Fun writeup! Anyone who has wrenched on their car or maybe their bike has a story like this. For a first time through an unknown project, I usually add 50% to the estimated time experienced people report. I also try to remind myself not to throw a hammer at whatever it is I'm working on during the process when it doesn't go as planned.
I ride one of these exotics. I pulled the shock off to grease the SI last fall after about 2000 miles of riding, mostly dry but with a few mud days in there. All bearings were smooth turning without play except for one of the rocker link bearings that had become pitted. I took it too my local yeti dealer and had a new one pressed in for $16, including labor.
Rear end rebuild on some of today's bikes is a job I know I could do but I don't have access to 3 different bearing press kits. As such its one of those very few bike jobs I will pay my local shop to do for me. Hopefully I can milk another 2000 miles out of the rear pivots before it needs to get done! After reading this, I'll be sure tp drop it at the shop and pony up for the work.
Best piston and pedal yet! Love the 5 speed econo beater Honda from probably the best era of Honda's ever, improvised roof rack, and well used bike. No tach? No problem. Shift when it starts getting loud and power starts dropping off. Easy to work on, tough as nails, and a lot of fun to drive. Way more offroad capability than most people know.
I've repaired a cracked and smashed up carbon wheel with JB weld. It worked just fine for months before winter came and I sent it back to DT for a new hoop. There's a couple good vids on the interwebs with great info on how to get it done. Haven't done a frame though!
I’ve made fenders for the rear suspension bearings and bushings on many different bikes in the last 20 years, including Specialized, Ibis, Santa Cruz, and Yeti. It’s one of the first things I do when setting up a new bike. It seems to prolong the life of any such pivot points that are right in the line of fire off the rear wheel and it makes cleaning tight spaces around suspension parts easier because they don’t get as dirty. I’m not sure why the MTB engineers and designers have not incoporated small plastic fenders as part of the design, as moto design teams have been doing for decades. Amazing that we are just now seeing this on bikes.
I just got an SB150 a week ago. I’ve got three chunky, abusive rides on it so far and I agree with your assessment. It’s a really fun bike that mobs the rough downs, corners well, and can climb.
I made a plastic fender out of the top of a Rubbermaid roughneck storage container that zip ties to the seat tube and portion of the frame that is just behind the switch mechanism. It is doing a good job of keeping the muck off the switch mech and away from that little shelf under the switch mechanism that collected mud on your test bike.
I had a similar home made fender on my 5.5 and it did a good job of keeping the switch mech on that bike out of the line of fire from the rear tire. In that case, after 1200 miles with an occasion grease gun hit, the switch mech is in perfect shape.
I’m running a 2.5 Aggressor in the rear with no clearance issues, and it’s been muddy on my home trails lately.