safety glasses - they look OK and more importantly work well, no bouncing. The glass isn't "non reflective" seemingly but at under a tenner whats not to like.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-auger-clear-lens-safety-specs/3024p

Posted by: fartymarty

Spotted this a while ago,

https://www.rivbike.com/products/cassettes-7

These look awesome.  Need to find someone in UK with them.

Interesting. Very.

Cushcore (and some other) valves have the holes in the sides. So the insert can’t block airflow.

Google images in your friend here.

Hi

I had some misgivings about a steep seat angle but got used to it pretty fast. 

Generally that kind of bike is made more for standing / leaning the bike under you on trails, rather than steering through whilst seated IMO. 

I’ve been on a 79 degree seat tube (Chris Porter / Mojo-Rising / Geometron Bikes geometry) for 7 years now and not looked back. It’s part of making a long reach, long chainstay, low BB slack bike handle right.

I even slide the (Specialized Power) seat right forward on the rails. 

For sure you get some weight on the bars (which does wonders for front end grip) and therefore pressure on the wrists hands. 

Maybe this geometry is better suited to more dynamic mtb rides rather than long tours/cruises. To be fair tho, triathletes do distance well on very forward seats. 

Maybe it’s partly a body issue. Many of us have spent our lives seated resulting in weak posterior chains. 

I’d look at Dr. Eric Goodman’s “Foundation Training” YouTube videos - to strengthen the posterior chain. It happens quite quickly - seems more like awakening the muscles than strengthening, almost. 

Just my 2p

Hope it helps.

Sub to Fluidrideonline, ideal for some solo lockdown sessioning. Get my mojo tuned up I hope.